BrianX128 109 #1 Posted June 8, 2020 I'll post a video up when I get a better connection but my wife's kt17 is surely dead. Horrid knock, both pistons still have 90psi and spark but it sounds like a main bearing or something deep knocking. There's a k series 14hp and a magnum 14hp near me I can get for 300-400$. This kt17 has been mostly disappointing, it's likely tired and needing a full rebuild if it didn't self destruct. Just curious if I can mount a magnum or k series the same way this kt was mounted. The magnum 14 I have on my old c141 has been the most impressive small engine I've had yet, I can't believe the power it has on my old 48" deck. Also curious if it robs more power being a hydro on the kt17 I'd be replacing with one of these engines. I guess if anyone has any advice of where to dig into the broken kt17 first but I need to get the mower going before I tear into the carnage. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,194 #2 Posted June 8, 2020 You should rebuild the kt17 is it a series 1? even if it is if you pull it take it apart and check it out if it isnt to bad i personally would rebuild. isavetractor.com sells a kit to i believe. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,670 #3 Posted June 8, 2020 I would not bother to rebuild a KT17 series one and I have a bunch of them and like them a lot..... You are going to be into serious money for parts and machine shop work. Rods are $50 each as are pistons so 200 just for that throw in gaskets and stuff you are getting up there. Do you have access to a good machine shop two cylinders to bore and two crank journals here would be another 200.... if it was a series 2 maybe ... Spec number 24300 and up is series 2. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #4 Posted June 8, 2020 It's a series 2, it ran good until yesterday, most of the issues I've had with it were not related to the internal engine itself just carb and fuel delivery issues and a bad spark plug. Yesterday it magically started whatever this knock is and ate all of it's oil down to the bottom of the dipstick before she stopped mowing, more oil didn't help and I checked the compression and it was still good. That's about all I know for now. I'll dig in more, going to pull the engine off the frame tonight if I get time. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bottjernat1 2,194 #5 Posted June 8, 2020 1 minute ago, BrianX128 said: It's a series 2, it ran good until yesterday, most of the issues I've had with it were not related to the internal engine itself just carb and fuel delivery issues and a bad spark plug. Yesterday it magically started whatever this knock is and ate all of it's oil down to the bottom of the dipstick before she stopped mowing, more oil didn't help and I checked the compression and it was still good. That's about all I know for now. I'll dig in more, going to pull the engine off the frame tonight if I get time. Good deal then. I would definitely rebuild if you can. I said what i said because i have several shops around me that can bore and clean up pretty cheap for me. I have torn several of these engines apart and there isnt much to them. And if you have any issues this site has alot of good folks who can help you out! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #6 Posted June 8, 2020 Yeah I at least want to tear into it to see what it would take, but I'm going to have to try and get a K series or a magnum kohler on this tractor in the meantime, my wife hates manual tractors and my yard is still a massive pain to mow by myself on a big zero turn. I'm hoping a magnum can bolt to the frame with the same mounting points as a KT series. I think it's the same but can't find a for sure answer of that searching during downtime at work today. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #7 Posted June 8, 2020 Metal in the oil.. a lot.. blah Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper 1,789 #8 Posted June 8, 2020 (edited) Please STOP running it, if you want a chance at saving it They are notorious for getting loose nuts on the rods, and then they start knocking, and if you keep running just a bit more, you bust the rod and most likely the crank too. Next step if you keep going, it gets a lot of extra crank ventilation in random places. That's of cause just my guess, as to what may be wrong Edited June 8, 2020 by Skipper 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,995 #9 Posted June 8, 2020 My long distance diagnosis would be a connecting rod bolt has broken and the rod is about ready to be launched. The KT has a battery ignition system and the Magnum has a magneto so a relay is all you would need electrically. If it had been on a the oil pan should bolt right up. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #10 Posted June 8, 2020 I stopped running it trust me. Didn't want to leave it on for the video but figured 10 seconds was worth the diagnosing. Any good link to a teardowns? I'll probably buy the other tractor anyway for 300 and it has a plow, if the engine has hidden garbage at least I have another good chassis, trans, and get a plow out of the deal. I already forsee issues with that though, carb is in an awful spot compared to a kt17 for linkages, electric I'm good with I've done the relay swap before so I'm at least semi comfortable there. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skipper 1,789 #11 Posted June 9, 2020 There is a complete manual for the KT in the manuals section The hard part to locate will be the rods if you come to need those. I know there is a place that makes new ones out of billet, but they are expensive. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tuneup 1,452 #12 Posted June 9, 2020 Ah, Pennsy. Old Kohlers and Wheel Horses laying about for the taking... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #13 Posted June 9, 2020 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DR6hX3rgUvI So I'd assume this is all but a death sentence for the motor, front piston seems solid and had 90psi of compression, valves move good. Rear piston had 85, valves move good, piston moves a good 1/4 of an inch no matter where it sits on the crank in rotation. I'm guessing there is no chance it magically wore out just the rod and the crank survived the incident? It's 95 degrees and super humid here today, no AC in the upper garage so that's as far as I'm tearing into it today and I don't know how to get into it further without watching some more instructions. Worst part is the magnum 14 near me sold, now the only option I have short of another tractor entirely to either use it or rob the engine is a 12 hp K series that is 3 different colors and looks like it's 3 different motors for 250, and I'm scared 12hp wouldn't play nice with the hydro even with only a 42" deck on this thing. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,670 #14 Posted June 10, 2020 I run a 48" deck on a 12hp Charger Works OK. Just have to go A bit slower if the grass is really heavy... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #15 Posted June 10, 2020 I also found a C161 with an original K series 16hp, still an 8 speed so I'd be swapping the engine, and it's more money but it also comes with a rear discharge deck which would be nice for the areas of my yard near the back porch and firepit areas, I have a yard sweeper and usually sweep that part of the yard so it looks nicer, just waiting to hear back from the seller if he still has it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #16 Posted June 10, 2020 2 hours ago, pfrederi said: I run a 48" deck on a 12hp Charger Works OK. Just have to go A bit slower if the grass is really heavy... agree 12 hp will do just about anything - but gotta go slower (especially) if you are cutting tall grass and even more so on an incline this is where the Kohler and Onan twins excel - especially the Onan 20 hp (with 32+ ft pd torque) - big step up Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goofey 89 #17 Posted June 10, 2020 3 hours ago, tom2p said: this is where the Kohler and Onan twins excel - especially the Onan 20 hp (with 32+ ft pd torque) - big step up This evenings episode is brought to you and sponsored by Onan Engines. Worlds best engine. Trust us. Its our customers who say so. This has never been thru our marketing department at all. Which dont exist at all. Cus we don't need it at all. We that goood!!!! Sorry. Could'n help it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #18 Posted June 10, 2020 (edited) Well I got a 16hp replacement engine, just so happens it came with an entire tractor. Unfortunately though I feel guilty the engine is getting stolen to go on the 417a and this thing will be engineless. Just no way around that for now.. My kt17 must have been half dead the whole time I had it, I'm haven't swapped it yet but the last time I mowed up a hill in the front yard going slowly with moderately high grass it was bogging down hard. This thing just mowed the same hill for kicks in second and barely bogged. We'll see how much power the hydro robs from it. So since I'm going from kt to k series I don't think I'm in for as much wiring wise, but the kt had a black plug with two wires going to the engine and that was it. The k series seems to have more.. I'm guessing the rectifier mounted under the battery is going to come along for the ride, but I might need to start from scratch on the wiring. The kt was pretty hacked from the previous owner. Edited June 10, 2020 by BrianX128 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BrianX128 109 #19 Posted June 14, 2020 Fyi, it's all back together with it's new engine. Not the most fun swap ever, here's a list of everything that doesn't work: Throttle cable too short Choke too short unless you use zip ties and new routing. Wrong drive pulley [4" vs 5 1/4"] Need 80" belt because of that Rectifier needs a home Axle in the way of shaker plate mounting holes PTO wrong size unless you have the k series pto like I did. Fuel line too short [easy] Starter cable wayyyy too long And lastly I have no patience. Personal problem there.. I hate the rear discharge deck. Tried it, only can stomach it with a yard sweeper behind it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AMC RULES 37,196 #20 Posted June 14, 2020 Ever try mowing in reverse with that rear discharge? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
tom2p 2,394 #21 Posted June 14, 2020 39 minutes ago, BrianX128 said: Fyi, it's all back together with it's new engine. Not the most fun swap ever, here's a list of everything that doesn't work: Throttle cable too short Choke too short unless you use zip ties and new routing. Wrong drive pulley [4" vs 5 1/4"] Need 80" belt because of that Rectifier needs a home Axle in the way of shaker plate mounting holes PTO wrong size unless you have the k series pto like I did. Fuel line too short [easy] Starter cable wayyyy too long And lastly I have no patience. Personal problem there.. I hate the rear discharge deck. Tried it, only can stomach it with a yard sweeper behind it. nice work - you got it running rear discharge (RD) might be an 'acquired taste' I used a RD deck almost exclusively for around 30 years - still have one now on one tractor I use on occasion to avoid the cut grass 'clumping' and yard to look better: raise front of deck - cut higher - and cut more frequently Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
redone 45 #22 Posted June 22, 2020 On 6/8/2020 at 4:06 PM, BrianX128 said: Metal in the oil.. a lot.. blah I just found the same problem. After rebuilt. Ran great at idle. Shut it off, came back an hour later, dam it started knocking.at idle speed. Back to the drawing board. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites