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RED-Z06

Only getting 12.8v

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RED-Z06

Last night i replaced the starter wire, hot wire, new battery, new chassis ground snd added a 2nd ground to the engine block.  Finally got to run it...it charges but im only getting a max of 12.8vdc, if got good ac current going into the reg/rec (the big heatsink cube), but irregular power out of it, has anyone used one of the reproduction units?

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pfrederi

Did you try running a direct ground from the body of the regulator to the neg term of the battery??  I have used one after market regulator it worked...

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RED-Z06
17 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Did you try running a direct ground from the body of the regulator to the neg term of the battery??  I have used one after market regulator it worked...

Yeah i put a jumper on it, no change there

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Gregor

I don't think there is any reason this wouldn't work. Whatever you get, FOLLOW THE WIRING DIRECTIONS, that come with it.  What AC voltage do you have from stator?

Voltage Regulator

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RED-Z06
16 minutes ago, Gregor said:

I don't think there is any reason this wouldn't work. Whatever you get, FOLLOW THE WIRING DIRECTIONS, that come with it.  What AC voltage do you have from stator?

Voltage Regulator

26.2vac at 3500 rpms

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Gregor

Page 8.10  in Kohler manual.  I don't know what amp system you have on a Kohler 241 I am assuming 3 amp.

 

170522112_Screenshot2021-12-11at16-08-58TP-2379K91-341ServManualpdf-TP-2379pdf.png.3de8820c91731a87c069cce3dfc812a9.png

 

 

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pfrederi

OK a 3 amp system would not have a regulator...  If  it has a regulator then 26 volts ac AT 3500 RPM\is too low....

reg.JPG

Edited by pfrederi
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RED-Z06

Well, let me cool off a bit...its 71 and 100% humidity..ill grab my nicer Meter and try all that 

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953 nut

You never have told us what tractor you are working on. Most Kohler engines have a 15 amp charging system but some don't. It would help to know the model number.

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Gregor
6 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

You never have told us what tractor you are working on. Most Kohler engines have a 15 amp charging system but some don't. It would help to know the model number.

I assumed it was this. Guess I don't really know. :confusion-shrug:

 

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RED-Z06

Yeah, C100.  I guess i figured the big heatsink regulator was the giveaway.

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RED-Z06

Alright, better test with a better meter...

 

12.4vdc at the dc plug, drops under load.

34.2vac at stator plugs.

 

Bad reg.

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Gregor

Do you have another tractor? Borrow the regulator?

 

Be sure to ground it.

Edited by Gregor

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kpinnc

I've used aftermarket rectifiers in a pinch with good results. Since you have good AC from the stator, you should get about 14+ VDC from the rectifier. Sometimes right after starting, you might see upwards of 16VDC, but it should settle back down pretty quick.

 

As has been said before- grounding the body of the rectifier is key. Maybe yours just needs contact points under the mounting bolts cleaned up?

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RED-Z06
6 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

I've used aftermarket rectifiers in a pinch with good results. Since you have good AC from the stator, you should get about 14+ VDC from the rectifier. Sometimes right after starting, you might see upwards of 16VDC, but it should settle back down pretty quick.

 

As has been said before- grounding the body of the rectifier is key. Maybe yours just needs contact points under the mounting bolts cleaned up?

I took a wire wheel and cleaned the reg body and hooked on a 16ga wire and took it to the neg side of the battery,not never flinched.  I might have hurt the reg with the bad battery that was on it...or just being old

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kpinnc
5 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

I took a wire wheel and cleaned the reg body and hooked on a 16ga wire and took it to the neg side of the battery,not never flinched.  I might have hurt the reg with the bad battery that was on it...or just being old

 

I bought 3 of the Onan rectifier clones a few years ago. Been using them for testing and what not. They work pretty well, and are cheap on Fleabay. 

51WVN4IsB6L._AC_SL1000_.jpg

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Achto
11 minutes ago, RED-Z06 said:

I might have hurt the reg with the bad battery that was on it...or just being old

 

These systems are not that sensitive. Old school solid state stuff, none of this new fangled mamby pamby computer crap. Unless you plugged the regulator into a wall socket or hooked 24vdc to to it, I doubt that you damaged it. My guess would be that it's time to try a different regulator.

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RED-Z06
6 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

 

I bought 3 of the Onan rectifier clones a few years ago. Been using them for testing and what not. They work pretty well, and are cheap on Fleabay. 

51WVN4IsB6L._AC_SL1000_.jpg

Ive used aftermarket command and onan regs for a few years, wasnt sure about this big behemoth of a reg though.

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pacer

Theres usually several used WH type on the bay at reasonable cost, last 2-3 I needed I got off the bay. With the aftermarket the connector will have to be rigged, not too big a deal but.....

Edited by pacer

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RED-Z06
9 minutes ago, pacer said:

Theres usually several used WH type on the bay at reasonable cost, last 2-3 I needed I got off the bay. With the aftermarket the connector will have to be rigged, not too big a deal but.....

What has to be changed?

Screenshot_20211211-202330_Chrome.jpg

Edited by RED-Z06

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pacer

.Well the one @kpinnc shows IS for an Onan and the one you show is the Kohler type that WH used and the conx point is different from the Onan.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Edited by pacer

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953 nut

 @RED-Z06, the R/R you have pictured should be the correct one for the C-100. The one @kpinnc has shown is for the later models where the R/R mounts in the flywheel cover and has cooling from the flywheel air flow.

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Gregor
11 hours ago, RED-Z06 said:

What has to be changed?

 

If your wires will not plug directly into the new R/R you will have to snip off the connector, and replace with simple 1/4" female spade crimp on terminal ends. Keep track of which wires go where.

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RED-Z06

New reg got her right...

20211216_193105.jpg

20211216_193033.jpg

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