Bentoolong 94 #1 Posted August 14, 2021 I recently acquired this C-120 and found that I have a bad hub and axle. I think the hub is worn to the point where it is not salvageable by me. I'd like to find a new 1-1/8" hub and use that. The axle is another matter. A PO installed a large bolt that broke off in the hub. I was unable to remove it until I did some drilling on the left over piece. I got the hub off and found this carnage. The axle must be harder than the hub because I mic'd the axle and it is within a few thou of 1.125 in most locations. The pics tell the rest of the story. I'd like to take a file and flatten the shaft as much as possible. The keyway is another matter. I'm not sure on the length of the "keys" on these axles but I am hoping with a little work I could refit one and then maybe reinforce the side with some JB weld as well as add another set screw. I don't weld or have access to a machine shop. Is this a good plan? I don't care to split the tranny and install another axle. I know others have had the same issues and I'm open to other suggestions. Thanks Bentoolong What size are the keys on this model? 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,655 #2 Posted August 14, 2021 9 hours ago, Bentoolong said: Is this a good plan? I don't care to split the tranny and install another axle. JB Weld is not a good answer. the replacement of an axle may seem a bit overwhelming but with the guidance of @stevasaurus and others you can do it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oldlineman 1,450 #3 Posted August 14, 2021 Ya, I have never opened up one of these trannys, but that would be the first one if it was mine! Watching all the videos here I am sure with any help you need from the experts you can replace that axle and have a much better ending! Bob Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,913 #4 Posted August 14, 2021 I would say if you need to use this tractor sooner than later, find another transmission. Then when you find an axle you'll have a nice project and then a spare transmission or then sell it to someone else who needs to get his horse going in a hurry. If this tractor is just another for the collection, find an axle and enjoy the aroma of gear oil and open it up! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rmaynard 14,893 #5 Posted August 14, 2021 As the pictures show, there is enough torque at the junction of the hub/axle/key to tear up a hardened steel axle. JB Weld would not stand a chance. Pull the axle and replace it or find another transmission. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bentoolong 94 #6 Posted August 14, 2021 Thanks everyone. This is not a tractor I need running/moving/working. I just like working on them. The longer it takes to fix the better I like it. Of course, I'd like to keep expenses reasonable because I'll sell this tractor when I have it done. As I stated, I haven't heard it run yet. I was planning on doing that this week but we lost power for over 3 days and that has complicated my plans. I'd like to get it running first and assess the engine. I'll try the trans to make sure it works (at least forward and reverse). It needs some oil because its very low. If I feel the engine and tranny are salvageable. I'll decide what direction to take on the axle. Is it easy to remove the hydro unit and replace the axle assembly and then bolt the hydro back in place. I sure do love a challenge. Bentoolong. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,913 #7 Posted August 14, 2021 A 12 pt socket, a few bolts and the hydro unit comes right off but it's heavy! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Handy Don 10,594 #8 Posted August 14, 2021 2 hours ago, squonk said: A 12 pt socket, a few bolts and the hydro unit comes right off but it's heavy! Startlingly heavy for something not much bigger than a gallon can of paint! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
stevasaurus 22,229 #9 Posted August 14, 2021 After reading this thread and what Ben said, I would file that axle, JB weld the key and put the hub back on. Then I would get it running and sell it to someone that will fix it with love. The axle and hub are toast anyway so let the buyer know. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
edgro 676 #10 Posted August 14, 2021 This is what i did. It would have been smarter to cut the new keyway on the opposite side of the axle. Weld very slow with cooling off periods. Do not get axle hot. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Jeff-C175 7,195 #11 Posted August 14, 2021 (edited) /broken record mode on/ I always like to add that one can not get the setscrews tight enough with any type of open end or combination wrench. They should be torqued to 30 ft lbs. For this you will need an 8 point socket (3/8"). ALWAYS use NEW setscrews! (order a half dozen and keep some spares) Always drill and tap a second set screw hole 90° round from the first. NOT opposite! the hub will just 'rock' on the two set screws if you do that. After drilling and tapping the new set screw hole, grind a FLAT around the hole for the jam nut to bear against. Don't do this and you will be sorry! Maybe not necessary, but use new jam nuts too. Some blue Loctite on the jam nuts is a good idea. Instead of JB WELD, use LOCTITE 660 if you need to fill some gaps. Follow the product instructions to the letter! https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/retaining-compounds/loctite_660.html While you've got the hubs off, install new axle seals One more detail... re-torque the setscrews after a few hours of work. After that an annual check is a good idea. /broken record mode off/ Edited August 14, 2021 by Jeff-C175 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
