Post overhaul Oil Choices

[pfrederi 18,666]

After an over haul I always filler up with what ever cheap OE30 I can find.  Then after an hour of run time or so  change it for the normal Rotella T-1 30w.  When you have a bunch of tractors some with very limited use That is OK.  But I have a couple overhauled that are going to be going into more serious work.  I would like to transition them to full synthetic.  Old guys always said don't put synthetic in an overhaul... the rings won't seat....but you buy a new car comes with synthetic water 0-20w (seriously!!) and you are good for a year. 

 

Thoughts???

[squonk 43,799]

Why synthetic Paul? Rotella seems like a good choice based on what I found in my K341. Modern engines are built a lot different than the old days. 

[ranger 1,798]

1. I think, whatever works for you. I prefer to use the “high detergent” diesel oil in older type engines after a rebuild. Run for an hour or so, then, oil and filter change. That way you can be fairly certain you’ve got the majority of the “Swarf” and filings produced during the initial startup and running. As for using very thin oil, modern engines are built to such close tolerances that if you run on thicker product, which will take longer to circulate, you’ll destroy it in no time! Thin oil in an older engine will have a similar  effect, and leak out of every seal.

[Achto 29,394]

3 hours ago, pfrederi said:

Old guys always said don't put synthetic in an overhaul... the rings won't seat....but you buy a new car comes with synthetic water 0-20w (seriously!!) and you are good for a year

 

@squonk is right, new engines, different alloys, different tolerances. How ever, you can break in almost any engine with Mobile 1 full synthetic oil. On the other hand, if you used Amsoil synthetic in a new or rebuilt engine it will never break in. Like every thing else not all synthetic oils are created equal.

Edited April 25, 2021 by Achto

[bds1984 1,499]

I've been running synthetic and semi-synthetic 5W40 & 15W40 (Rotella and Wolf's Head) in my overhauled K341 for nearly seven years with many of those hours being worked fairly hard and with zero issues.  I've performed the break-in procedure just like you have done and what you have performed in the past is all you need to do before selecting an oil to run regularly.  Run a couple hours with the 30WT, flush, and then fill with your favorite flavor of quality lubricant. 

[tom2p 2,394]

but what about the new bearings ... rods ... crank ... camshaft ...  ?

 

bearings / rods / cranks / cams lives matter !

 

lol

 

seriously - the important consideration is to change the oil (quickly / after break in) more than the type of oil 

 

I'm not aware of any issues with break in using full synthetic oil - but I have no experience with Amsoil 

many if not most conventional / petroleum motor oils contains synthetic additives - without them they would have little wear protection