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Gregor

Guess what I bought!

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bc.gold
4 hours ago, Handy Don said:

That the mounting holes and the hole at the end of the shaft appear plugged is odd, too. Generators and pumps normally need a tight, straight connection to the motor.

 

What ever went onto the crankshaft was meant to be changed out quick.

 

Single nut with a thrust washer against the generator bearing face held everything together, and those four holes kept everything in alignment.

 

Below filter minder, red flag appears indicating service required.

 

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Edited by bcgold
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Gregor

Before doing anything with this motor, I figured I had to find out just what I was dealing with. I made myself an engine stand, complete with motor mounts.20210115_100320.jpg.a3cfc6a74c69188293fed8c6910d1f50.jpg  As with everything I do, it's

 going to need a little revamping if I ever want to put oil in this thing. Oh well, I'm use to that.

20210115_100338.jpg.d25abbc945112fb96ae0bd6cd69d07ce.jpg

I wanted to remove the shroud and flywheel to take a look at the points. That wasn't as easy as you might thing either, but I digress. There are no points. It has some sort of solid state module. That might be a bad thing.

578706548_20210115_102256(2).jpg.e8a9b6c404695ff923a12c1c66966e5a.jpgIn the manual it shows some kind of ignition  module mounted on top of the motor. (I took a screen shot of it, but as usual, I don't know how to find it.  It's on a "clipboard" somewhere. I didn't know I had a clipboard) This motor doesn't show any signs of ever having something mounted on the top, as shown in the pictures. Is what I have, all I need?

20210115_110237.jpg.426cc9c8d5ac3a6720e19de3623816aa.jpgThere is an on/off switch mounted in the shroud. One wire goes to case ground. Another wire (yellow arrow) comes out and goes??????

If I do need that other module, I hope it's available somewhere. If not, this thing is going to make a really interesting, albeit expensive, door stop.

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ebinmaine

No way to trace back that yellow wire without removing half the engine is there ?

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Gregor

That yellow wire goes to the on/off switch.

20210115_122354.jpg.f25ac5337e6729b0f0068d8d352601d0.jpg

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ebinmaine

Well that's not overly helpful if it isn't connected to anything that can be turned on or off.....

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Gregor

The other wire on the switch goes to case ground. I am going to have to study the manual a bit more.

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ebinmaine
6 minutes ago, Gregor said:

The other wire on the switch goes to case ground. I am going to have to study the manual a bit more.

I'd be more than happy to take a peek at mine sometime this weekend but I don't think I'll be able to tell much from the outside

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pfrederi

Before you tear into it you should check out the manuals.  That is the coil in your picture.  The points are under the cover circled in blue.

 

I would bet you if you had hooked up spark plug tester and pulled the rope you would have had a spark.

 

 

point.jpg

Edited by pfrederi
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Gregor

Well that's interesting. I have been looking at the manual, but I didn't see that. Before I tear into it any more, I am going to reassemble, figure out some way to hook up a spark plug, give it a spin, and see if there is fire.  Thank You!

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Gregor

HOUSTON !  WE HAVE IGNITION ! :)

 

so what happened to the emojis. they quit working.

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ebinmaine
8 minutes ago, Gregor said:

HOUSTON !  WE HAVE IGNITION ! :)

 

so what happened to the emojis. they quit working.

:wh::scared-shocked:

 

 

Seems fine   

Minor glitch I'd say

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Gregor
18 hours ago, Stepney said:

.....coating the float in model airplane dope before you destroy it with modern fuel is a good idea..

I use only ethanol free gas. Is it still important to coat the float?

 

Yes there are points in there. I have fire, and I have a fuel line hooked to the pump. I am technically ready to give it a try, but.......... What if it starts? How do I shut it off? Without starving it out of fuel, or flooding it to death? I may want to shut it off in a hurry! This isn't a motor where you can simply yank the plug wire. Here is what I came up with. There is a small hole in the bottom of the box containing the points. I ran a small green wire through the hole. Anyone see a problem with attaching the green wire to the stud where the points wire is connected, and then connecting the other end to the kill switch on the shroud? 1309082312_20210115_152216(2).jpg.1270b2e47a7296a532fb1462de8bfa56.jpgAnother question. I have heard this both ways. Some say it's bad for a small engine to run without a muffler. Others say, it doesn't hurt anything, just loud. Your opinion?  I have a muffler on order, but it won't be here for at least a week.

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pfrederi

If you put it back to either the kill switch should work...if not just choke it.  No muffler no problem for testing I would not mess withe the points.  Sort of like a Techy if it works do not mess with it.

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Gregor

I didn't mess with the points at all. Only one wire on the kill switch was connected to anything, and that was case ground.

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ebinmaine

Any schematic showing actual desired location for that kill switch wire?

 

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71_Bronco

Is there anyway to hold the points open to prevent a spark? Maybe run it without the cover on the breaker box and stuff a plastic knife in the points to prevent them from opening and closing?

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Gregor

I ran into another snag. If it weren't for bad luck, I'd have no luck at all! The PTO shaft on this motor has a 3/4 shaft with a key way. I put a pulley on it, just so I could spin in around by hand. When I did, there was a scraping sound. I thought something was rubbing on flywheel. Nope. Pulled the flywheel. The magnet unit was rubbing on the coil laminate. There doesn't seem to be an adjustment for this. I spun it by hand holding a piece of 800 grit on the magnets. Sprayed things lightly with carb cleaner, and blew it out a little with air. MUCH better now. There are no magnets in the flywheel on this thing. It's aluminum, and weighs almost nothing. It's all back together again. I just opened a beer, trying to work up the courage to give it a whirl.

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Gregor

Well, I spun it over. Nothing.........So I spun it a little faster.:auto-nascar:  Vroom ! Took off like a top. Don't know if the video will play or not. May need a little carb adjustment. That's something I am not very good at.

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Stepney

Sounds about like one of them.. a little finesse can get them running better. Shouldn't have to worry about the float if your not running ethanol fuel. Its just like my old outboards, the ethanol just breaks the cork down for whatever reason. 

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Gregor

Ruh Roh. Just tried to start it again, and stripped the gears out of my cordless Dewalt drill, but it is about 25 years old. I guess I got the goody out of it. Now I gotta get me a rope.

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pfrederi

Ropes be cheaper than drills....

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pfrederi

Incidentally Milspec engines were made by several companies.  I have Chrysler Outboard (marine), Teledyne and Hercules, there are others does you r have an ID???

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Gregor

Just up the road from me. 2 cylinder military engine. NOS. Still has the plastic plugs in fuel line and exhaust. $300 might be a little steep. My wife was out here today, counting motors. :hide:

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Gregor
2 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Incidentally Milspec engines were made by several companies.  I have Chrysler Outboard (marine), Teledyne and Hercules, there are others does you r have an ID???

No, there is no tag on it.

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Gregor

Turns out I do have a rope. This thing pulls a LOT easier than my Tecumseh H70. Started on 2nd. pull.

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