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ebinmaine

Larger and/or hardened pins at rockshaft? Good or bad idea?

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ebinmaine

 

This question arises in particular because of the hole where the plow solid link is connected to the rock shaft on one of my C-160s and also Trina's 867.

Over the decades of usage that hole has become wallowed out some.

I'm wondering if it's okay to increase the size of that hole to a 7/16 just by rounding it out a little.

While doing that I would make a couple of solid links that had 7/16 pins or grade 8 bolts with solid shoulders.

 

 

Good idea? Am I just making a weaker link somewhere down the chain? Any thoughts?

 

 

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peter lena

@ebinmaine think if  I was going to round out a hole , put in a bronze bushing and firm things up ,a t pin mount point . just a thought , pete   

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kpinnc

And check the bolt holes where the tower mounts to the frame- very closely on the 867.

 

I've had more than a few towers  break right at or just above those bolt holes. 

 

But to answer your question: I've been thinking of something similar on the whatchamacallit build. Two links with a pin might solidify things and definitely help avoid misaligned binding.

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

check the bolt holes where the tower mounts to the frame- very closely on the 867

Great reminder. Thanks!

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, peter lena said:

bronze bushing and firm things

I figured on using a steel pin the same size as the hole. 

 

Bronze a better way to go, you think?

 

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peter lena

@ebinmaine  how about a same size roll pin , never seize , lube 3 lb hammer , pete 

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Handy Don

Steel on steel can last a long time if appropriately lubed. Even in a busy life, that joint will get only a few hundred cycles per year.

The shoulder bolt makes sense to distribute the force by avoiding threads-and using a Nylock nut would let you keep it nice and snug between good washers.

If you really want to "gild the lily", you'd balance the load by twinning the downlink so there was no twist to the interaction between the link and the rock shaft arm :).

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ebinmaine
49 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

twinning the downlink

Seems to me that solid link pin comes out of one side on one end and the other side at the other end so it isn't a straight shot but I could make up 2 links with a Z.  

 

 

 

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Handy Don
3 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Seems to me that solid link pin comes out of one side on one end and the other side at the other end so it isn't a straight shot but I could make up 2 links with a Z.  

 

 

 

If I had a welder (someday...) I'd consider welding the bolt heads (top and bottom?) to the link bar so the bolt is held perpendicular--easier than trying to simulate a clevis with twinned links as long as there's enough room to install/remove at both ends.

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Lee1977

Here is one I made.

SAM-1284.jpg

It's for a home made grader blade so it might not work with WH equipment. The fixed off set is the top end. Had to build an extended adapter at the bottom for the raised 312 as it didn't quite reach the ground affter I changed to 8" wheels.

Edited by Lee1977
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Handy Don

Jumping back onto the topic (oops), I would not use hardened hardware unless there was another sacrificial/replaceable part protecting the rock shaft from further wear.

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Lee1977

The wear is from 40 or 50 years of use don't think the hardness of the pin will make much difference. If you are worried about it use a little oil or grease. 

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