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uglyblue66

My electric wheel horse E 141 Could use some "help"

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uglyblue66
Posted (edited)

I thought I would at least get started here by posting pics of the 2 recent purchases and ask a few questions about the E-141

What I was hoping to learn,was if there is a troubleshooting guide for the E -141? I know GE has a service manual with trouble shooting flow charts and info.I did find a schematic and parts break downs which is a big help.

BUT long story short,due to a accident related brain injury  I am a bit slow to figure things out and pictures help. :)

The B-145 is the same as a GE Electrac E-14 so my book on ge's will be a big help for it.

But I think the E 141 is a bit more scarce and plus it is a single speed PM motor,easier to bring back.

I have done some work to it since the photo was taken, Replaced rear tires with good used, new bearings in the motor,it runs, new pulleys.BUT having issues with belt length that is about to drive me nuts. Original belt is Almost perfect fit but stretched  a bit. 60 inch belt to short,61 inch to long. :bitch:Any who,I also got a really nice charger for the E 141 from a fellow in indiana. so that is covered.

Now more questions.

1,what does the correct hitch look like on the back of the E 141? I would like to be able to put a brinley hitch on it perhaps but can't find a photo of that set up on a electric.

2, Will a push blade from a late 60's  854  horse fit this E 141? It has the Unidrive transmission so I am thinking it will.

Ok, I will stop for now.:) thanks for letting me in the door!

 

 

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Edited by uglyblue66
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ZXT
Posted (edited)

Welcome to the forum! Not too many E tractors around here - always cool seeing another show up! 

 

I'm sure others will be along soon to give more info!

Edited by ZXT

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gwest_ca

Welcome to Red Square.

Gates replace the 107120 belt with a 6962 or Napa 5L620W which is 5/8" x 62" long.

Wheel Horse lists the belt as 107120 - (B/5L x 61.35" or 5/8" x 61.35")

 

Here is what we have on the E-141. The search results are mixed up so look through them all.

Any with the OM is a D&A file. The "A" is the attachment list for that model year.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=e-141&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

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roadapples

:WRS:

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SylvanLakeWH

:text-welcomeconfetti:

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gwest_ca
11 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Here is what we have on the E-141. The search results are mixed up so look through them all.

Any with the OM is a D&A file. The "A" is the attachment list for that model year.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=e-141&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

Linked the 8-1570 or 81570 and 07-30EC01 charger for the E-141 to tractor files above.

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uglyblue66
11 hours ago, gwest_ca said:

Welcome to Red Square.

Gates replace the 107120 belt with a 6962 or Napa 5L620W which is 5/8" x 62" long.

Wheel Horse lists the belt as 107120 - (B/5L x 61.35" or 5/8" x 61.35")

 

Here is what we have on the E-141. The search results are mixed up so look through them all.

Any with the OM is a D&A file. The "A" is the attachment list for that model year.

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=e-141&quick=1&type=downloads_file

 

Garry

So it is a oddball! Oh boy fun fun fun.

 

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Mike in NC

Welcome Uglyblue!!  Glad you joined! The guys around here will be able to help you!

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Achto

:WRS:

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uglyblue66
Posted (edited)

Well thank yawl for the welcome. here is a couple pics of the E 141.. 1 of it's "brain" as it is called by Wheel Horse,  exposed and the second 1 of the 62 inch belt and new pulleys. a 61 inch belt is to tight to function and would not slip.The original old belt is obviously a closer fit but is old. I have tried to figure out how to make this work correctly,and every change makes for a chain reaction.I am thinking a slightly smaller drive pulley or trans pulley might make it work a bit better but? Any ideas?

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Edited by uglyblue66
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gwest_ca

That belt is too loose to drive properly. Perhaps the pedal return spring on the other side is weak and not tensioning the belt properly.

 

In order for the transmission pulley to stop so you can shift gears the belt guard must be on the tractor. The guard forces the pedal down belt slack to the motor pulley so it can slip.

 

Garry

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uglyblue66
Posted (edited)
28 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

That belt is too loose to drive properly. Perhaps the pedal return spring on the other side is weak and not tensioning the belt properly.

 

In order for the transmission pulley to stop so you can shift gears the belt guard must be on the tractor. The guard forces the pedal down belt slack to the motor pulley so it can slip.

 

Garry

I will put the belt guard back on but for the pics and for the sake of showing my issue,I left it off. The light colored idler pulley is  the clutched pulley and even using my hand to force it back a bit more,it actually will get looser instead of tighter. the spring is pulling back as far as it can.I thought about putting a stronger 1 on until I worked it by hand and it did not tighten the 62 inch  belt.

Just a weird issue. The pulleys are the exact same size as the 1 's removed,they were all rusted and damaged beyond use.Amazing what around a 1/2 inch will do to a system. The 61 inch belt I got in the mail yesterday off ebay is to tight.

Sliding the electric drive motor forward a tad,moves the hood latch forward on the left side, putting spacers between the trans and frame messes up the rear fender mount. just hair pulling.I keyed  61.5 inch belt,I know it is 61.35 but I thought a .5 would be more realistic to find on google,nothing.

 

Edited by uglyblue66

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gwest_ca

That belt looks like a B-59 intended for an industrial application where belt tensions are constant.

I would be trying a trusted Gates or Napa green replacement for the application.

 

Garry

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uglyblue66

Ok,I need to know if there are new "terminals" available to go in the black connector that hooks to the key switch. I guess I could dig up a old wiring harness and try to salvage some but would rather just get pigtails or whatever to repair this connector.

But the key switch acted funny and I had trouble getting the connector loose and when I did,the terminals on the switch were rusty.I cleaned them with the blasting cabinet but the actual terminals that connect to them in the harness are broke and don't apply any tension to hold them or connect them.

 

I spoke to the fellow at The Electric Tractor Store, https://www.freerangeelectric.com/.

He did show to have a "brain" in stock but when I inquired he removed the link.

BUT he said he repairs them in house and that I could send mine in to have it repaired.

so if I can't figure it out being something else, I might do that.

still don't have a solution on the belt issue.

 

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gwest_ca

NOTE

I am now thinking what is below is completely wrong. There are conflicting parts lists on the model.

 

The ignition switch for this model is very common. Click on the picture in the link to see the connector.

 

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uglyblue66
Posted (edited)

That is how my switch is reading,continuity  is on 3 terminals with the switch turned on.  The s terminal has no connector in the wiring harness for it.  I am going to dig around today and see if I can find a old wiring harness to get the terminals out it.Thanks for the link sir!

HUM< with that part number,I found this on ebay!

May be a easier solution!

https://www.ebay.com/itm/112475723300?epid=932678247&hash=item1a30135624:g:b7wAAOSwYXVYzUCw

Edit again,just bought,I want this thing to work!

Edited by uglyblue66

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uglyblue66

Well, I put the pig tail on this morning and the MOTOR starts and works correctly!
 ME  gots it ! I am tickled.

Now to move along to the metal components that are missing,and deal with the belt issue and blah blah blah.BUT at least I know the machine will WORK!

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8ntruck

You might try a slightly larger diameter (by 1/2" maybe?) idler pulley to help with your belt delema.  The larger idler pulley would  keep the spring compressed and would take up a little belt length as the belt blends around the larger diameter.

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uglyblue66

I have been working on battery boxes,I guess that is what you would call them,or battery racks. Thanks to the parts list pictures,and some web pictures and rust marks on the frame and some measurements of battery's I am coming along ok on them. I hope the wheel horse God's don't smite me for using angle iron and flat plate on most of it to make them as bending 10 gauge without a brake is about impossible. I will post a pic when I get them red and bolted on. All of the battery support brackets,shelfs and stuff  is or was GONE when i got the machine.. Even a part that held the rear fenders up from the transmission was gone to.That was the first piece I had to make for the back end before I could make the rest of the box.

I have the back 1 about done except for paint, the top shelf for the front is done except for drilling holes and paint.The bottom battery shelf or rack,I will be welding it up tomorrow. The front and back of it have 3/8ths slots almost the width of the  rack so it can be slid out on rollers bolted to the frame.  I will measure and try to cut those slots with the plasma cutter.

I am not "restoring " this machine,at least not any time soon,I just want it fully functional. I am concerned if i make it to "pretty" people will think I fabricated it instead of it being a actual wheel horse model.

Edited by uglyblue66

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8ntruck

Those electric Wheel Horses typically have rust from the corrosive nature of the batteries.  

 

I wonder if the pickup truck box coating products would help with corrosion resistance?

Edited by 8ntruck
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uglyblue66

I don't know, I will just be painting the parts I am making as I will be using AGM batterys that are sealed and don't typically leak and drool like standard batterys.

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uglyblue66

Well here is some progress. I am sure there are some errors in the design as all I had to go by was some internet photos and the pictures from the parts manuals you folks have here on the site. I took some artistic libertys with a couple things and that slot was a pain to cut for the bolts to be in on the bottom battery tray.There are rollers attached to the frame and the tray has a bolt on each side to remove and then slide the tray 1 side or the other to service the battery's.

The rod on the front of the top tray has 2 cotter pins in it instead of a threaded nut on 1 end. Simpler.

The back tray, the lip facing the rear of the tractor on the diagram showed to have 1 bolt holding the back on it,I used 2.

The vertical piece on the right side of the trans-axle,I had to make that to.it was missing.I just mirrored the other side.

The front bottom tray will get paint tomorrow.We are getting the last rain from the hurrycaine at the moment.

 

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Edited by uglyblue66
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uglyblue66

Well I drove it today.Got 6 batterys in it and drove it about 15 minutes.That annoying alarm buzzer let me know I was over drawing going up a hill in 3rd high so I had to back it down 1 to make the "Brain"  box happy. The charger,well I plug it in and the green light blinks.

So apparently the batterys are purty well charged up.

I will get a pic or 2 up.IT is not put back together.I sat on top of a piece of rubber ,no seat,no fenders, no hood,no belt guard,no ----- .  I was riding the frame around. most of the noise was bouncing and squeaking.

Pto relay is not kicking in.But I do have the negative loose from the plug and just hanging as there is a issue with the socket,sparked or something at some point in it's life and roasted the screw holding the wire in so I may have to replace the pto jack,which is literally a drying outlet same as GE used on the Elec Trak.

EDIT< while trying to reinstall the rear fender and a seat,I realized there had to be something missing.So I looked at the handy dandy information here on the site and yep,according the picture there is a fender support bracket I will have to make. I knew something wasn't quite right.

Edited by uglyblue66

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uglyblue66

Sadly the seat is to large.

DSC00034.JPG

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uglyblue66

BUT  I will find something suitable that is not rusted out and torn up.

I don't understand the battery situation to some degree. the battery's I am using must be taller than the originals.

Different type I know for sure but I had no idea there was a difference in how tall they were.

 

I had to put the old belt that was on the machine when I got it. It seems to pull and work fine but I had hoped to replace it with new.

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Edited by uglyblue66

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