Onan engine shroud(s) paint question

[seuadr 488]

Hey all,

 

i am in the process of a repower on my 520H. I will be putting an onan back in it, but, the tins are kind of rough, so i plan on repainting them - i haven't got the equipment to powder coat or spray, so i'll be doing a hopefully not horrible rattle can job.

 

what i'm wondering is - should i consider using high temp paint instead of "regular" paint? what about something like rustolium engine enamle?

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Jared

[Handy Don 10,548]

I repainted the tins on my P218 recently. Used regular enamel on the blower housing, coil base, and head shields. Hi temp on the exhaust manifold shroud and muffler guard. Holding up fine as far as I can see so far.

[seuadr 488]

good to know, thanks! i don't usually paint things unless they are rusting (with POR-15 that stuff is great!) , but this will be a brand new short block and i gotta wait for gaskets anyhow so it feels like the right time  

 

what brand did you use? did you primer it?

[Handy Don 10,548]

Just now, seuadr said:

good to know, thanks! i don't usually paint things unless they are rusting (with POR-15 that stuff is great!) , but this will be a brand new short block and i gotta wait for gaskets anyhow so it feels like the right time  

 

what brand did you use? did you primer it?

Usual Rustoleum (I've had lots of practice with it in rattle cans so I can be pretty consistent on coats and on re-coat timing but I know others like other brands!)

I did not prime since the there was practically no down-to-the metal rust, only lots of dulling and scratches. Good cleaning with mineral spirits after light sanding with fine sandpaper to make sure the blemishes were smoothed out and I'd have good grip. Personally, I like the glossy black look for the engine--makes it look like it's ready for work!

[Damien Walker 223]

Hello, I have just completed the restoration of my 518H which included sprucing up the Onan shrouds. I didn't have powder coat capability when I painted the various parts (though I now do) and so used 2 pack isocyanate based paint. In my experience, this gives the most durable finish that has good ageing resistance, but you do need breathing aparatus, particularly if you are spraying indoors. I always use 2 pack primer too. I now tend to powder coat most things though because the finish is REALLY tough. The additional benefit of powder coating is the speed...a few nights ago, I powder coated the pto and motion lever interlock switch mounting brackets. Both were slightly rusty and the paint flaking. 5 mins to blast the paint off (I think shot blasting is essential for powder coat) 2 mins to coat and 10 mins in the oven and voila: new parts that can be screwed straight on to the tractor (when they have cooled down!). My set up is not big enough for the main panels, so I had them done professionally and I suspect they applied a primer coat first, though I never do with my equipment.

 

So in summary, both the tractor and the engine are painted in a mix of 2 pack and powder coat and perhaps of particular interest; the exhaust heat shield is powder coated. So far I have run the tractor twice to mow the lawn (takes approx 40mins) and I'm not seeing any deterioration anywhere, not even the heatshield.  Only time will tell.

[seuadr 488]

29 minutes ago, Damien Walker said:

Hello, I have just completed the restoration of my 518H which included sprucing up the Onan shrouds. I didn't have powder coat capability when I painted the various parts (though I now do) and so used 2 pack isocyanate based paint. In my experience, this gives the most durable finish that has good ageing resistance, but you do need breathing apparatus, particularly if you are spraying indoors. I always use 2 pack primer too.

Damien,

 

thanks for sharing! unfortunately, i don't have the setup to blast or powder coat (wish i did!)

 

i'm planning on seeking some of that stuff out once we finish building our new house, but in the meantime i just want something to protect the engine and shrouds and hopefully not look like complete crap until i get settled into my new shop once we've settled in and sold our current house.

[Damien Walker 223]

Well it all depends on the finish you want, and how much effort you are prepared to put in to it! I have to admit to being rather busy (aka 'lazy', so lots of rubbing down doesn't appeal at all. You can get the professionals to blast clean for you but it is rather expensive over here unfortunately. I've built my kit up over several years so didn't have the expenditure all in one go, but none of it individually was very expensive....and a new acquisition just expands your horizons further.

 

So with all that said, you'll be fine with Rustoleum....loads of people recommend it here,  and the finish quality is down to the hours of rubbing down!

 

I had problems matching paint colours (doesn't everyone?) so for the record, satin black for the engine rather than gloss and because we are were in Europe, Toro's official red colour of Pantone186C is not easy to get hold of here. (OK, Rustoleum don't acknowledge it either, but they do have reds that closely match). We use the German RAL system and various British Standards so RAL3003 is good as is BS381C 538 Red Cherry. Some say that's our Post Office red but my panels were eventually powder coated with 'Post Office Red which is considerably lighter than BS381C 538 and it is what they paint their lorries with!

[seuadr 488]

Well, first part of the shroud, first round of stripping:

 

 

Going to need to get a flapper wheel or something to remove the really tough rust, then I'll smooth everything. Thinking about getting an air tool from harbor freight for the task.

[Damien Walker 223]

50 minutes ago, seuadr said:

Well, first part of the shroud, first round of stripping:

 

 

Going to need to get a flapper wheel or something to remove the really tough rust, then I'll smooth everything. Thinking about getting an air tool from harbor freight for the task.

 

More power is always the answer! Flap wheels are good because they cause little damage...and, sorry to harp on about it, but shot/sand blasting is the bizz for this. Which brings me to another point. If you have rust pock marks, they get much worse with shot blasting and are easy to fill using bondo or similar...but not so good if you powder coat. Bondo doesn't like the heat! I believe powder coat compatible fillers are available but I didn't bother. My panels are mostly fine with only some marks on the removable centre console panels and the rear Fender. It wouldn't pass muster in a concours competition but it'll do fine for me.

 

Anyway, it looks as though you are well on the way..I look forward to seeing more photos! I'll try and get some of mine for comparison.

[seuadr 488]

Yeah there is some pock marking, i was hoping it was not going to that bad, but there are a couple fairly bad spots. Guess I'll learn to use bondo - doesn't look att the different than mudding drywall really.

[Damien Walker 223]

Very similar to plastering in fact....many thin coats better than one thick...it's all about how much sanding you have to do to smooth out the lumps and bumps. The answer is to not put them there in the first place...Nice thin skims please! Over here we also have cellulose body putty (watch it, it dries lightning fast), but that is good for filling in any scratches and air bubbles in the bondo...I presume you'll have something similar? You can also get spray filler which is just like thick primer. That's very good for finish quality because it goes on smooth by the fact that you spray it (unless it runs).

 

From what I can see in your picture, the rust doesn't look too bad. If the blemishes are hidden underneath the plastic grill or the fuel pump for example, there's little point in spending much time on them as only you will know they exist!

[lynnmor 6,762]

I use this Dupli-Color on Onan tins.

[WheelhorseBob 1,548]

I just did some. I used Rustoleum semi gloss automotive enamel. No idea of durability but they look nice.

[seuadr 488]

Looks good, bob!

 

i elected to just get it together for now, and worry about doing a fantastic job later - i have a second set of tins that i can take the time to really do nice and have someone powdercoat or whatever.

 

[Damien Walker 223]

I promised some photos of my paint finish....unfortunately the effect is ruined slightly by me running the tractor round the lawn twice (very dusty) but hopefully this will show what I have achieved. The fan cowl is 2 pack isocyanate paint (primed first) and the air filter is powder coat. I did take a photo of the exhaust heat shield too, but it is blurred so not worth posting here. As mentioned, despite having run the engine a couple of times to good running temperature, there is no sign of discolouration (yet). I didn't worry about small rust worm blemishes and I'm very happy with the result.