Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Handy Don
1 hour ago, kpinnc said:

 

My setup keeps all of the left pedal function, so the interlocks all still work. All I changed there was reinforcement with some more steel and added bronze bushings to compensate for my Clydesdale right foot.

 

I'm not up on all the versions of interlocks, but for the units that had Eatons and levers on the floor, the switch is activated by the lever itself. A spring "pulled" it into a neutral slot and closed the switch. For the "column" shifters, the switch is inside the hoodstand and closed by a tab on the lever arm.

In either case, disconnecting the lever to get unencumbered, full range forward/reverse via the pedal leaves that starter interlock switch needing a different setup. If it were me, I'd gang a second switch to the existing parking brake indicator switch and wire that as the starter enabling interlock so the park brake would have to be on to start the tractor.

I know that some 8-speed tractors had the start enabling switch linked to the clutch pedal.

 

  • Like 2
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
23 minutes ago, Ed Kennell said:

 If you start your tractor, or dismount the running tractor w/o setting the brake , it will move in reverse.   But I accept responsibilty for my own actions  and would not have a tractor w/o it.

 

Exactly!

 

I absolutely believe in safety, but manufacturers nowadays take it too far. When anything becomes more dangerous out of sheer complexity, it has gone too far.

 

The seat switch is in my mind most important, particularly when coupled with the park brake. If my butt leaves the seat and the brake is not set, the tractor should shut off. 

 

My wife's grandfather almost tipped his 416 on a hill, and tried to jump off the tractor. The cuff of his overalls snagged the deck height adjuster and he fell. Then the still running 416 drug him by one leg until it was stopped by a tree. Even though he shouldn't have been trying to operate the tractor on the steep incline, if he hadn't disconnected the seat switch, he might not have had much more than a good joke to tell. He was lucky to have not been injured.

Edited by kpinnc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
6 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

If it were me, I'd gang a second switch to the existing parking brake indicator switch and wire that as the starter enabling interlock so the park brake would have to be on to start the tractor.

I know that some 8-speed tractors had the start enabling switch linked to the clutch pedal

 

I agree. Thank you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ed Kennell
32 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

I'd gang a second switch to the existing parking brake indicator switch and wire that as the starter enabling interlock so the park brake would have to be on to start the tractor.

Or just reposition the neutral start safety switch so it is functional.    I thought about this, but decided to wait a couple years till I was a little more absentminded.   I am now programmed to set the parking brake every time I dismount the tractor so a safety switch would probably make me careless.

Maybe next year when I reach level 8.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Snoopy11
23 hours ago, Ed Kennell said:

set the parking brake every time I dismount the tractor

Wonder why L-157's don't have parking brakes...?

 

I just end up using my dozer blade (if I indeed have it on the tractor) as my parking brake... :happy-partydance:

 

Don

  • Like 1
  • Haha 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc

Started on the electrical this weekend. This console came from a 518-H, so only 3 gauges. With that, and the sensors I have for this engine- I stuck with the basics. Hour meter, voltmeter, and oil pressure. Gotta figure out if I can put a "T" in the oil port, because I want to keep the pressure kill switch.

 

Anyway, now I'm building a wiring harness. I hate the electrical part!

IMG_20210918_232718704.jpg

  • Like 3
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977

It shouldn't be a problem to add a tee to keep the oil pressure switch. I added a tee at the filter on my C-120 I have a oil pressure light and gauge attached.

 

SAM-1381.jpg

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
4 hours ago, kpinnc said:

the electrical part

Interesting how many people say that. 

I'm well aware I ain't quite right but I find building a simple tractor harness to be quite relaxing. 

Mind you we run no safeties in our older machines and there's only about 10 wires...

 

Very nice work so far.  I'm sure the wiring will be as well. 

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
7 hours ago, Lee1977 said:

I added a tee at the filter on my C-120 I have a oil pressure light and gauge attached.

 

Thank you sir! That is what I had in mind, but wasn't sure if it would work or not.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
kpinnc
5 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

Interesting how many people say that. 

I'm well aware I ain't quite right but I find building a simple tractor harness to be quite relaxing. 

Mind you we run no safeties in our older machines and there's only about 10 wires...

 

I'm just sorta lazy. The wiring isn't hard, but so many times my harness looks great, and then I find a flaw. Turns into a bird nest! :angry-banghead:

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Handy Don
13 minutes ago, kpinnc said:

and then I find a flaw

Ain't that the truth!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Lee1977

Those safety from Toro have gotten way to high, I ordered 4 in 2019 I think they were around 3.50.each to replace all on my 520. I checked a couple weeks back they were $9 to $20 from the parts suppliers.

I was ordering some pullies for the Eddleman mower and ordered a Honeywell mini snap switch just to see. The only difference is the mounting holes 7/8" center to center apposed to Toro switch at 15/16".

Honeywell mini snap switch SPDT 10 Amp. Zoro # G4630153 $2.68.

Edited by Lee1977

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...