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DBlackston

Wire type | 653 and 854

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DBlackston

First let's say I am electrically challenged but I can read a blueprint. I have an 854 and a 653 needing new wiring. I have found the diagrams of the wiring but they don't list gauges, or types.

 

Anyone have suggestions on a type of wire or gauge of wire? 

 

There's a million options for wire types and I am lost.

FB_IMG_1521663869701.jpg

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ebinmaine

Pure multi strand copper. (Not 1 solid wire).

Not CCA. That stands for Copper Clad Aluminum and some say the 2 metals can corrode each other in the long run.

 

14 gauge except battery cables.

 

I bought a roll of 7 conductor trailer wiring harness. I separate the wires and it gives me 7 different colors.

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Tractorhead

Wire dimension is a depending on Several things primary Current consumption (A) and cablelenght.(m)

And cabletype ( singleinsulated doubleinsulated in a Package or free) resulting in resistance and voltage Loss.

And serveral things more.

 

For a Tractor with fixed 12Volts you can use a simple thumbrule to estimate what you need.

I get little more up for more safety and less resistance while continouse use at full Load.

 

Cause my timeline at lunch is short just a few options in square mm / meter = sqm ( there are lots of calculators online in AWG)

 

up to 10A = 0,75 sqm

up to 15A = 1,5  sqm

up to 20A = 2,5  sqm

up to 30A = 4  sqm

up to 50A = 6 sqm

up to 60A = 10 sqm

up to 80A = 16 sqm

up to 120A = 25 sqm

up to 180A = 35 sqm

up to 225A = 50 sqm

 

So i used for a Starter on my Wheelhorse Engine a 25sqm, what seems a bit oversized.

 

please install in each power wire a fitting Fuse close to the Battery.

so you be safe in case of any Fail.

 

I use an 80 A Fuse for the Whole battery system to Starterwire and a 25A fuse to ignition Key

And out of ignition key to each consumer a fitting fuse.

so no system can be flatened another and a seek for a fail goes quick.

different colors simplify that even more.

 

That shall give you a quick groundline to rewire your Tractor

 

 

Below a link for convert awg to mm2

 

https://www.sab-kabel.de/kabel-konfektion-temperaturmesstechnik/technische-daten/kabel-leitungen/amerikanischer-litzenaufbau.html

 

Edited by Tractorhead
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953 nut
8 hours ago, DBlackston said:

I have an 854 and a 653 needing new wiring.

:text-coolphotos:

I would use #4 battery cables and #16 or #14 for ignition wiring. Any good auto parts store will have small rolls of wire and the terminals you will need.

If you have any questions along the way don;t hesitate to ask.

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DBlackston

Well I am finally getting back into some of my projects after a long hiatus. 

 

I found this diagram to help me out in the manuals section.

 

1436572974_Tractor1964854WiringRev.jpg.82509e0ab557855bb891207433196a46.jpg.d84e64abf71d5ffedac1c0fcfbb214ee.jpg

 

Can anyone tell me if the red wire on the right hand side should be the 12ga or the 5awg?

 

I plan on using 4awg and 14awg as suggested here. 

Edited by DBlackston
Typo

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ebinmaine
24 minutes ago, DBlackston said:

Well I am finally getting back into some of my projects after a long hiatus. 

 

I found this diagram to help me out in the manuals section.

 

1436572974_Tractor1964854WiringRev.jpg.82509e0ab557855bb891207433196a46.jpg.d84e64abf71d5ffedac1c0fcfbb214ee.jpg

 

Can anyone tell me if the red wire on the right hand side should be the 16ga or the 5awg?

 

I plan on using 4awg and 14awg as suggested here. 

 

Likely was 14 from the factory.  

I'd use 12 gauge FULL Copper if possible. 

 

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Handy Don
15 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

 

Likely was 14 from the factory.  

I'd use 12 gauge FULL Copper if possible. 

 

 

41 minutes ago, DBlackston said:

I plan on using 4awg and 14awg as suggested here. 

 

4 Ga is overkill, really, IMHO.

The recommended 6 ga is perfectly adequate as even stranded can be quite hard to wrangle, especially at the ends connected to the ignition switch. 

Similarly, I used the recommended 14 Ga (see the "all other wires 14 Ga" note) for the ignition to coil (red) connection on my 854.

Probably more important is to make sure the connections are solid and protected from corrosion--I use dielectric grease but others use vaseline!

 

BTW, if you plan to add lights or other powered accessories and don't have an L connector at the Voltage Regulator, attach them via a fuse at the IGN connection at the switch.

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953 nut
1 hour ago, DBlackston said:

I plan on using 4awg

As @Handy Don said the 4 AWG is overkill. Go to your favorite welding supply house with the old cables in hand and have them make up a new set of 6 AWG cables with the correct ends. Connections to the ignition switch behind the dash will be much easier with supple new wire.

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peter lena

@953 nut  agree with you on the 6 ga wire ,  another opportunity while in the area , is to directly ground to the battery cable / bolt  point with a seperate  cable to enhance grounding . don't just count on a grounding spot , verify connections from a solid spot , all too often grounds are lost , in rust , and cracking connections . since going that route , my electrical set up is rock solid , often use a bolt on electrical lug to bolt mount , pete

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