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520XI (73540) Ignition Switch Woes

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pullstart

So, I have a broken ignition switch.  Kids, what can ya do...

 

The IPL for this model shows a different looking diagram than the switch I have.  The wiring appears factory as there are no hacks in the harness.  Possibly the terminals were moved in the block?

 

my Junk switch is as such...  I don’t actually see a B on the tabs, but process of elimination says it should be this way:

 

    S

A.     B

M.     G

 

The IPL shows otherwise.  How do I find the right switch when it doesn’t make total sense?

 

 

4C7DA96C-3C20-48BD-A957-6BDECC57DFDD.jpeg

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01F5DBFA-1BB8-4A6B-83EC-233A5F207F99.jpeg

B6933925-2E92-45E6-B092-B48024D585FC.jpeg

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gwest_ca

Should be this one. Have seen it noted that the terminals on some switches are not correctly identified but not this one. Hope the old one works enough that you can determine how it functions.

Garry

p7-140.jpg

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Tractorhead

As long as it have worked before, i would exchange it with the same to replace.

The M Pin on you Keyswitch pointed to a Magneto ignition or it may be have an additional stop relais that will be activated via that Pin.

 

if you be able to verify, measure with an ohmmeter while in off position the M(Magneto) pin, it must be switched to G(ground).

If key switch is in on (independently if Run or Start) position between M and G must be floated.

As long as the contacts are not completely burned, they must normally show the given Values.

 

In off position M must be switched to G

in On Position ( ignition or run) must be a connection between B(Battery) and A(Accessories) -  M must be floated

in Start position must be a connection between B( Battery) and A(Accessories) and S (Start) - M must be floated

 

 

It can also be, that the M Terminal is still available but not really connected or it is used for a stop relay.

If it‘s not connected, they must use the A pin for ignition and lights or Accessories.

i you was able to switch the lights on even only with ignition but without running Engine, i think that‘s what they doing.

 

You can verify with an ohmmeter if you measure on the Tractor, the G pin must normally be connected to ground

i had a same thing on a MTD i checked for a friend, they missused the M pin to act a stop relais.

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pullstart

The switch that I have is stuck, but in my experience the magneto pin is simply a kill/ground.  I’ll play with the meter and some jumper son the tractor and make sure I have what I need for proper operation.  I know it’s been talked about before, but is there an easy method to move the terminals in a connector?

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pfrederi

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953 nut

I have  used a thin "O" Ring pick to get the Delphi Packard 56 terminals out of the plug body.

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953 nut

Kevin, are there any numbers on the old switch?   I have never seen a "G" marking on any :wh: ignition switch. Could be a previous owner used what he could get and swapped wires around. Has the "KILL RELAY" been bypassed?

The "Demystification Guide" is a bit mystifying.    :confusion-confused:    The switch they show for a 1998 520XI has terminals labeled S, R, B, I and L. What the heck is the "L"?   None of the individual circuit drawings show any terminal "L" but several do have "A".         :angry-tappingfoot:         What the heck is with that.

If your kill switch is wired as it should be     and         if the ignition switch terminals shown in the "Demystification Guide" are the wires in the plug body rather than the switch         and          there have been no alterations to the wiring then the good old 103 990 will do the job,   I THINK.    :hide:

Switch Ignition 103990 & 103991 Comparison.jpg

835195479_Screenshot(51).png.c5fe488e758212ee0d254924d8cc7afa.png

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gwest_ca

These tractors do not have a light switch so the 4th key position powers the lights with the L terminal.

 

The A position in some illustrations is incorrect in many. To develop the info they copied from older established drawings which was a mistake.

 

One indicator this happened is the legend for wire colors does not match the wire colors. Different letters or letter types.

 

Some of the gas air-cooled model diagrams include drawings copied from the water cooled Kawasaki models which is incorrect. Working on getting them corrected but a huge process.

 

My guess is he has the correct switch but the terminals are not labeled correctly.

 

Garry

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Tractorhead
4 hours ago, 953 nut said:

Kevin, are there any numbers on the old switch?   I have never seen a "G" marking on any :wh: ignition switch. Could be a previous owner used what he could get and swapped wires around. Has the "KILL RELAY" been bypassed?

The "Demystification Guide" is a bit mystifying.    :confusion-confused:    The switch they show for a 1998 520XI has terminals labeled S, R, B, I and L. What the heck is the "L"?   None of the individual circuit drawings show any terminal "L" but several do have "A".         :angry-tappingfoot:         What the heck is with that.

If your kill switch is wired as it should be     and         if the ignition switch terminals shown in the "Demystification Guide" are the wires in the plug body rather than the switch         and          there have been no alterations to the wiring then the good old 103 990 will do the job,   I THINK.    :hide:

Switch Ignition 103990 & 103991 Comparison.jpg

835195479_Screenshot(51).png.c5fe488e758212ee0d254924d8cc7afa.png

 

 

Hi Richard,

the key Switches with the L ( Light) terminal will interrupt the L line while starting.

Except this, the rest of handling is similar to Line I or line A.

The A line( Accessoires)  is the same handling like the I line (Ignition) is allway‘s on also in Start position except in Key Off position.

 

The Accessory line not allway‘s will be switched to ground, that depends on Keyswitch and Brand.

 

 

Edited by Tractorhead
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gwest_ca

Parts Tree list the 92-6785 switch at $49.24

 

https://www.psep1.biz/arinet.asp#/s/TO//92-6785/1/

list it at 34.85 and understand they have a reasonable flat shipping charge. Good to add to the order if there are other parts you need.

 

Strange that other replacement parts suppliers do not have a replacement for this one that Toro has used since about 1994.

 

Garry

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pullstart

Fellas, thanks for so much insight!  I realize that something here is goofy as all get out.  I’ll see if I can take the switch apart to reverse engineer the thing.  I’ve had one apart for cleaning in the past, this is swedged just the same anyway.  

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bds1984

Last year I had a 520xi that was basically given to me because the PO couldn't figure out why the machine was dead.  Something in the switch was stuck like yours so for $35 I bought a new 92-6785 switch and had a perfectly running machine.  I think that as long as you have a switch with a ground terminal to kill the ignition, you can make it work as I have on the M18 Kohler I put in an otherwise gutted, but now functioning 520H.

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