ebinmaine 63,282 #101 Posted August 20, 2020 On 8/18/2020 at 7:19 AM, Greentored said: Next experiment is to do a cylinder head only Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #102 Posted September 4, 2020 Just a quick update for those who might've taken interest in this thread: The torque monster is running like a champ! Ignition timing and governor set with timing light (it was only turning 3000-3050rpm! peaks at 3800 now, will need linkage mods to reach 4000, which is the absolute limit I plan to spin her) Switching over to 93 octane this weekend. Next up- long tube header, bored and tricked #30 carb, deeper air cleaner assembly with integrated velocity stack. Not sure how much power shes actually making, but can tell you its very strong! 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,282 #103 Posted September 4, 2020 Do you have access to a small engine dynamometer? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,876 #104 Posted September 4, 2020 On 7/15/2020 at 8:34 PM, Greentored said: Would you share how deep you ground the reliefs in the top of the block Also When you ported the intake did you Machine it larger or just grind it smooth and polish it. Was the exhaust also ported? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #105 Posted September 4, 2020 2 hours ago, ebinmaine said: Do you have access to a small engine dynamometer? I wish! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #106 Posted September 4, 2020 (edited) @oliver2-44 I marked where the highest point of the top ring stops at TDC and cut the reliefs down to just above that point. Left a sharp edge into cylinder on the intake side to help keep the fuel broken up, and rolled smoothe on exhaust side. Hard to see in pic but the intake side is 'humped' similar to the red line. The intake port was slightly 'squared off' similar to the red line in pic 2, and I lowered the floor where the carb bolts up, raised the roof where the short turn is, basically putting the port somewhat on an angle. (blue marks) The port itself was no opened up much, just blended. Same on the exhaust side. Intake port was left rough, exhaust port somewhat polished. Edited September 4, 2020 by Greentored 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bill D 1,620 #107 Posted September 4, 2020 What did you use for a piston and rod? Zach Kerber had some nice looking pieces on his website. Thoughts? Bill Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #108 Posted September 8, 2020 On 9/4/2020 at 12:56 PM, Bill D said: What did you use for a piston and rod? Zach Kerber had some nice looking pieces on his website. Thoughts? Bill I went back n forth over this many times, and decided to skip the forged stuff for the rpm level I intend to spin it at. The stock rod and crank were perfect, I added an oil hole in the wrist pin end, 'floated' the pin, and ran a Stens replacement +.010 piston. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,282 #109 Posted September 8, 2020 3 minutes ago, Greentored said: I added an oil hole in the wrist pin end, 'floated' the pin I understand the advantage adding an oil hole even in a splash engine. What does floating the pin do for it? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #110 Posted September 8, 2020 11 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I understand the advantage adding an oil hole even in a splash engine. What does floating the pin do for it? In a case like this, most likely nothing haha. I believe the reason for doing it in a high performance engine is so when the pin/piston flex under stress, instead of the pin binding, it can also rotate in the rod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #111 Posted September 15, 2020 Yay, more test videos Testing out the new belt/idler to eliminate the slip n squeal, and also spinning it at 3800 now. It likes to throw the belt when winding it up, so since the camera was rolling, I tried some low rpm pulling- it still didn't break a sweat. This was in 1st gear. Wide open 2nd gear just bounced the plow over the dirt ha. Soil conditions less than ideal, plow just wont suck down deep into this concrete clay, which is the reason for constant turning over. Throwing all shredded paper from the shop in there, and picking up as much horse manure as I can from my sisters farm- anything to break up this crap so something might grow. 1 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,902 #112 Posted September 15, 2020 First thought here Green is to lose the pulley arrangement and go back to a stock setup with the proper belt guard. I understand the need for speed as I have a couple geared for speed but not on a plow mule. Changing from stock pullies for a plow tractor is just messing with perfection my . You might get away with it on a six speed tranny if things were just right. You want to be able to use the midrange grunt of that motor. With stock pullies and 2nd gear you should be running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Use pullies that still allow a 5L rubber belt if possible but my plow mule runs a 4L kevlar with no issues. Did you set the left side up on four inch blocks and adjust the suck point on the plow? Keep throwing stuff on that plot then till it in and drag. Plow it and repeat to desired. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #113 Posted September 15, 2020 54 minutes ago, WHX24 said: First thought here Green is to lose the pulley arrangement and go back to a stock setup with the proper belt guard. I understand the need for speed as I have a couple geared for speed but not on a plow mule. Changing from stock pullies for a plow tractor is just messing with perfection my . You might get away with it on a six speed tranny if things were just right. You want to be able to use the midrange grunt of that motor. With stock pullies and 2nd gear you should be running at 1/2 to 3/4 throttle. Use pullies that still allow a 5L rubber belt if possible but my plow mule runs a 4L kevlar with no issues. Did you set the left side up on four inch blocks and adjust the suck point on the plow? Keep throwing stuff on that plot then till it in and drag. Plow it and repeat to desired. She is 6 speed driven (ok, 8) That was my whole idea on a pulley swap, as low range is pretty much useless, and I wanted another option for the occasional trail ride. The current pulley ratio is basically double, which puts the high range speeds at 4, 6.4, 11mph. She pulls beautiful in high range 1 without winding up too bad, low range is almost usable, and 3rd high is a helluve ride!. Belt slip was actually not the issue as much as it was finding the perfect length belt to allow proper clutch function, spring tension, and belt wrap. 5L kevlar here, oh my God that rubber Gates belt grabbed well but squealed like a stuck pig and jerked the front tires off the ground when it hooked up. LOL. I never set this one up on blocks, just went by the manual, but if set by the book it wont suck into this clay worth a crap. I think theres another issue- the forward point on the share has a heckuva downward curve to it, not sure if thats normal but dont notice it on other plows. That may be 90% of the reason this plow sucks.....or doesnt Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,902 #114 Posted September 15, 2020 Sorry Green but trail ride tractors and plow mules don't mix. Be like using a diesel pulling truck for top fuel drag racing ya get my drift. Suck point on a Brinly should look like these. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #115 Posted September 15, 2020 @WHX24 maybe once I get another trail toy built ill go back to stock pulleys Thanks for posting that pic, mine definitely has an issue! Will be up there tonight again and will snap and post a pic. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oilwell1415 563 #116 Posted September 15, 2020 Do you think it could manage a two bottom now? Assuming it had enough traction and the front end stayed on the ground? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #117 Posted September 15, 2020 5 hours ago, oilwell1415 said: Do you think it could manage a two bottom now? Assuming it had enough traction and the front end stayed on the ground? Powerwise, I believe no problem. Tractionwise, no way as it sits ha! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,282 #118 Posted September 15, 2020 2 minutes ago, Greentored said: Tractionwise Rimguard loaded ags. Bunches of steel weight. A little advice and coercing from the plow dogs in the tractor mafia. You be golden. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #119 Posted September 15, 2020 2 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Rimguard loaded ags. Bunches of steel weight. A little advice and coercing from the plow dogs in the tractor mafia. You be golden. I want to lock the differential so bad, but that’s gotta be tough on axles and keyways. Perhaps if it was a dedicated plow dog, might attempt it, but this ol girl is doing everything except cutting grass.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Greentored 3,201 #120 Posted September 15, 2020 @WHX24 I think we gots a problem here eh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,282 #121 Posted September 16, 2020 3 minutes ago, Greentored said: lock the differential I been thinking on it too. Rough on the rig on turns though. I've got a couple tractors with limited slip we'll be working on soon. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AHS 1,411 #122 Posted September 20, 2020 On 9/15/2020 at 7:56 PM, Greentored said: I want to lock the differential so bad, but that’s gotta be tough on axles and keyways. Perhaps if it was a dedicated plow dog, might attempt it, but this ol girl is doing everything except cutting grass.... I want to lock the rear end too!! for snow! Truck rear ends are in my mInd, if you could just have a pull to have one wheel drive, push to have two. Just a DC servo motor and I dunno!😀 I’ve never ripped into a Wheelhorse rear end... all I know is the fluid that goes in! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites