Cant beat a dead horse

[Jimdad85 12]

Still new to this. Shes a '64 1054. I have to re wire her. Id like to keep it stock parts but if its easier another way id love some pointers. Im ok with 12vdc so thats not an issue. Never saw a belt start before. Everyday i fall more in love. Shes going to be a puller if anyone wanted to know

[pfrederi 17,146]

Based on color the S/G is not original.  There have been major mods to your tractors electrical system.  You can download  Manual and wiring diagram here.

 

  You could either make it works as is or go back to original setup but you would need to replace the regulator with a saddle mount install an old style push button starter switch and significant rewiring.  Your tractor your call.

[Jimdad85 12]

Im thinking id like to keep it how it is unless someone saw an easier way. Im going to eliminate the key and put a push button back. Im going to replace the existing wire and clean up the connections. I just dont know what does what. The cylinder the battery hooks into...the square box...idk. theres an ignition toggle that runs a hot feed tothe motor..the only wire other than a big ground..id be willing to diagram it if someone had the time to walk me through it

[oliver2-44 8,852]

Love the 953/1054. Keep it original.  But that poor horse is probable feeling sick with those green parts Heal him up quickly with some red paint asap. Any red paint will do. 

This is an old style solenoid.  Their rugged and work great.  If it doesn't work you can gently uncurl that top lead, clean and rotate the contacts inside. close it back up by gently tapping the lid curl back down and seal it with a small bead of silicone.

  Wala, just like new again.

[Jimdad85 12]

Ok great!! Ive always loved red tractors lol so that wont be a problem. The solenoid just tells what current to go where and when?? How do i test it. I have a volt meter. Also how to test s/g? Ater its red of course

[pfrederi 17,146]

Take a look at the color wire diagram in the link above.

 

As far as testing... Can you crank the engine??..if so solenoid passes and at least part of the S/G passes.  When it is running are you seeing about 14 volts DC at the battery??  If so rest of the S/G and regulator are OK. 

 

Square box is voltage regulator round thing the solenoid. 

 

I you keep the solenoid you will not need a heavy duty starter button switch (Think old high beam switch in cars).  A light duty momentary push button will work.

 

14ga wire is good for everything except Battery to solenoid, solenoid to S/G.and battery neg to ground.  There you need at least 6ga wire.

[Jimdad85 12]

Does not crank..no key..dead battery..not sure how to jump anything. Not like these newer ones with a starter lol. Two leads on s/g a heavier wire on one lug and a lighter one on the other. Not sure that the wiring diagram has a box...

[Achto 26,546]

23 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said:

Two leads on s/g a heavier wire on one lug and a lighter one on the other.

 

There are 2 markings by the terminals on the S/G "A" = armature, "F" = field. With the body of the S/G connected to ground touch a positive wire to the "A" terminal. The S/G should spin.

Edited September 27, 2021 by Achto

[Jimdad85 12]

Ok..so armateur turns the s/g..im assuming field would be the charging output

[Achto 26,546]

9 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said:

im assuming field would be the charging output

 

No. When you apply power to the armature the S/G works as an electric motor. Remove power after the engine starts and your S/G works as a generator. The armature is still positive as a generator. The regulator sends a ground to the field to in a sense turn the charging on and off.

 

34 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said:

Not sure that the wiring diagram has a box..

 

The box or regulator is represented on top of the starter/generator on the diagram.

Edited September 27, 2021 by Achto

[Jimdad85 12]

Theres just so many wires!!!. Im just going to send it!!!

[Achto 26,546]

Follow the wire diagram and all will turn out well. If you wish to keep the starter solenoid you will have to make alterations to the diagram.

 

Battery "+" to one of the large terminals on the solenoid. S/G "A" terminal to the other large terminal on the solenoid. 

Starter button to one of the small terminals on the solenoid. 

May have to ground the other small terminal on the solenoid. This is not always necessary so try with out first, it depends on how your solenoid is designed. Make sure the body of the solenoid has ground.

Edited September 27, 2021 by Achto

[Jimdad85 12]

Fortunately for me it seems that everything is already wired in. It gets a little questionable with wires coming from switches and the key and all that stuff but I think that's just your basic 12 volt if I have any more questions on that I will certainly be posting them. I will have lights running on it again I'm not sure if I want to put them behind the grill or where but I'm at least going to wire the switch in at if there were lights. My basic goal was to just test everything and make sure it all worked I'm guessing if I just switch out the key ignition it's actually a key starter there is a pole lever style twitch that is labeled ignition and the key is labeled starter and then there's an empty light bulb socket that says charge but there is nothing in there so I'll put in a some sort of interrupter switch for the starter where the key is wired up as it is and go from there thank you for all the help

[pfrederi 17,146]

"charge socket" is for the idiot light (it is a unique socket as to wiring) 

[Jimdad85 12]

It would be neat to wire that in...i think its on a diagram that was shared...its just a bulb tho?

[Pullstart 59,651]

1 hour ago, Achto said:

 

There are 2 markings by the terminals on the S/G "A" = armature, "F" = field. With the body of the S/G connected to ground touch a positive wire to the "A" terminal. The S/G should spin.

 

59 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said:

Ok..so armateur turns the s/g..im assuming field would be the charging output

I’ve been taught that if the test on the A coil spins it, while spinning full tilt move the + wire to the F terminal and see if it stops dead (which it should).  That’s the way to test the charging circuit.

[Jimdad85 12]

Im reading "if i choose to keep starter solenoid" can i delete that?? Thats the only thing i dont see on the diagram. If i can remove it then i believe i can follow the stock diagram.

[Achto 26,546]

2 hours ago, Jimdad85 said:

If i can remove it then i believe i can follow the stock diagram.

 

If you install this switch or one similar, you can delete the starter solenoid.

 

Here are some sources for a heavy duty starter switch.

 

https://www.steinertractor.com/MFS140-Push-Button-Starter-Switch-Manifold-Heater-Switch-Gear-Shift-Lever-Activated-Starter-Switch?gclid=Cj0KCQjw18WKBhCUARIsAFiW7Jze3x-1DovKZO55wRxssEFP8inS0ynmaDPbZX-oajnrfmVbfGGEzuYaAuncEALw_wcB

 

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/tisco-starter-switch-dr405c?cm_vc=-10005

 

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_S67908?impressionRank=15

 

 

[Jimdad85 12]

Thank you. Why couldnt i use a 20a doorbell style?? I mean with the solenoid i can. Why not without? What does the solenoid do? 

[pfrederi 17,146]

25 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said:

Thank you. Why couldnt i use a 20a doorbell style?? I mean with the solenoid i can. Why not without? What does the solenoid do? 

 

Because an S/G when cranking draws big amperage 60 + amps...A solenoid can handle that  a door bell switch no.  That is why you tractor ordinarily came with a heavy duty push button switch.

 

I saw your pics on the puller section.  I assume a lot of the excess wires on your solenoid are related to the winch.   What are you trying to do here.  Save things , make a puller strip down and start over???

[Jimdad85 12]

The plan is to strip it down to the minimum. Winch is off and the wires that go with it. I plan to have/keep the light switch, ignition plunger, starter button, charge light, headlights. I will be removing the hydro pump and cylander for the lift

[pfrederi 17,146]

Then get one of the heavy duty switches Achto listed and wire it according the diagram in the link back at the beginning.  Not very complex at all.  Loose the solenoid. The regulator you have will do the job  (assumimg it is in good condition)

[Jimdad85 12]

The only thing that concerns me it the lack of posts on my regulator vs. the diagram.. 

[Jimdad85 12]

Ok also, they said that this is a 15hp briggs...any truth in that?

[Achto 26,546]

4 minutes ago, Jimdad85 said:

The only thing that concerns me it the lack of posts on my regulator vs. the diagram.. 

 

Your regulator should be exactly like the diagram. The wire from the "A" terminal on the S/G goes to a terminal located under the regulator.