IthacaJeff 151 #1 Posted June 8, 2009 WH'ers: I'm in the process of removing and replacing the PTO clutch disc from my 310-8, but when I got to the last step I could not figure out how to get the last piece off. The piece is #40 in the diagram below. Any advice? Also, the mating surface on the PTO pully (#37) is really rough, almost like it has bumps of built-up and burned on epoxy. Is this normal? Should I remove it? How? Finally, should I grease up the roller bearings inside the PTO pully" Thanks, Jeff in Ithaca Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Dave 0 #2 Posted June 8, 2009 Remove 4 ea of item 41 (takes a 3/8" socket), remove 2 ea of items 42 and the sleeve bushing will (should) pull right off the crankshaft. As far as the rough stuff on item #37. it's probably clutch material from item #43. Scrape it off and smooth it down with some emery cloth or sandpaper. The clutch has gotten hot at some point and some of the material melted onto the clutch surface. Look at clutch plate #43 and I'll bet it's roughed up also. You may be able to replace just the clutch lining and rivets which is far cheaper than the whole disk with the lining. When you put it back together make sure you grease item #38 with some white lithium grease. Good luck, Dave Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IthacaJeff 151 #3 Posted June 8, 2009 Dave, Thanks for the info. . . but I'm stuck on the "sleeve bushing should just slide right off the crankshaft." The 3/8 bolts and mini-plates (#'2 41 & 42) came right off, but the bushing (#40) will not pull off. I've got a used replacement friction plate (all of part #43, including the clutch lining), so I'm planning on replacing the whole thing. The bushing (#40) has a grooved end in which the clutch plate fits. That is a bit rusty, but the clutch plate does wiggle. The bushing and the crankshaft have a keyway in it. . . . . . do you think that could be the problem? Is more force the answer to pull off the bushing? Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Old Dave 0 #4 Posted June 8, 2009 The key may be your problem, I don't recall either one of mine having a key in them. If you can wiggle the clutch plate try pulling on it and wiggling it off. You might try putting a prybar behind it and working it off one side at a time. The only thing that is behind the clutch plate is the cast iron pulley that's attached to the crankshaft and they pretty indestructible. You may have some rust under the bushing on the end of the crank. When you get it off knock the rust off if that's the problem and grease it up before you put it back. I've never had a problem getting either one of mine off and I've owned the Charger 10 for 31 yrs. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TT-(Moderator) 1,129 #5 Posted June 8, 2009 The bearing race (#40) does not need to come off to change the PTO clutch friction disc. Keep wiggling and trying to rotate the disc while pulling outward and it should slide off. If the bearing race is bad and needs replaced put a little heat to it and/or try tapping around the outside and on the end. Liberal amounts of penetrant sprayed back in to the keyway in the crankshaft won't hurt either. :thumbs2: Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IthacaJeff 151 #6 Posted June 10, 2009 Thanks, gents. . . The friction plate was somewhat rusted on, leading me to believe that the plate was somehow being held in place by the bushing. Some good jerkin' and prying and some lube got 'er off. Replaced the plate, got the PTO back and working, and hooked up the mower deck for the first time in 4 years. . . when the center spindle finally gave way to serious stress cracks. This spring my eldest son (14) took a mechanical drawing class in high school and the young teacher started teaching some of the kid to weld. The most exciting/fun thing my kid has done! Anyway, the teacher was looking for some projects and my son "donated" the mower deck to see what could be done. Damage way beyond novice capabilities, but the teacher cut out a star-shaped plate (if you've got a rear discharge deck you know what I mean) and welded that sucker over the whole area and cut out new holes for the spindle and bolts. The underside was a mess, so when reinstalling the spindle I used JB Weld as a large "washer" to level out the spindle. The darn thing works. . . but for how long I dunno! Jeff Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
