Haficon 12 #1 Posted July 11, 2020 (edited) Hello, While on deployment my wife ran our wheel horse with out oil and seized the K301. So I picked up a K341. Got it into the tractor will require a little more retro fitting but should work. so where I am no is a no spark, I ripped all the wiring out and re did it all following a diagram here. I left out all the safety switches, so engine spins, but no spark. new coil, new condenser, points are gaped, I have 12v at the positive side of the coil with the key on, 12v at the points, and 12v on the negative side of the coil all with the key on. The center of the coil where the plug wire goes also has 12v with the key on... But no spark to the plug. Wire tested good I am picking up a new o e tomorrow just because, new plug and also check with old plug... what am I missing? the voltage regulator is not hooked up. James Blue Edited July 11, 2020 by Haficon Add pictures. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,483 #2 Posted July 11, 2020 Take the spark plug out so the engine is easier to turn over by hand. Put the test light to the coil (-). Should have power when the points are open but 0 volts when the points are closed. If you don't get the 0 the points are not making electrical contact when closed or are not closing. May need to clean the contacts to make good connection. Garry 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #3 Posted July 12, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, gwest_ca said: Take the spark plug out so the engine is easier to turn over by hand. Put the test light to the coil (-). Should have power when the points are open but 0 volts when the points are closed. If you don't get the 0 the points are not making electrical contact when closed or are not closing. May need to clean the contacts to make good connection. Garry Sounds good, so I have had the plug removed the whole time, points are in like new condition they are not very old I did clean them and gapped. Turning the engine by hand you can see the spark at the pints but not every rotation. With my meter I am getting a constant 12v at the negative post as well as the plug wire connection on the coil. I will try to dig out my old test light it is birdied somewhere and try it I. The coil see what I come up with but the meter reading constant 12v makes me thing the light will show the same. But I appreciate the help I will start over checking points clean, check gap and go from there... So from that I dug up is you set the points at TDC which is when the rod should be all the way out. Also I cleaned the block really well where the point bolt up so the ground good... going to check for continuity between the block and negative frame connection I have no idea why this just dawned on me but will check. Back tomorrow hopefully make some progress. james Edited July 12, 2020 by Haficon Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #4 Posted July 12, 2020 So jumped on it real quick test light in the coil no light, I have 12v on one side of the points, while spinning the engine the negative side stays hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,452 #5 Posted July 12, 2020 Coil (-) wired to the points. Somewhere, there is an open. If you short the coil(-) to ground, you should get a spark on the plug - after a few tries as you won't make a clean break. Seems you want to check the wire to the points and that the terminal on the points will ground at TDC. Almost there! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #6 Posted July 12, 2020 6 minutes ago, Tuneup said: Coil (-) wired to the points. Somewhere, there is an open. If you short the coil(-) to ground, you should get a spark on the plug - after a few tries as you won't make a clean break. Seems you want to check the wire to the points and that the terminal on the points will ground at TDC. Almost there! ok I replaced the wire from the points to the coil, 100% new 10gauge wire. I will try jumping the coil to ground thanks. James Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,452 #7 Posted July 12, 2020 So, when you rotate the crank to TDC, the coil (-) should drop to 0V and the coil will charge. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Haficon 12 #8 Posted July 12, 2020 53 minutes ago, Tuneup said: So, when you rotate the crank to TDC, the coil (-) should drop to 0V and the coil will charge. ok so I checked everything all over again, so he led all my wiring, tested everything for continuity, everything even block to frame is good. Cleaned points again, verified gap, same results... got a really dumb look on my face sat back looked at it, checking (-) side still 12v. Opened and closed the point several times with my finger and I hear piping at the coil... reinstall the plug and plug wire and boom boom boom... she runs... thank everyone for all the help, it is. Or complete I have to hook up gas tank get it running on it’s own fuel supply. Reinstall the PTO and all that headache of brackets, belts but it is alive... got the engine for free so I just could not give up.... 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,452 #9 Posted July 12, 2020 Fantastic news! Wondering if the pushrod was just a little gummed and pushing on it forced it through for a closure. After all, you're measuring the gap - open. Just one of those things. Feed it the proper level of oil and good fuel and she'll run nearly forever. As a kid, the kohlers were the gold standard for us. We could only score Briggs and Tecs in the yards behind the tractor sellers. There's a reason why Kohlers weren't scrapped. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
