Jump to content
Sailman

NEED ADVICE on Kohler 301Head Gasket repai

Recommended Posts

Sailman

Found a decent C-120 auto plus attachments. PO used it for plowing garden but it sat for last few years. He said he thought something was wrong with the engine, maybe a rod knocking. It runs real smooth at low prm and sitting at higher rpms BUT when I put some load on it it bogged down bad and started smoking and then a pinging noise. Suspect it was head gasket due to oil weeping out right side of engine.

Soooo I pulled the head today and was pleasantly surprised as it looked good. Std piston with no wobble, gaps in bore or ridges in cylinder. Valves looked good (holding paper tight on closing) and after clean up all seems good. Used carb cleaner, brass brush and finished off with 1000 grit.

First picture shows where the oil was leaking over the gasket. Plan to plane the head before installing new gasket.

Next 3 pictures show the cleaned up parts.

BUT... as i was finger tight cleaning bolt holes with 5/16 tap I had 1 hole that the tap just went in and out with no threading! Bolt seems to tighten up fine. Have video showing tap.

Tempted to just see if the bolt will tighten up to specs and go with it. Was snug when I broke the bolts loose.

Any thoughts on what I should do??

IMG_7053.JPG

IMG_7054.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

picture of gasket (oil weep on right side) and cylinder bore.

IMG_7055.JPG

IMG_7056.JPG

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

And of course the disappearing 5/16 tap....

Just when I thought it was all going swimmingly...

Sorry for the noise, fan running in shop.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX24

Tap/bolt  size should be 3/8-16 thread. Looks like things cleaned up real nice. Possibly could have a broken ring(s).

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

Last questions,

1. Can I check / adjust the valve lash before I put the head back on? Seems ideal to tell piston TDC with valves closed.

2. Set the points gap at the same time (putting in new points)

 

Really appreciate the help and advice from the folks on this forum. The 120 makes my second horse. (yes, I know...I was warned...) Much simpler than the GT 14 and lots of attachments.

Thanks!!

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
12 minutes ago, Sailman said:

BUT... as i was finger tight cleaning bolt holes with 5/16 tap I had 1 hole that the tap just went in and out with no threading!

 

2 minutes ago, WHX24 said:

Tap/bolt  size should be 3/8-16 thread

 

:text-yeahthat:

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

Any way to check the rings without pulling the piston? Would I not have oil on the piston, fouled plug or scoring on the cylinder with broken ring (s)?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
2 minutes ago, Sailman said:

1. Can I check / adjust the valve lash before I put the head back on? Seems ideal to tell piston TDC with valves closed.

2. Set the points gap at the same time (putting in new points)

 

You should be able to do both with the head off.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

3/8 huh....well that solved that issue...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut

As long as that bolt will torque to 30 Ft/Pounds it should be all right. Be sure to do another round of torquing after the first run.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX24

Yes you can check them with the head off. I forget the actual specs but some guys go to the tight side to help with valve clatter. 

30 Richard ??? I go 35 then just a smidge over after 1st run.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX24

Use a thread lube. Anti sieze works for me but oil will do. Use a new gasket. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

I believe there is a specific order to tightening the bolts too. Will look it up in the kohler manual.

New head gasket from "I save tractors" ok?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
8 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Any way to check the rings without pulling the piston? Would I not have oil on the piston, fouled plug or scoring on the cylinder with broken ring (s)?

 

If you pull the piston out you will have to replace the rings.

 

If the piston was carbon covered when you took the head off, then your rings are good. If the top of the piston was clean then you rings are bad. A small amount of clean piston around the outer edge is acceptable, less than 1/8" clean area.

  • Like 1
  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
WHX24
5 minutes ago, Sailman said:

I believe there is a specific order to tightening the bolts too. Will look it up in the kohler manual.

New head gasket from "I save tractors" ok?

Yes in the manual and yes I save has acceptable gaskets.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

Carbon covered...please elaborate. I had some crusty build up that had to be scraped off, maybe 5-10% top of piston. Also had carbon layer (not crust) that took a good bit of scrubbing with brass brush and carb cleaner to get to clean piston top (able to see the STD).

Was also some carbon build up between the valves and piston. Is that carbon covered?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
22 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Carbon covered...please elaborate

 

The piston on the left has severe oil leakage past the rings. The piston in the middle has more oil leakage past the rings than I would care for. The piston on the right is what you would like to see when you pull the head off. The rings on this piston are sealing properly.

1487853926_pistontop.jpg.20a0a63dccd2643dbd6b8425c219413d.jpg

Edited by Achto
  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

Sorry I am confused....your first post stated the opposite of the examples in the pictures.

 

"If the piston was carbon covered when you took the head off, then your rings are good. If the top of the piston was clean then you rings are bad. A small amount of clean piston around the outer edge is acceptable, less than 1/8" clean area."

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
6 minutes ago, Sailman said:

Sorry I am confused....

 

:doh:Apparently I am too.:ROTF: Read it again I fixed it.:thumbs2:

Edited by Achto
  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
The Tuul Crib
7 minutes ago, Achto said:

 

Apparently I am too.:ROTF: Read it again I fixed it.:thumbs2:

:text-yeahthat:and l stay that way !! :confusion-confused:

  • Haha 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

WHoo HOooo! Mine looked like the piston on the right. Lightly covered in carbon. So rings ARE sealed as they should be...right?

  • Excellent 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Achto
2 minutes ago, Sailman said:

So rings ARE sealed as they should be...right?

 

Signs say yes.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
The Tuul Crib
3 minutes ago, Sailman said:

WHoo HOooo! Mine looked like the piston on the right. Lightly covered in carbon. So rings ARE sealed as they should be...right?

Have you done a compression check ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Sailman

Have not done compression check. Engine ran fine no smoke until it was loaded up. Looks like it had a head gasket leak and my guess is the head needs planing. Will do that, install new gasket, check the valve lash, new points and see what she does.

If I still have issues then, will do a compression check. 

Will keep all posted.

Thanks for all the help!

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oliver2-44

If thats a Kohler, it has ACR (Automatic Compression Release) at slow rotating starting speed.  You cannot do an accurate compression check on them.

If you have access to the precision tools, or know someone who has them, now would be a great time to record the cylinder bore measurements at near top and at bottom of stroke.  

  • Excellent 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...