wheel horse 417-8 carburator

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

Hello again, I am trying to get this poor old wheel horse 417-8 back to running without having to have it on full choke and kind of restore it back to working condition. does anyone have any suggestions on the carburetor (I know that I can rebuild it). the previous owner left this poor old wheel horse out to the elements and from the cracks in the carb it must have gotten filled with water from rain and it must have frozen and expanded cracking it a little bit and the float bool is almost completely rusted out and the idle screw and the air to fuel mix screw is stuck. I already have a carb rebuild kit but I wanted to wait and see what you guys recommend I try and do with the original carb, should I try and repair it with LB weld or just replace it altogether?

 

Edited May 17, 2021 by Jonnyrocket132

[ebinmaine 63,137]

Situation like this I think pictures would be necessary for a proper answer. If the aluminum cast body of the carburetor is actually cracked I would personally not rebuild it.

 

Best advice would be to get a used one from Lincoln at A to Z and rebuild that.

 

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

I am new here, can you post a link to it?

[ebinmaine 63,137]

1 minute ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

I am new here, can you post a link to it?

 

 

 

 

Here it is. I always call him. His website is good but he's very busy and sometimes it's not completely updated.

 

 

https://a-ztractor.com/

 

 

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

thank you,

that carb is a bit on the pricy side, there is only two very small cracks on the side of it but is enough to where if I leave the fuel shutoff valve on the tank that I have connected to the hood (because even after I bought a brand new fuel pump it wasn't able to draw fuel from the original fuel tank) it will leak all the gas out and you end up with an empty fuel tank the next day. but that might be repairable with JB weld I think?

[ebinmaine 63,137]

58 minutes ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

thank you,

that carb is a bit on the pricy side, there is only two very small cracks on the side of it but is enough to where if I leave the fuel shutoff valve on the tank that I have connected to the hood (because even after I bought a brand new fuel pump it wasn't able to draw fuel from the original fuel tank) it will leak all the gas out and you end up with an empty fuel tank the next day. but that might be repairable with JB weld I think?

Can you post a pic of it Johnny?

 

Really the worst you can do is try it. Might work. Might not. You'll only be out some time and the price of the JB weld. 

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

I will try if my wifi allows

[oliver2-44 8,852]

4 hours ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

carb it must have gotten filled with water from rain and it must have frozen and expanded cracking it a little bit

 

the float bool is almost completely rusted out

 

the idle screw and the air to fuel mix screw is stuck.

 

I'll agree with EB and say pictures would sure help, and I would check with A-Z Tractor if he has a good used one, or at least a replacement float bowl,

with that said you don't have anything to loose trying to revive your existing carb.

1st. priority, clean the cracks with something like brake cleaner, let it air out a few hours (the chemical in brake cleaner will soak in the metal pores and can act like a release agent for some epoxies) fill the cracks with JB Weld.  

2nd. for it to work the adjustment screws need to get freed up. Throw it in a gallon paint can with lid full of diesel or kerosene and set it in the sun.  Then every day try to GENTLY move the brass screws. if they move, wiggle them back and forth a little bit and put it back in the can to repeat. 

3rd. while I would try to find a new float bowl for long term use. I have 2  carbs that have pitting holes repaired with JB weld in service for 2 & 4 years. One bowl is aluminum and one is steel. 

 

Here is pictures of a 3rd bowl i have repaired as a spare. The aluminum bowl had pitting tiny pitting all the way around the bottom.  So it has a ring of JB weld all the way around the bottom. 

 

  

[roadapples 6,981]

You would easily find a carb at the Big Show. You're not that far away...

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

Update,

I was able to repair the cracks and it doesn't leak any fuel now but it acts like it wants to run away

[ebinmaine 63,137]

9 minutes ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

Update,

I was able to repair the cracks and it doesn't leak any fuel now but it acts like it wants to run away

If you start it and leave it alone does it run right up to the 3600 RPM governor?

 

If you adjust the idle or high RPM mixture screws does it change anything?

 

Is the linkage bound up?

 

Is the governor set correctly?

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

If you start it and leave it alone does it run right up to the 3600 RPM governor?

 

If you adjust the idle or high RPM mixture screws does it change anything?

 

Is the linkage bound up?

 

Is the governor set correctly?

sorry I was working on it all afternoon and the idle or the high rpm screws barley changed anything and the linkages are moving as smooth as butter

 

I don't know the exact RPM but it revs up way higher than it should when I have the throttle all the way down at idle 

 

I had our local mechanic set the governor before we maid it home the day we got and I checked it over and it is set correctly 

 

I noticed that this started happening as soon as I installed the carb rebuild kit that I had for it

 

Edited May 18, 2021 by Jonnyrocket132

[ebinmaine 63,137]

We'd really need to see video to be more accurate. Sounds like a lean condition which may be caused by an air leak, or a setting isn't quite right. 

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

wait does an air leak make like a hissing sound while it is running? because I do hear a hissing sound 

[ebinmaine 63,137]

2 minutes ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

wait does an air leak make like a hissing sound while it is running? because I do hear a hissing sound 

Yeah it certainly can.

 

Spray some carb cleaner on or around the carburetor area while it's running and you may locate the leak that way. 

 

If you find the point where it's sucking extra air and it takes in the carb cleaner the engine RPM could change drastically. 

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

Update on the 417-8,

I finally got it to run and idle without the choke

Edited May 24, 2021 by Jonnyrocket132

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

2 minutes ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

got it to run and idle without the choke

 

And what was the cause / solution pray tell?

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

at first after I installed a new carb rebuild kit and a new fuel pump(I had to get a new one because the old one wouldn't pump any fuel) and it still wouldn't run without choke but then I checked the adjustment screws and noticed that they were adjusted way to far in so I screwed them out until it would idle without choke and that fixed my problem

now it doesn't hesitate like it use to when I turn the mower deck on

 

Edited May 24, 2021 by Jonnyrocket132

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

I just came across a snow blower for my wheel horse 417-8 and the guy wants $100, do you guys think that is a good deal?

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

Just now, Jonnyrocket132 said:

I just came across a snow blower for my wheel horse 417-8 and the guy wants $100, do you guys think that is a good deal?

 

Depending on condition, yes, likely is.

 

They go for around $300 more or less typically

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/2965635990317342/?referralSurface=messenger_lightspeed_banner&referralCode=messenger_banner

that is the one that I came across 

the guy does have a box of parts with it as well

Edited May 26, 2021 by Jonnyrocket132

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

3 hours ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

that is the one that I came across 

 

That's an older model but it might work with your machine, not sure.

 

However!  There is NO LIFT ROD OR "FLAG" PICTURED!  Nor do I see the 'side flaps' , So it may not be complete.  Beware.

 

you might want to download some of the snow blower manuals and familiarize yourself with all the parts that should come with it!

 

Edited May 26, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[Jonnyrocket132 38]

the guy says that he has the stuff that isn't on it in a box

[Jeff-C175 7,195]

3 hours ago, Jonnyrocket132 said:

the guy says that he has the stuff that isn't on it in a box

 

That's good, but you should still know what to look for.

 

And do keep in mind that those steel rollers put that unit into the 60s or so.

 

Be certain it fits your machine, I don't think it will attach by the front tach a matic, it probably attaches with a long bolt through the frame.

 

I've got pretty much the same one by the way.

 

Edited May 27, 2021 by Jeff-C175

[pfrederi 17,147]

Older machines used a long bot to hold the blower on the frame, later used the tachmatic.  the brackets for the mounting are different.