BIGMIKE 78 #1 Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) I had a chance to use the 42" snow thrower I picked up a few years ago. It has been sitting in the back of my shop since then. Expecting the Big Storm we had on Thursday I dragged it out and looked it over. Not as nice as I thought it was. Looks like it was used to throw rocks. Very badly bent and worn Auger edges especially in the center. I straightened things up as well as i could. Good news is the bearings and chain are good. I had to fix the chain guard as it was broken off. Weird thing is the runner feet. I don't think this Thrower had them originally. It has the adjustable lever for wheels (which are missing) but there is clearly an interference problem with the 2 systems. Plus the 2 wheel mount bars are out of index with each other. The angles should match, they don't. Looks like the adjuster handle was removed or broken off and rewelded back out on of position. There is no model number on the thrower at all I did get it mounted up and used it. It throws the snow pretty well considering the sorry condition of the auger. My questions: One bad thing is I keep losing the lift rod. It shears the retaining pin at the lift lug on the Thrower. Happened twice. Is there a special pin to use? Are the wheels better than the runner feet? Is this even the right thrower for my tractor? The lift rod looks different at the thrower end than the pictures I see on the forum Bent end vs welded on. It came with the Thrower. I use this in a dirt/gravel driveway. I will download a manual once i know what thrower this even is. 1990 416-H tractor. Handle set in first hole. Note postion of wheel mount. handle still in first hole Note position of wheel mount. Interference with skid. Belt routing. Does it look like correct belt? (came with the blower. Note lift rod connection. Look OK? When the Thrower comes up it tilts. The right side comes up first. It sets down uneven. maybe a lift rod adjustment? Edited December 19, 2020 by BIGMIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,276 #2 Posted December 19, 2020 Flat washer at the bottom on the snowthrower pin 920013 - 5/8" SAE flat washer replaced by 3256-27 (.62625" ID x 1.3125" OD or 21/32" ID x 1-5/16" OD) 932034 - 3/16" x 1" cotter pin replaced by 3272-21 Here is a list of the 37" snowthrowers which is without the extensions. Snowthrower DNA All have 2 idler sprockets for the drive chain. Started out as 37" wide and the added wings make them 42" wide. 1966-67 model ST-376 1968 model 6-1211 1969 6-6211 plus 6-9111 1970-72 model 6-6212 plus 6-9112 All without front quick hitch so not a direct fit for 1973 and later tractors. Snowthrower rear frame mounts in the front of the tractor frame using 2 bushings and a long 3/8-16 x 8-1/2" bolt. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------ Front quick hitch introduced. Snowthrower rear frame has a 5/8" diameter round bar. 1973-74 model 6-6212 plus 6-9113 1974 model 6-6213 - (First model to include 8-0221 extensions without the front straight return - just a flat plate) 1975 model 6-6214 - (First model to include 8-0221 [103552 replaced by 93-1617 and 93-1617-01] side extensions with the front straight return. First model to have a cable spool on chute rotating crank) 1976 model 6-6215 - This one - 1976 model 66-42ST01 - and this one are likely identical. The model number format changed. 1977 model 76-42ST01 - This one 1978 model 86-42ST01 - and this one 1979 model 96-42ST01 - and this one plus 1980 may be all the same. They started using a different model number for each model year. 1980 model 06-42ST01 - (Last 42" model to use 4 grooved rollers for the chute) 1981-82 model 06-42ST02 - (First model to use plastic collar for the chute but was a retrofit for older models. Last model to use wheels) 1983 model 06-42ST03 - (First model to use skids) 1984-87 model 06-42ST04 - (Last model to use a 3/4" diameter driveshaft) 1987-89 model 06-42ST05 - (First model to use a 7/8" diameter driveshaft) 1990 model 06-42ST06 - (Last model to use a cable to turn the chute) 1991-93 model 06-42ST07 - (First model with tall chute retained by 3 individual grooved retainers) 1993-2001 model 79360 - (2001 and earlier will fit 2002-2007 with kit 105-1503) 2002-2007 model 79362 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #3 Posted December 19, 2020 Skids are not factory. Cant use Skids and wheels at the same time. Original wheels were metal. I replaced mine with deck wheels. Skids are fine with frozen ground. Otherwise they dig in and through stones.... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,385 #4 Posted December 19, 2020 (edited) My blower lifts tilted as yours. I believe it is the tension of the belt that makes the belt side lift first and higher. Edited December 19, 2020 by pfrederi 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
R Scheer 505 #5 Posted December 19, 2020 I have a two stage, so take this with a pound of salt. It would lift on an angle, I traced it back to slop in the mid attachmatic. One side was sloppy with respect to the other side. I adjusted the sloppy side with a vise and it lifts evenly now. There is also a lift assist spring on the opposite side of the blower from the lift arm, if I forget to put that on it will cause a tilt as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Charbs152 254 #6 Posted December 19, 2020 2 hours ago, roadapples said: Skids are not factory. Cant use Skids and wheels at the same time. Original wheels were metal. I replaced mine with deck wheels. Skids are fine with frozen ground. Otherwise they dig in and through stones.... I have a gravel drive... how does one convert to wheels? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #7 Posted December 19, 2020 Thanks to all that have responded so far. I will be removing the skids. Then I have to figure out how to fix the misalignment of the two wheel supports. When I figure out which snow thrower I have I can download the manual and make sure I have it installed correctly. Can someone tell me the diameter of the missing wheels? Look like 3" or 4". BIGMIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darb1964 1,100 #8 Posted December 19, 2020 Is the air pressure the same in your front tires, same size? The skids are not original as you know,but they look like they work good. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,983 #9 Posted December 20, 2020 2 hours ago, Charbs152 said: I have a gravel drive... how does one convert to wheels? I either sleeved the rod where the old wheels were or cut them off And welded shoulder bolts on. Can't remember... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #10 Posted December 20, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, Darb1964 said: Is the air pressure the same in your front tires, same size? The skids are not original as you know,but they look like they work good. Tire sizes are correct. Need new ones in front. Rear are decent with chains. Tires are loaded with what looks like antifreeze. Anyway it's green and smells like antifreeze. I will double check tire pressures. 12psi according to user manual. The skids did work ok on the flat but my 1/2 mile of driveways are not all flat. Or level. Edited December 20, 2020 by BIGMIKE 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #11 Posted December 21, 2020 Can someone tell me the diameter of the wheels that go on the sides of the snow thrower? As you can see mine are missing. BIGMIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,385 #12 Posted December 21, 2020 3.5" diameter 5/8" wide 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #13 Posted December 21, 2020 2 hours ago, pfrederi said: 3.5" diameter 5/8" wide Excellent! Thank you Sir. BIGMIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,108 #14 Posted December 21, 2020 BIGMIKE, on your bent auger blade issue , use 2 , 12 to 15 " adjustable wrenches working on the same bend spot in opposed directions , at the same time ,their combined mechanical advantage will get those edges back in shape. a hammer will only increase issues , bouncing off that bend area. I have a 62 , 36-42 single stage blower , tried the wheel issue , for my varied terrain I first went with wide slide skies , then ended up mounting swivel wheels on the back side of the blower . will try to find the pictures of that . ended up tricking out just about every area on it , works very easily , and really gets it done , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #15 Posted December 21, 2020 4 hours ago, peter lena said: BIGMIKE, on your bent auger blade issue , use 2 , 12 to 15 " adjustable wrenches working on the same bend spot in opposed directions , at the same time ,their combined mechanical advantage will get those edges back in shape. a hammer will only increase issues , bouncing off that bend area. I have a 62 , 36-42 single stage blower , tried the wheel issue , for my varied terrain I first went with wide slide skies , then ended up mounting swivel wheels on the back side of the blower . will try to find the pictures of that . ended up tricking out just about every area on it , works very easily , and really gets it done , pete Good ideas Pete. I like the swivel wheel idea. I have some too. I have a lot of tight turns with the 500'+ of driveways that I need to clear and all of it is unpaved. Swivel wheels should increase maneuverability. Looking forward to the Pics. I did the adjustable wrench deal last Thursday before attacking the snowfall. I got it pretty well straight too. There however, are some places that the steel is just gone. I have welding and steel cutting capabilities in my shop so am eager to repair/replace what is missing. Another thing that i have read here via various searches is the center of the auger where it comes together is critical to get a good "throw". Mine is pretty badly worn away and bent there. I did straighten that area out somewhat but some of the metal is just gone. . I will be welding new steel into that to get is back to OEM shape. This Pore Thrower was beat on pretty bad. I looked and the great DNA list posted by g_west and mine is somewhere between 1974 and 1980. I need to take paper in hand and tick off the features to zero in on the exact model. Thanks for that g-west! This weekend I will have at it with welder and new steel and see what I can accomplish. If i can just keep the lift rod from shearing the dang cotter pin.... One thing that I can say is during the hour or so that I had it throwing snow it tossed it a mile. It was dark though so no pictures. I will get video next time. BIGMIKE 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #16 Posted December 22, 2020 Just remember when removing/adding metal back to that auger it still needs to be close to balanced as if not it will cause vibrations and other wear issues bearings/sprockets/chains, and yes the center "scoop" section needs to be as close to the drum as possible for most effective snow removal you could even add/bolt on a reinforced rubber (truck mud flap/ conveyor belt) extension to reduce that clearance to "zero" much the same way as did on the impeller paddles of my 2stage I think @Ed Kennell did this to his single stage before letting it got without a big snowfalls for a few years. Just trying to help you out here. 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 40,689 #17 Posted December 22, 2020 Yes Jeff, I did add rubber paddles to my tall chute single. I cut pieces from a conveyer belt and backed them with a metal strip like in your picture. I also put on a smaller dia. drive pulley to increase the auger RPM. My 520 always sounded happier at 3200 revs so the auger was actually running close to design RPM. A side benefit was being able to change the belt w/o loosening the jack shaft bearing. Other mods were closing the front of the lower chute with sst and adding 8" pneumatic wheels. My experience with the single was, because the auger is the pump that throws the snow, you must keep it primed. That means varying the ground speed to keep the auger housing full of snow. To do this effectively, you should have a hydro and preferably with a foot control. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,376 #18 Posted December 22, 2020 @Ed Kennell, Thank you sir. By chance you wouldn't still have pics to help this fella out, sometimes worth more than a 1000 words 🤔. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ed Kennell 40,689 #19 Posted December 23, 2020 On 12/22/2020 at 9:07 AM, WVHillbilly520H said: @Ed Kennell, Thank you sir. By chance you wouldn't still have pics to help this fella out, sometimes worth more than a 1000 words 🤔. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #20 Posted December 31, 2020 Thanks to pfrederi i know the dimensions of the missing snowthrower wheels. So I dug out some materials and fabricated some reasonable facsimiles. Too cold to paint. I will do that in the spring. Also discovered why the angles of the wheel mounts didn't match. Broken roll pin. the mount was loose and floppy on there. Still took 3 hours to get the broken stubs out. The hole in the shaft was all wallered out. more welding to fix that. fun, fun, fun. BIGMIKE 4 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #21 Posted January 5, 2021 On 12/19/2020 at 2:02 PM, BIGMIKE said: 1990 416-H tractor. Belt too short maybe? When I lift the thrower it tilts. The right side comes up first. It sets down uneven and I have to force it down to sit level.. The belt came with the blower. it's in need of replacement. According to the Thrower DNA this is a 1975 to 1979 most likely. Since the Thrower and Tractor are different years which belt should I buy? 1990 416-H 1975 model 6-6214 - (First model to include 8-0221 [103552 replaced by 93-1617 and 93-1617-01] side extensions with the front straight return. First model to have a cable spool on chute rotating crank) 1976 model 6-6215 - This one - 1976 model 66-42ST01 - and this one are likely identical. The model number format changed. 1977 model 76-42ST01 - This one 1978 model 86-42ST01 - and this one 1979 model 96-42ST01 - and this one plus 1980 may be all the same. They started using a different model number for each model year. BIGMIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #22 Posted January 6, 2021 On 12/19/2020 at 4:29 PM, R Scheer said: I have a two stage, so take this with a pound of salt. It would lift on an angle, I traced it back to slop in the mid attachmatic. One side was sloppy with respect to the other side. I adjusted the sloppy side with a vise and it lifts evenly now. There is also a lift assist spring on the opposite side of the blower from the lift arm, if I forget to put that on it will cause a tilt as well. Thanks R Scheer. I will be looking at the attachment point this weekend. I have eight more inches of snow to experiment with. BIGMIKE Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,276 #23 Posted January 6, 2021 Drive belt 9750 (5L x 69" or 5/8" x 69") Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BIGMIKE 78 #24 Posted January 10, 2021 Victory is Mine! I took the 416-H out today and cleared the drive to my shop. About 300' long x 12' wide. I am very satisfied with the performance of the thrower with the modifications and adjustments. It cleared the 8" of snow right down to the frozen ground. Real happy. No issues except the rubber sweepers were gone when I got done. Wrong material. I have replaced them with chunks cut from an old tire. We'll see how that works. No video though. Next time. Next is electrifying the chute rotation. BIGMIKE 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Navig8r 132 #25 Posted February 2, 2021 On 1/9/2021 at 7:09 PM, BIGMIKE said: Victory is Mine! I took the 416-H out today and cleared the drive to my shop. About 300' long x 12' wide. I am very satisfied with the performance of the thrower with the modifications and adjustments. It cleared the 8" of snow right down to the frozen ground. Real happy. No issues except the rubber sweepers were gone when I got done. Wrong material. I have replaced them with chunks cut from an old tire. We'll see how that works. No video though. Next time. Next is electrifying the chute rotation. BIGMIKE Ever figure out an improvement to the blower end of the lift rod? Mine also keeps breaking the pin and dropping everything. Got my single stage for $75. and the guy threw in a plow (beat up, but on season 3 of use ), and a set of weights. Auger is beat like yours... Gotta straighten it and install rubber that's been sitting in the garage for over a year! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites