TC10284 110 #1 Posted April 14, 2021 (edited) I have a 414-8 with Kohler M14. As soon as I turn the key to Run, the seat switch light comes on. This one previously ran just a month ago. I've tried cleaning and swapping the ignition switch, cleaning the battery terminals, checking the seat switch, jumping the seat switch. I've tried a battery booster too. Occasionally, I could get the PTO safety light to flash very quickly, but it didn't do that always. I got the seat switch light to go off once, but it still did not crank. This problem is new to me. Pics: https://pic8.co/a/5643aa45-e411-42ec-81e9-45ce24faf8a1 Edited April 14, 2021 by TC10284 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533 #2 Posted April 14, 2021 You have two topics going 414-8 K321 - No spark 414-8 - M14 - Seat switch immediately comes on These two models use completely different ignition systems. What is the model number of the tractor you are working on? A K321 engine has ignition points. An M14 engine does not have ignition points. What is the part number of the new ignition switch? Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 110 #3 Posted April 14, 2021 3 hours ago, gwest_ca said: You have two topics going 414-8 K321 - No spark 414-8 - M14 - Seat switch immediately comes on These two models use completely different ignition systems. What is the model number of the tractor you are working on? A K321 engine has ignition points. An M14 engine does not have ignition points. What is the part number of the new ignition switch? Garry Right. This is a totally different tractor from my other post. I was going to start it up and let it idle a bit while I worked on the 414-8 with k321, but ran into this. I have too many (my wife would say) lol. Anyway, it should be in the pics, but the model is: 3114k804 Serial 35379 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533 #4 Posted April 14, 2021 This is for the M14 Here is a rear view of the correct ignition switch so you can compare the location of the terminals. The terminal identification letters must match. Click on the picture in the link to view more There are 2 pto switches. One works for the starter motor along with the clutch pedal switch and the low oil switch. The other pto switch works with the seat switch to control the magneto ignition. One pto switch has nothing to do with the other pto switch other than they are next to one another. Do not jumper the seat switch. That can only shut the ignition off when you have magneto ignition. For testing purposes only just disconnect the wires from the switch. What ever you do do not apply any power to the seat switch wires. The ignition will go up in smoke. These diagrams have one for each circuit making it easier to follow. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 110 #5 Posted April 14, 2021 Gary, Thanks as always! I'll review both. Is it possible the test switch light board has gone bad causing my issue? Or is it more likely a safety switch has gone bad or became corroded? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,533 #6 Posted April 14, 2021 16 minutes ago, TC10284 said: Gary, Thanks as always! I'll review both. Is it possible the test switch light board has gone bad causing my issue? Not likely. The board can be disconnected and have no effect on the rest of the tractor. Or is it more likely a safety switch has gone bad or became corroded? Most likely 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 110 #7 Posted April 15, 2021 I think I have found the source of my woes. I recalled that this one was one that had really rigged up wiring when I got it and I fixed most of it last year. What led me to this is that I could move the 5 pin keystone back and forth and up and down with the key in the Run position and the Seat switch light would go off intermittently. So then I decided to pull out each packard 56 terminal to check them. Well, I'm guessing there's too much current going through those two red wires joined to one and it melted the connector. I couldn't get the terminal out without ripping out the wire. Too much resistance going from two red wires to one single red wire of the same gauge. To fix the wiring issue, I'd either need a heavier gauge wire to handle both those two reds, or connect up two short pieces of red wire to each one, then to the 5 pin connector. Would it be better to get another 5 pin connector and the packard 56 terminals, or just go for a Stens 430-223? So I'll be ordering a new keystone, connectors, and maybe a new ignition switch. Pics: https://pic8.co/a/4bb27344-07e9-4074-907b-13a156a8cadf Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 110 #8 Posted April 20, 2021 I got the new key switch connector today and placed all the terminals/wires back in the connector. Seat switch is still coming on. Sometimes the light comes on bright, sometimes it will flicker dim, sometimes it won't come on at all. I DID get the engine to turn over a few times - but not all the time when I turned the key to Start. It was getting dark and I couldn't see well outside. So I'm wondering if I have a poor ground to the chassis now. Not much else makes sense at this point. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TC10284 110 #9 Posted April 21, 2021 (edited) OK, I have isolated my issue. I can jiggle or move the 6th terminal connector for ground and the seat switch light comes on/goes off or flickers. I have tried cleaning this connector but not much luck. It doesn't look too bad. I have checked the negative terminal that connects from battery to chassis - cleaned it and made sure it was contacting well. According to your wiring diagram, I also need to look at the ground connection going to the solenoid from the key switch. Edited April 21, 2021 by TC10284 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
