Gas leaking flooding engine

[Jason Miller 24]

My 856 just got carb cleaned and new points etc. however when I went out to run today puddle of gas leaking from carb out air filter. I took off the float bowl and cleaned? Still doing the same thing won’t start it’s getting flooded with gas. Any suggestions from here????

[8ntruck 7,524]

Sounds like a float problem.  Brass float?  If so, it might have a hole in it and not be floating in the gas in the bowl.  The float height might be incorrect.  There could be something amiss with the float valve and seat.

 

Good luck.

[Achto 29,061]

9 minutes ago, Jason Miller said:

Any suggestions from here????

 

There is also a vent hole from the bowl area to the intake venturi side of the carb. If this passage is plugged the air has no place to go as the float bowl fills. This will force fuel up the main jet and flood the carb and engine.

[squonk 43,009]

You cleaned the carb. But did you replace the needle and seat? 

[Jason Miller 24]

Plastic float I’ll take off and go from here

[Jason Miller 24]

Took carb to small engine shop. He said needle ( rubber) appeared worn. He also pressured tested the carb. Won’t hold air. So he’s ordering a new needle. He said float appeared ok. Thats where I’m at at this point. Thanks for the suggestions 

[moe1965 752]

I recommend replacing the seat as well even though you are replacing the needle I replaced just the needle and still had the same issue until I replaced both just my 2 cents 

[Jason Miller 24]

Where is the seat? Replaced needle and yes still have gas coming out carb... ughhh

[Achto 29,061]

The seat is brass fitting the the needle slides into.

[Achto 29,061]

1 hour ago, Jason Miller said:

Replaced needle and yes still have gas coming out carb... ughhh

 

When I rebuild a Carter carburetor on a Kohler I use a Kohler rebuild kit. Kohler part number 2575701S. The kit includes a needle, seat, seat gasket. float pin, both bowl gaskets, and the gasket for the float bowl screw, Cost around $15. I do not recommend that you let some one talk you into an aftermarket kit. I have not had good luck with any of them. 

 

Note: you will need a thin wall 3/8" socket to remove the seat. Or you can grind the outside of a regular 3/8" socket down so that it will fit down on to the seat.

 

 

Edited May 8, 2021 by Achto

[Jason Miller 24]

Where can I get this kit?

[Jason Miller 24]

I have a Walbro carb.

[tunahead72 2,522]

That changes things.  The Walbro and Kohler/Carter carbs (and their kits) are different, so I wonder if your shop guy used the wrong needle.  Can you see any other markings on the body of the carb?

 

I've only rebuilt one Walbro carb, just recently, and I read advice elsewhere (Brian Miller's web site) NOT to remove the seat from the Walbro carbs.

 

So, just to make sure we're all on the same page...  Besides the cleaning and new needle, what else has been done to this carb so far?  Any gaskets replaced?

 

[Jason Miller 24]

Just the gasket that connects the carb to the engine. 

[Achto 29,061]

On 5/8/2021 at 3:04 PM, Jason Miller said:

I have a Walbro carb.

 

As stated that changes things. I personally have not had to deal with a Walbro carb. The rebuild kits are a bit, strike that - quite a bit more for a Kohler kit. I think that I might give an aftermarket kit a try on that.

 

Google the Kohler part number 2575711S for sources of OEM and aftermarket.

Edited May 10, 2021 by Achto

[tunahead72 2,522]

I'm no expert on these things, but if I'm reading the Kohler K181 parts list and carb reference manual correctly, the kit number that Achto just gave you is the correct kit for your carb.  It should work, but it's pricey, and includes a lot of parts that you won't use.

 

Walbro has their own kit K1-WHG that MAY work.  The only way to know for sure is to look for markings on the carb.  You should see WHG somewhere, and a Kohler part number probably on the top or bottom of the mounting flange.  If you end up removing the carb again, look for a 2-digit number inside the main bore (engine side), and numbers on the throttle and choke plates.  Stens also has a couple of kits that might work.

 

But none of this really addresses why your carb is actually flooding, even with a new needle.  You didn't say how it was cleaned (soaked thoroughly, or just sprayed?).  My best guess right now is (like Achto mentioned earlier) that there's probably passageways inside the carb that are still clogged and need to be opened up.  The seat could also still be dirty, that should come clean with a thorough soaking in carb cleaner, but you can also polish it gently with a Q-tip (either by hand, or inserted into a drill at low speed).

 

[Jason Miller 24]

So this is where I’m at. Went to engine shop took my plug looked fouled and it was wouldn’t spark- from all the gas flooding it. Got new plug. He looked up the Walbro kit $10 but no seat not needle in it?? Also the Kohler one you mentioned $55. He suggested as you did to clean the seat with qtip. I think that’s what I’ll do.

 

did go home and put new plug in fired right up runs great just extremely high idle for some reason I can’t get this carb to adjust well at all. But on plus side it runs. I closed fuel line after running to prevent filling carb with gas until I get this thing fixed.

[tunahead72 2,522]

On 5/8/2021 at 4:04 PM, Jason Miller said:

 

You might try adjusting your carb to its initial settings and see if that improves things.

 

In your photo, you'll see three screws facing you.  The one in the center, at the top, is the idle speed screw.  Try turning that counterclockwise a little, maybe 1/2 a turn at a time, to lower the idle speed.

 

The screw to the left of that one is the idle fuel needle.  Turn that fully clockwise until it just lightly bottoms out -- don't force it, or you could damage the tip of the needle.  Count the number of turns as you do this, so you know where it was set to begin with.  Then turn it back out counterclockwise 2-1/2 turns; that's the recommended initial setting from the carb reference manual.

 

And the screw at the bottom right is the main fuel needle.  Turn that clockwise until it bottoms out lightly (count the number of turns here too), then back out counterclockwise 3/4 of a turn.

 

By the way, I wouldn't try to clean the seat with the carb still mounted to the engine.  It's difficult to get to, you'll have to remove the bowl and the float, and you could lose or damage the needle in the process.  If you can't get this carb to stop flooding, I think the next step would be to remove the carb, give it a good inspection and thorough soak in carb cleaner, and replace the bowl gasket.  We can help you through this process if you decide to go that way with it.

 

[tunahead72 2,522]

@Jason Miller  Just wondering, did you ever resolve this problem?  My one tractor with the Walbro carb is acting up, so I'll be digging into the carb again later today.

 

I see you had this tractor running well a couple of months ago and were thinking of selling it.  If you still have it and really want to sell it, if you're still in Newville you're only about 40 minutes away from the big Wheel Horse show in Arendtsville in June.

 

[Jason Miller 24]

When is Ardentsville, Pa show? Can you buy there?
Jason

[tunahead72 2,522]

Hi Jason,

 

The big show is Friday and part of Saturday, June 24-25 this year.  It's put on by the Wheel Horse Collectors Club, you can get more information here:

Wheel Horse Colllectors Club (wheelhorseclub.com)

WH updated flyer 2022.pdf (wsimg.com)

Wheel Horse Collectors Club - Home | Facebook

 

And also here on RedSquare:

Wheel Horse Collectors Club Show - RedSquare Wheel Horse Forum

 

And yes, you can definitely buy there, anything from parts to complete tractors and implements.  It's a real fun time, and well worth attending if you can make it.