Razorback 1,032 #1 Posted June 5, 2020 Is there such a thing as converting from a lift cable to either a lift bar or chain?? (or something else I have not thought of?) This is on a 1974 C-160. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 59,549 #2 Posted June 5, 2020 We’ve talked about snaking a 3/8” rod up through the tunnel, but I can’t recall anyone showing pictures of such a thing.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,032 #3 Posted June 5, 2020 (edited) I'm gonna have to look at it and see if I can "make something fit". (Remember the old Midas muffler commercial??? " My buddy, Leroy, here will MAKE it fit.") Edited June 5, 2020 by Razorback 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,959 #4 Posted June 5, 2020 I've not tried it. I remember some mention of the angles not being quite right to run a solid link through the transmission tunnel without causing excessive wear someplace. 'course my memory is a bit.... What were we sayin again? 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,511 #5 Posted June 5, 2020 A solid rod would present a couple of problems. The rock shaft on your lift makes an arc as it moves and the lift at the rear of the also makes an arc, both of which are lower than the top of your transmission. A bracket could be fabricated to fit a small 12 volt linear actuator to the lift. when you do it. 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,844 #7 Posted June 5, 2020 Depends on the model. I think it was Bud Andrews had a solid rod maybe 5/16" to the slot hitch on a 60's tractor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,211 #8 Posted June 5, 2020 Are you breaking cables? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,032 #9 Posted June 5, 2020 12 minutes ago, Lee1977 said: Are you breaking cables? I broke one last year..... just got me wondering..... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,959 #10 Posted June 5, 2020 6 minutes ago, Razorback said: last year How old was that one? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Lee1977 6,211 #11 Posted June 5, 2020 You best option is to install a chain to the equipment and attach it to the tractor to take the tention of the cable when it's all the way out. if you broke it while lifting not a lot you can do about that. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Cvans 1,009 #12 Posted June 5, 2020 I don't remember having issues with the cable. It was missing when I got the tractor and don't remember how I made it but it lifted some pretty heavy loads. I'm afraid that running a rod following the track of the cable would be very difficult to do. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
8ntruck 6,358 #13 Posted June 5, 2020 I'm watching this thread with some interest. My 14-8 has the rock shaft and cable tube, but no cable. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,032 #14 Posted June 5, 2020 1 hour ago, ebinmaine said: How old was that one? No telling how old it was. Maybe original. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldnboy 746 #15 Posted June 5, 2020 Here is how it works 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,959 #16 Posted June 5, 2020 I don't have any tractors at home with cables to lift. I do work for a living with a crane and also proper securement of variable loads to a flatbed truck. We use WLL which stands for Working Load Limit. I'm not sure what size a horse cable is so I'll use 1/8" as an example. The WLL is 400 pounds or so with a break strength of around 2000 pounds. That's a Safety Factor of 5:1. Age, corrosion, exceeding the "stop point" will all cause catastrophic failure of the cable. Another cause not often considered is metal fatigue. Minor flexing of steel causes very little fatigue but Will eventually snap the cable. Add a little rust.... Where as that cable style goes through a tunnel that isn't meant to deal with wear caused by friction it might be best to keep the cased cable and add a very strong spring to the end to prevent exceeding the "stop point". 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,032 #17 Posted June 5, 2020 50 minutes ago, Goldnboy said: Here is how it works Curious if that will work on my C-160 8-speed.... will look into it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,032 #18 Posted June 5, 2020 7 hours ago, bottjernat1 said: Funny! The one I remember is Midas.... two guys in front of a small car on a lift. Big guy "Leroy" is holding a huge, long muffler. Customer says, "Are you sure it will fit?" The brains of the two workers says, "My buddy, Leroy, here will MAKE it fit." Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 62,959 #19 Posted June 5, 2020 10 minutes ago, Razorback said: Curious if that will work on my C-160 8-speed.... will look into it. I'm thinking it should. The lever and end lift point should be in similar locations... Keep us posted. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WVHillbilly520H 10,369 #20 Posted June 6, 2020 This is the linkage and top link or rear rockshaft on a Cub Cadet Original that I grew up on I'm sure with a little bit of Hillbilly ingenuity other solid rear lift lever/links could be on order of this... 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Razorback 1,032 #21 Posted June 6, 2020 Yes,I also have a Cub 123. I really like the lift mechanism on that GT..... very strong and capable. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
