pfrederi 18,711 #26 Posted September 10, 2021 U1 L&G batteries come in U1L and U1R. You want the U1L (determines which side the positive terminal is on.) The U1L should work on your Electro with out having to move any wires. (assuming some previous owner didn't change something.) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregorpb 4 #27 Posted September 10, 2021 Glad I asked! Looking at the U1L batteries, it still looks like their terminals are nut and bolt connectors. In the pics I have of the Electro, the terminals look like standard car post battery terminals (see attached). Guess I'll find out when I pick it up, but I'm hoping to have a battery with me. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,711 #28 Posted September 10, 2021 Electros originally came with Grp22NF batteries. The had top terminals and used clamps as in your picture. You could use a modern Group 22 NF battery but they are pretty pricey. Until you are sure the tractor will be useable I would go with an Group U1L battery. You will have to put some shims in the battery box (or get a newer small batter box designed for L&G batteries). While not pretty and not a long term solution you can put a 1/4" bolt through the clamp and the battery terminal. To test out your new machine. (just make sure the Positive clamp/terminal are not touching anything) Also leave the negative terminal disconnected until the last step of hooking things up. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregorpb 4 #29 Posted September 10, 2021 Makes sense. Many thanks! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ohiofarmer 3,379 #30 Posted September 11, 2021 (edited) When it comes to testing out new to me equipment, my go to battery is a big ole Diesel truck battery size one million. That way it's quick and easy to let all the magic smoke out . No, not really. What I do is use a big battery all right, but just put an ATC fuse holder in line with some jumper cables i made from a heavy appliance cord. those cords usually have round brass terminals on them that will directly fit to some parts of your tractor , or just use a jumper wire. I start out with 5 or ten amps to detect a short , and work up eventually to a thirty amp when I start the tractor. I figure, why buy a lawn and garden battery at the end of a season when it will be out of its ninety day warranty in the spring? This is an old trick that motorcycle people use with all those wires running together in tight places. A dead short will produce a snap that you can hear, a thermal overload will just quietly melt the fuse. The non running tractors i usually get most often have issues with loose terminals at the voltage regulator or the ammeter. That means no crank no start. I picked up a C-160 for $300 that had electrical issues easily solved by using the simplified wiring diagram available on this forum. Guys on here often replace all the wiring when they buy a new to them tractor. Edited September 11, 2021 by ohiofarmer Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gregorpb 4 #31 Posted September 12, 2021 Super advice. Thank you! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
keitholdcar 17 #32 Posted September 23, 2021 That mower deck is for a Sears,(Roper) tractor.I have one on a 10XL.Otherwise known as a Sears Suburban.They are cast aluminum,and very tender,and hard to find without the front broken out of it.To change the belt you have to pop a little snap ring off the shaft,slide the splined shaft sideways,and slip the old belt off and the new one on.Also a real Rube Goldberg affair to engage/tension the belt.Not one of their better ideas. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
