Project "Snow Drift"

[Oldskool 6,585]

Just now, ebinmaine said:

1/2" or 4L belts are pretty limited above about 10 to 12 hp. 

The main drive belt is 1/2 that one seems fine. I have to change something lol

[Stormin 9,976]

12 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Thats  what was on the zero turn originally. You get better grip with those?

 

They shouldn't slip.

[ebinmaine 63,394]

14 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Fore and aft?????? Ya lost me on what you're asking. 

If the tank screws are simply spinning in the correct desired direction but not moving the machine it would make me lean even more towards not being heavy enough. 

Although I know the whole cement vs steel is a losing battle I'm wondering what it would do on ice given that I've skates are also blades ... But with FAR more lbs per inch. 

[Oldskool 6,585]

17 minutes ago, Stormin said:

 

They shouldn't slip.

That's not what's on there now. Can be though

[Oldskool 6,585]

This is my belt routing. Am I better off with a clogged belt or different idler placement?

[Lee1977 6,274]

You don't have enough of the belt around either the drive or driven pulleys

[Stormin 9,976]

Are the idlers fixed or tensioned by springs?

[Stormin 9,976]

1 minute ago, Lee1977 said:

You don't have enough of the belt around either the drive or driven pulleys

 

That's a good point.

[Oldskool 6,585]

2 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

You don't have enough of the belt around either the drive or driven pulleys

That was my first thought when they started slipping.

[Oldskool 6,585]

2 minutes ago, Stormin said:

Are the idlers fixed or tensioned by springs?

The bolts they are on is in a slot for adjustment. Pull tight then tighten bolt

[Lee1977 6,274]

1 minute ago, Oldskool said:

The bolts they are on is in a slot for adjustment. Pull tight then tighten bolt

They are also at the wrong place.  Maybe a shorter belt with the idler between the pulleys.

[Tractorhead 8,627]

I think spring loaded been definitively better than just fixed mount idlers

[Lee1977 6,274]

10 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

I think spring loaded been definitively better than just fixed mount idlers

 With a flat idler on the slack side of the driven pulley.

[Oldskool 6,585]

9 minutes ago, Lee1977 said:

They are also at the wrong place.  Maybe a shorter belt with the idler between the pulleys.

If I remember correctly at the time of putting that together the belts were going to hit bolts bosses on the casing and that's why I went with that configuration. I think it may be a struggle to get it the way it should be.

[DennisThornton 4,769]

I suppose Edison would have been happier if his first light bulb was a winner, but...

 

I had and have concerns about the depth of the threads but I'd still like to see what it will do as is in deep snow.  If needed you already have lots of experience bending and welding the screw threads.  Just add some more depth.  If you just added to one thread on just one side and it spins a tight circle then you'd know you were on to something.

 

With no video I have to ask.  How slow can the screws drive?  What happens when you go as slow as it will?

 

Check for balance by placing a 2x4 or even better a 2" or larger pipe under the screws and see where you have a good teeter totter.

 

All the drive train stuff might have issues too and many prototypes do but I'd think if the screws are turning and she's just sitting there the issue is traction.  

Edited February 3, 2021 by DennisThornton
one to on

[8ntruck 6,446]

A screw drive needs to sink the threads into the ground to get traction.  Did you happen to notice how deep the threads went into the gravel when the machine is stationary? 

 

More weight could help.

[Handy Don 10,707]

1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

This is my belt routing. Am I better off with a clogged belt or different idler placement?

Judging by the fan blades, the center drive pulley is turning clockwise. Is that right?

If so, then on the right side the tension" side is correct--it is direct between drive and driven pulleys. But on the left, the "tension" is via the idler.

I can't see the interferences, but maybe like this?

 

[wallfish 15,988]

15 minutes ago, 8ntruck said:

A screw drive needs to sink the threads into the ground to get traction.  Did you happen to notice how deep the threads went into the gravel when the machine is stationary? 

 

More weight could help.

The fore and aft movement would come from the sides of the threads which is why it can't move on a flat concrete surface .

Belt slipping is probably at the jack shaft pulley. That's where there is the least belt to pulley contact surface

Seeing a video might help with everyone's opinion and or ideas on how to get'r going.

[Oldskool 6,585]

1 minute ago, wallfish said:

The fore and aft movement would come from the sides of the threads which is why it can't move on a flat concrete surface .

Belt slipping is probably at the jack shaft pulley. That's where there is the least belt to pulley contact surface

Seeing a video might help with everyone's opinion and or ideas on how to get'r going.

I had most of my problem with the right side belt slipping. It's hard to get a video without a camera person lol 2 handed controls lol. Plus I took it apart already.

[Oldskool 6,585]

34 minutes ago, Handy Don said:

Judging by the fan blades, the center drive pulley is turning clockwise. Is that right?

If so, then on the right side the tension" side is correct--it is direct between drive and driven pulleys. But on the left, the "tension" is via the idler.

I can't see the interferences, but maybe like this?

 

You nailed it, but I cant get your diagram to work with the obstacles

[Oldskool 6,585]

1 hour ago, DennisThornton said:

With no video I have to ask.  How slow can the screws drive?  What happens when you go as slow as it will?

 

It will creep forward till the belt slips on one side then its fighting the other side

[DennisThornton 4,769]

3 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

It will creep forward till the belt slips on one side then its fighting the other side

Well then, so both screws aren't cooperating together.  Crap!  I was hoping to simplify this.  Guess it's back to the drivetrain.  Already read several ideas and possible fixes.  Small delay...

[8ntruck 6,446]

3 hours ago, Oldskool said:

It will creep forward till the belt slips on one side then its fighting the other side

So, the seperate hydraulic drives are kind of acting like an open differential.  Sounds like cog belts might help to keep both sides going. 

[Tractorhead 8,627]

Could the belt drive on the Jackshaft to the Gearboxes be changed to a Chaindrive instead of Beltfrive?

 

simplify‘s some things i believe.

 

That will be the simplest and quickest Way for max. traction on that Transmission.

i see no reason why not, because no Clutchfunction is happen or even wished here.

 

 

Edited February 4, 2021 by Tractorhead

[Oldskool 6,585]

6 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

Could the belt drive on the Jackshaft to the Gearboxes be changed to a Chaindrive instead of Beltfrive?

 

simplify‘s some things i believe.

 

That will be the simplest and quickest Way for max. traction on that Transmission.

i see no reason why not, because no Clutchfunction is happen or even wished here.

 

 

Yes they can. It's something I'm contemplating. I'm running out of time and over budget at this point. I will see what I can scrounge up