ebinmaine 63,157 #51 Posted May 23, 2020 I've likely got at least 5 more decent bolts. We change ALL our tractors to having standard lug bolts. MUCH easier to change tires.... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #52 Posted May 23, 2020 22 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: I've likely got at least 5 more decent bolts. We change ALL our tractors to having standard lug bolts. MUCH easier to change tires.... You mean you convert to studs and lugnuts? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #53 Posted May 23, 2020 1 minute ago, 55reasons said: You mean you convert to studs and lugnuts? Yepp Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #54 Posted May 23, 2020 Use full threaded 7/16 fine grade 5 bolts and the nuts are mid 60s GM. I order ours in bulk packs online to save some moolah. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #55 Posted May 23, 2020 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Yepp That’s pretty cool. I wonder how the studs are held on without splines in the ends of the “hub”. Unless you just thread a grade 8 bolt in from the back side with a lock washer or something. In any event, if you have some really nice original lug studs with those head stamps, I’d love to pay you for them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #56 Posted May 23, 2020 4 minutes ago, 55reasons said: thread a grade 8 bolt in from the back side with a lock washer Just threaded in. Grade 5 is plenty strong. No worries. 7 minutes ago, 55reasons said: if you have some really nice original lug studs with those head stamps I'll take a look in the morning for ya... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Sam Pasch 449 #57 Posted May 23, 2020 2 hours ago, 55reasons said: Another question. What do we know about this bolt manufacturer? (These were the rear wheel lug bolts) Nice detail stamped into the bolt heads. I could really use (5) more in this same condition... 4 of the lug bolts on my 867 have that logo, but the rest of them were replaced with cub cadet ones at some point. They have IH stamped into them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #58 Posted May 23, 2020 I've got five more of those bolts here. Fantastic condition. Pay the freight and they're yours. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #59 Posted May 23, 2020 15 hours ago, oliver2-44 said: I noticed you greased the new starter gear. You might want to clean that grease off as it’s best for that gear to run dry or use some dry moly or Teflon on it. The dust from mowing and dirt work will. Cause the starter gear to bind when it tries to engage. I have the identical tractor and it doesn’t have the electric up down switch. This past year I did a major lawn shaping and drainage project with a dozer blade and mid mount grader blade. Put 80 hours on it. For dirt work I run fluid filled turf tires with chains and 66 lb weights on each rear wheel, plus me and it’s a beast I still don’t have a clue why this Auto has an electric switch for up and down. The owner was 96 and that switch is a complete mystery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #60 Posted May 23, 2020 The seat back adjustment knob bolt snapped off some time back. Before I drill and re-tap, can anyone confirm the size and pitch so if I ever find a knob some day it will work? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #61 Posted May 23, 2020 Meanwhile, I got her to start up and run! *****NEW PROBLEM**** Rear hubs are turning, but only if there is NO resistance. I can stop either side by just touching my shoe to the hub. Tell me this isn’t going to be as bad as I expect it’s going to be. *****I got WORKED on this deal... lol.***** Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 51,721 #62 Posted May 23, 2020 1 hour ago, 55reasons said: I can stop either side by just touching my shoe to the hub That seems normal for a differential, if one wheel is stopped the other will spin faster. If you attempt to stop both at the same time and they do stop it is a problem. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #63 Posted May 23, 2020 6 hours ago, 55reasons said: The seat back adjustment knob bolt snapped off some time back. Before I drill and re-tap, can anyone confirm the size and pitch so if I ever find a knob some day it will work? This is the back metal plate that the foam and vinyl go on. The seat also has a metal plate with foam and vinyl. This is a new plate that I use to make that seat. That nob that screws in the back is a 5/16 thread. The arm rests are rear and hard to find. I'm thinking of duplicating the armrests . 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #64 Posted May 23, 2020 The key is easy to duplicate. I keep extra keys just for such occasions. Grandchildren 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #65 Posted May 23, 2020 26 minutes ago, BOB ELLISON said: This is the back metal plate that the foam and vinyl go on. The seat also has a metal plate with foam and vinyl. This is a new plate that I use to make that seat. That nob that screws in the back is a 5/16 thread. The arm rests are rear and hard to find. I'm thinking of duplicating the armrests . 5/16 ? Thank you. 18 or 24 thread? I’m just going to bead blast and powdercoat my seat back, but I wanted to re-tap it first. I made new arm rests already. Pulled out the 3/8 plywood and made new ones out of 1/2 oak. Coating it with Spar Urethane to keep the moisture at bay. Installed stainless steel inserts instead of regular steel so they won’t rust from the inside. Just waiting on 1/8 piping to reconstruct the arm rest vinyl itself. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #66 Posted May 23, 2020 (edited) 1 hour ago, 953 nut said: That seems normal for a differential, if one wheel is stopped the other will spin faster. If you attempt to stop both at the same time and they do stop it is a problem. I never thought that a tractor would not be spooled in the rear. Edited May 23, 2020 by 55reasons Typo Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oliver2-44 8,852 #67 Posted May 24, 2020 By “spooled” do you mean limited slip Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #68 Posted May 24, 2020 5/16x18 standard thread. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
RandyLittrell 3,827 #69 Posted May 24, 2020 13 hours ago, 55reasons said: I never thought that a tractor would not be spooled in the rear. With a locked rear end they are very hard to turn and the inside tire will spin. Not to mention, hard on the axles. They did make a limited slip in a few, but with some wheel weights and loaded tires, you will have good traction. Weight is the key on these little tractors to making them work hard. Randy 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #70 Posted May 24, 2020 1 minute ago, RandyLittrell said: With a locked rear end they are very hard to turn and the inside tire will spin. Not to mention, hard on the axles. They did make a limited slip in a few, but with some wheel weights and loaded tires, you will have good traction. Weight is the key on these little tractors to making them work hard. Randy Agreed. My Cinnamon Horse is a 74 C-160. I have a lot of added weight in fluid. No posi. Works great plowing in rough terrain. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #71 Posted May 24, 2020 Scenario A: Wheel Horse branded filters are sill available. Scenario B: The filter hasn’t been changed in at least 20 years. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,157 #72 Posted May 24, 2020 Could be NOS. I had a couple here last year I gave a member. Best to get a Wix brand or Napa (which is Wix) if possible, when you change it. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
55reasons 171 #73 Posted May 24, 2020 Reading the FSM, it would seem that this 74 Auto just takes regular motor oil, so I guess I don’t need to use a hydraulic non-bypass filter eh? Just a standard oil filter will do I assume. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
squonk 38,937 #74 Posted May 24, 2020 Your clutch switch is by your left pedal. They are usually junk. That could be what the mystery switch is for since you said the wires from it went down by the lift cylinder Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BOB ELLISON 2,976 #75 Posted May 24, 2020 1 hour ago, 55reasons said: Reading the FSM, it would seem that this 74 Auto just takes regular motor oil, so I guess I don’t need to use a hydraulic non-bypass filter eh? Just a standard oil filter will do I assume. Dont use a regular oil filter. I use the napa 1410. A regular oil filter is not made the same. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites