K301 rebuild

[JimSraj 511]

Got the block and crank back from the machine shop yesterday and started to reassemble.  When I put the governor shaft in and torque the brass nut to the 10-12# spec the shaft doesn’t rotate. Should it? If not I’m guessing the riveted on ‘flag’ should be set to be parallel  to the face of the governor gear.  

Second question is about the crank bearing fit into the bearing plate. I noticed the bearing plate on this motor looks like someone may have misaligned a bearing and gouged the edges some. I cleaned It up with a very light sanding to remove the rough spots but didn’t go deep enough to remove all the gouges. The new bearing goes in easily. No pressing necessary. Is this ok or do I need to get a new bearing plate?  

Last question for now. When I attempt to torque the bearing plate bolts to the 35# spec 2 of the bolts won’t make the wrench click before I feel like I’m putting to much force on them. Lock washer started to cut the aluminum on the plate. Any ideas on why this would happen?  I’m thinking I should get new bolts for this and the head. 

 

[squonk 43,780]

Make sure the governor lever is going into the hole it's supposed to. also there is a shim on the shaft that the brass nut rides on. Make sure you didn't lose it.

 

I believe there should be copper washers not lock washers on the bearing plate bolts. @oldredrider ?

[JimSraj 511]

Thanks for the response.

There was no shim on the governor shaft when I took it apart but I’m pretty sure a P.O. has been in this engine before. So to infer an an answer to my question about that shaft moving freely, I’ll take it as a yes it should swing to and from the end of the governor gear??

copper washers sure would make more sense against that aluminum bearing plate. 

Any thoughts on the torque question?

 

[oldredrider 2,553]

Lock washers on the bearing plate are fine. Torque bolts evenly to 35 ft/lbs.

[JimSraj 511]

The problem is that two of the bolts don’t seem to want to torque to even 30# which I was doing before going to full torque at 35#. Can’t figute out why. 

[squonk 43,780]

Sounds like the bearing isn't fully seated into the plate yet. Tighten them slowly in a criss cross fashion.

[Gregor 4,847]

Are you certain you have the correct bolts?  Enough thread on the bolts?

[pfrederi 18,650]

Original Kohler part was a 3/8 x1" SEMS screw..  (preassembeled bolt with a lock washer on it...)

[JimSraj 511]

Yup, that’s what is in it now. I’m thinking I may need a thin steel washer behind the lock washer to stop it cutting into the aluminum so I can reach 35# torque. 

[JimSraj 511]

I put the bolts in by hand until they wouldn’t turn by hand. Switched to 3/8 drive ratchet and tightened until the lock washers were flat, criss crossing. Torque wrench tightened (criss crossing) to 20# then 30# then attempted 35#. Only reached 35# on 2 bolts on the same side of the crank. 

Thinking od adding a thin steel washer behind the lock washers. 

[Gregor 4,847]

It's been a while, but if I remember right, the bolt holes for the SEMS screws, go through to the inside if the block. They are NOT blind holes. What I don't remember specifically are the SEMS screws themselves. As long as the threads go all the way to the head, there should be no need for any additional washers. That is assuming of course that your bearings are FULLY installed on to the crank, and fully seated into their respective bosses. If they are not, you are in for a lot of trouble. With the 2 you have tight now, do you have any end play in the crank? .003 - .020.  Page 12-10 in the service manual.

[JimSraj 511]

Yes , I have .013 end play with the gasket and one shim in place. When I disassembled there were 2 shims and the gasket. I didn’t check the end play before unfortunately. Still learning.