Gary Ch 15 #1 Posted September 29, 2021 I have a '74 B 80 that I am restoring, not bad original condition at all, but the engine/flywheel housing will not stay on, Apparently there is a perimeter bracket it bolts to that is ? missing ? I'm lacking the part # for this part. I also need Part #103831, referred to as a "belt guard assembly", the long sheet metal panel that covers the drive belt. If anyone can help me out I would greatly appreciate it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #2 Posted September 29, 2021 Have you got the model and spec # on that motor? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 51,732 #3 Posted September 29, 2021 It should just fasten to the tabs/ears on the bearing plate? Check with A-Z tractors on the belt guard or put an ad in wanted. Should be a common one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #4 Posted September 29, 2021 W/H Model # 1-0140, Serial #60091, Engine Model K181S, Serial #6167671 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #5 Posted September 29, 2021 K181S-30461D Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #6 Posted September 29, 2021 Is what you are looking for in here? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #7 Posted September 29, 2021 The bearing plate must be missing, there are NO ears to attach to Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #8 Posted September 29, 2021 The bearing plate cannot be missing. That's what holds the crank bearing. Hence, "Bearing Plate" The bosses may be broken or stripped. I have re-tapped them to 5/16. You can do this if there is enough meat left. It is aluminum and taps pretty easily. Of course you can buy a new one for $240 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #9 Posted September 29, 2021 I'll just say it simply, its what #5 attaches/bolts/holds on to. I just tried to get a breakdown on the engine off of parts warehouse and the woman is so stupid that I got no where. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #10 Posted September 29, 2021 THAT would be the bearing plate. poke here for info Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #11 Posted September 29, 2021 Got it bud, and I THANK YOU OVERWHELMINGLY ! You didn't tell me, because you didn't know this, but you DID tell me ! My bearing plate is mounted incorrectly 90 degrees to the right, which is why the "mounting ears" are sideways, atop the starter. The top of this picture is the top of the engine, noting the bearing plate position ....(photo) I AM in southern Ohio, and people here aren't the brightest bulbs on the tree, I grew up here so I know.....:) THANK YOU AGAIN SO VERY MUCH, I'm learning 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #12 Posted September 29, 2021 2 minutes ago, Gary Ch said: If someone were to ask me, I'd have said, that's not possible. Shows you how much I know. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #13 Posted September 29, 2021 But I seem to be right, yes? Apparently you CAN mount this plate wrongly. You DID help me realize what I am looking at, and thats all that counts, you helped me see it, and I Thank You ! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #14 Posted September 29, 2021 Do you have a pic of your shroud? Maybe someone replaced the flywheel, added the electric start, and discovered that was the only way to get the shroud back on over the starter. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,537 #15 Posted September 29, 2021 (edited) wow thats a new one I guess anything is possible.It's a wonder it didn't overheat! Bob Edited September 29, 2021 by oldlineman Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #16 Posted September 29, 2021 Curiosity is killing me. Have you been running this thing this way? If so, DON"T ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #17 Posted September 29, 2021 My shroud, engine housing pictured, it matches up with the "sideway" ears so now I need to figure out (counter clockwise or clockwise) how to get the nut off that flywheel & get my gear puller out...... yeah, Bob, live & learn eh? I'm enjoying my Wheel Horse, & I may inherit the one my father bought 43 years ago, if the sale goes through, buying back my childhood home here........Thank You guys, I so appreciate you all. !!!!!!!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #18 Posted September 29, 2021 Is there a bump on the other side of the shroud to accommodate the starter? Is there a cut-out in you bearing plate to accommodate the starter? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #19 Posted September 29, 2021 4 minutes ago, Gary Ch said: (counter clockwise or clockwise) counter clockwise. Squarish section goes up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #20 Posted September 29, 2021 Oh, not running as of yet, I haven't gotten that far. I need parts, mule team pulley housing front of the axle was missing, which someone already sent me on here, , crankcase was empty When I got it, I bought a new Kohler air cleaner and painted its housing, Troy Belt Red, along with the flywheel housing, I still need: drive belt guard # 103831, the flywheel (4 screw) "screen" outside flywheel, a mule team belt # 102607, & (3) new blades, eventually to get another nice 36" deck to replace this rusty one.......maybe at our show in June ! I'm looking forward to meeting a lot of you guys there.........I am SO JAZZED having this mower ! I got a plug, gas tank spring, gas line, had to connect both the throttle & choke cables back again, buy a battery,(paint the tray first) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #21 Posted September 29, 2021 Yes and yes for both, the starter notch is at the bottom of the bearing plate right now, showing exactly what I thought, its mounted 90 degrees off, and the housing has its starter notch as well, Thank You for the removal direction of the flywheel nut, I'll need to really get some torque on that baby now to remove it. Thank You for all of your help man, you're a lifesaver ! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #22 Posted September 29, 2021 AND, that answers the question, will I remove the flywheel to repaint it black? YES, I have to now! For another reason, gives me the excuse to strip it of rust and paint it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gregor 4,847 #23 Posted September 29, 2021 Is a 10 HP a big lock? I don't know, but if it is, and it has balance gears, many would advise you to remove them as long as you have the bearing plate removed anyhow. Maybe someone smarter than I will chime in, and advise. Whatever parts you may need for the motor, I'll bet @richmondred01can fix you up. Click on his name and message him. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gary Ch 15 #24 Posted September 29, 2021 Now, flywheel is off easily with my gear puller, now whats needed is either removing the bearing plate from the crankshaft.... is there an easy way? OR removing the head and swiveling it & then having to replace the head gasket....... It will NOT swivel into the correct position without either removing the engine head heat shrinks, (then a new head gasket) or removing the fragile expensive to replace aluminum bearing plate from the crank. Is there a ring inside/behind the rubber gasket at the bearing plate on the crankshaft that releases the bearing plate? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites