520H and 44” two stage blower.

[WheelhorseBob 1,550]

Got my snowblower mounted. I’ve never had it on. Looks like a beast!

 

i do need the rod for turning the chute if anyone knows where I can get one let me know. The guy I bought it from couldn’t find it. 

[WHX?? 51,773]

Looks nice Bob welcome to the deuce club. Maybe some chains now. Some guys have a ballast box too but I have yet to need one but I only have one season under my belt with one. 

On the chute crank mine was missing too but easy to fab. Lenght of 3/8 rod and a couple of ninety bends and you can make the lenght to suit. I did have to get a universal off Amazon to get the angle squared away. Guessing you got the support bracket that goes in the mid mount? 

BTW fine looking 520! 

Edited September 25, 2020 by WHX24

[lynnmor 7,824]

I would think that those oversized skid shoes will have the blower riding up on the packed snow.  I can see adding some material to prevent wear on the original shoe.

[wallfish 18,117]

Nice set up.

A 12v motor wired in with a switch will do the same as a crank handle

[WHX?? 51,773]

Must be cocktail hr at 'Fishes but this is what he is is talking about on a single. Little bit of work but cat's meow. 

2nd pic is manual. Support is inside the cab. 

Edited September 26, 2020 by WHX24

[Burnerman 759]

This is perfect! Thanks! I’m going to mount up the blower on ours tmw for the first time and I’m also missing the chute crank handle.
 

@wallfish do you have any pics of the motor setup?

[WheelhorseBob 1,550]

Thanks guys anyone have a link to that universal? I like the electric option but not going to happen this year, hunting season is upon me! BTW for the observant, you may see my 8.5' Fischer HD

plow in the background which fits nicely on my F250. I'll be fine. 

[peter lena 9,279]

WHEELHORSEBOB, nice looking set up there, i recently sold a similar d/s 44" , prior to sale i detailed it at every area of function with lubrication , and it came to life. pretty simple but if you put grease on a spiral gear , it moves easier. i would also test run that electric motor mount , finding the slightest movement made it work easier, also screw depth to gear helps out. use lubriplate chain and cable lubricant on the auger chain drive and related movement areas , like butter. also like your belt guard aeration holes , smart move there.  also if you marvel mystery oil the entire painted area with a clean cloth , it will look close to new and also bead up with paint protection , what a concept . w/h red paint loves a lubricant oil on its finish , wipe it on till dry , pete 

[WHX?? 51,773]

I'll get you that link when I get a chance Bob. It off the jungle site but I bet McMaster has them. Guess they are for the RC boat hobby. 

@Burnerman talk to @dclarke about the motor setup. He's  the one that built the one on mine.

[dclarke 4,082]

11 hours ago, WHX24 said:

 

@Burnerman talk to @dclarke about the motor setup. He's  the one that built the one on mine.

 I used a power seat motor from the jungle site and I’d have to do some looking at home to find out where I got the switches but I won’t be home for another week.  On second thought, Jim I think I may have given you the paperwork on that seat motor and those switches. You might look if you get a chance. Here’s a few pics of what I used. 

Edited September 27, 2020 by dclarke

[wallfish 18,117]

Double momentary switch so just let off and it stops. Power in to the center 2 posts and reverse the polarities on the outer posts to reverse direction of the motor.

https://www.surpluscenter.com/Electrical/Switches/Toggle-Switches/DPDT-CO-20-Amp-Momentary-Toggle-Switch-66-1851-11-3259.axd

 

The motor on mine is a power window motor but you can use just about any good dc motor with high torque and low rpm. Something like this

https://www.amazon.com/Makermotor-Shaft-Reversible-Electric-Motor/dp/B01N8YDOC9/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=12v+dc+motor&qid=1601159410&sr=8-6

 

Then used a small actuator for controlling the chute with another of the same switch.

[peter lena 9,279]

dclarke, like the looks on your chute rotation set up , i am sure that you have detailed it to be very smooth and easy to use. typically i have found w/h anything , needs a little tweaking and lubrication to make it effortless in its function , good reference point for similar upgrades on w/h , pete 

[dclarke 4,082]

1 hour ago, peter lena said:

dclarke, like the looks on your chute rotation set up , i am sure that you have detailed it to be very smooth and easy to use. typically i have found w/h anything , needs a little tweaking and lubrication to make it effortless in its function , good reference point for similar upgrades on w/h , pete 

Thanks Pete, it works well. 

[WheelhorseBob 1,550]

Really like those electric options. Maybe next season. Thanks for the ideas!

[JohnD 145]

On 9/26/2020 at 8:31 AM, peter lena said:

like your belt guard aeration holes

What are these for?  Keeping the belt cooler?  Letting the smoke out when things go bad? 

[R Scheer 505]

Supposed to allow better engine cooling.  Apparently there's not much air flow around the rear cylinder.  At least that's my understanding.

[WheelhorseBob 1,550]

Yes to increase airflow around the rear cylinder. Not sure how effective it is but it does let some air pass. Can't hurt!

[peter lena 9,279]

onan twins have a regular issue with valve seat burn spots , especially on the rear cylinder , doesn't it make sense to increase the cooling air intake to that area , really ? i know that i regularly change up a nagging problem , just because the vents were not there in initial build up , does not mean that you cannot improve on it. that's like keeping a chronic wiring issue , because it was built that  way. jmoe , pete 

[lynnmor 7,824]

Actually the cooling air is blown thru the engine fins and exhausts on the belt side.  The added holes may be of some help but since the air is forced in it will blow out and turn as it hits the belt guard.  The rear cylinder valve seat issue, in my opinion, is more of a maintenance issue with the cylinder fins becoming clogged with debris.  Also, it doesn't help that the oil filter and oil pressure switch block cooling air and if there is seepage or spills that oil coating will collect debris.  The rubber gasket around the oil filter is often missing and cooling air escapes, so be sure it is in place.

[WheelhorseBob 1,550]

When I modified my belt guard I ran the tractor with the belt guard off to see where the holes might be most effective. I think I got close. I would agree that spilled oil not cleaned when changing filters along with grass clippings is a prime culprit.

Edited September 28, 2020 by WheelhorseBob

[WHX?? 51,773]

On 9/26/2020 at 4:59 PM, dclarke said:

Jim I think I may have given you the paperwork on that seat motor and those switches.

Pretty certain you did let me know if you need them Bob.