1975 C-160 [so many questions. Brace yourself]

[ebinmaine 63,157]

35 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

...and $400.   ?

 

seems steep, but it’s local, so at least I won’t have to drive 16 hours again for an attachment.  (Again)

Mmmmmm.

That's a bit much but the right price is the one that make buyer and seller happy.

 

I paid a touch over $300 for a drag style WITH shipping from NY to Maine.

 

[55reasons 171]

49 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Mmmmmm.

That's a bit much but the right price is the one that make buyer and seller happy.

 

I paid a touch over $300 for a drag style WITH shipping from NY to Maine.

 

Yeah, I’m aware that it’s too much $$, but he mentioned the Res Square and also that he has 4 WH’s.  So, as with many things, people in the hobby charge premiums for things that a guy in the street would let go of cheap.

[ebinmaine 63,157]

3 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

people in the hobby charge premiums for things that a guy in the street would let go of cheap

Odd as it sounds, here in the northeast I find the opposite.

CL ads are full of platinum coated "vintage" piles of....

 

I've a few Horse friends that are quite generous to me and I return the favor when possible.

 

[55reasons 171]

Getting ready to put the seat back together.

 

The pivot bracket has a good amount of space on either side, so I assume the bolts in my hand with the spacers are what was there.

 

However.......

 

I feel like there should be more.

washers, maybe even rubber washers to prevent scratching, I’d probably select a nylock nut so I can keep it loos enough to move freely, etc...

 

what do yours look like under here?

 

Also, are there any rubber “feet” under the FRONT of the seat pan bracket to prevent metal to metal contact?

[55reasons 171]

[55reasons 171]

Also, the tolerance between the pressed pivot holes and the spacer is completely unacceptable.    But the bolt diameter is correct.

 

 

[ebinmaine 63,157]

I've handled that rear pivot a couple different ways. On one occasion I used a slightly larger bolt and on another occasion I found a spacer in my pile of junk that maybe was a little bigger or just not worn out. Really could go either way.

 

On the front, yes, there should be rubber bumpers there.

 

[55reasons 171]

1 minute ago, ebinmaine said:

I've handled that rear pivot a couple different ways. On one occasion I used a slightly larger bolt and on another occasion I found a spacer in my pile of junk that maybe was a little bigger or just not worn out. Really could go either way.

 

On the front, yes, there should be rubber bumpers there.

 

Awesome thanks!

 

So, where can I source the rubber baby buggy bumpers?

[ebinmaine 63,157]

3 minutes ago, 55reasons said:

Awesome thanks!

 

So, where can I source the rubber baby buggy bumpers?

That's funny right there because I almost wrote that same phrase.

 

I don't actually know. Others May answer. Maybe Wheel Horse parts and more? Maybe Glen Pettit?

 

[55reasons 171]

29 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

That's funny right there because I almost wrote that same phrase.

 

I don't actually know. Others May answer. Maybe Wheel Horse parts and more? Maybe Glen Pettit?

 

The hunt is on. 

[55reasons 171]

Well, the WH dealer put in order for a pair.  We’ll see if they actually show up.

 

Meanwhile, I came across this old thread comment:

 

[55reasons 171]

Well, I sat down and was about to fire up the lathe to machine some pivot bushings.

 

I wanted to get some new stainless steel bolts, so I ran to Fastenal just to find out they closed their “showroom” because of COVID.

 

So I typed in “hardware” on my NAV and it took me to a Tru Value Hardware store that has been in business since 1945.

 

JACKPOT.    (finally)

 

Their hardware section is immaculate, and they have EVERYTHING, including the seat adjustment knob.

 

Wouldn’t you know they also had bronze bearings (bushings) that fit almost perfectly the part I was going to make.  Lol.

 

Albeit I’ll be doing it in reverse, it’s going to save me a bunch of time.

 

All stainless, and fiber washers to go between the powder coated parts so nothing gets chewed up along the way.

 

Finally, something goes right.

 

I just have to cut the bronze sleeves down to the correct length to match the gaps between the bracket and the “trunk?”   That gap comes out to be 9mm, so 4.5mm on each side, minus 2.5mm for the thickness of a fiber washer and a flat washer, and it should be DEAD ON.

 

 

[55reasons 171]

[55reasons 171]

[ebinmaine 63,157]

Super excellent. Better than new.

[55reasons 171]

Zip with the Dremel, and she fits like a glove.

 

 

Edited June 16, 2020 by 55reasons

[55reasons 171]

[55reasons 171]

Now for a stupid question.

 

Does this bracket go on “leaning” forward, or “leaning” towards the back?

[55reasons 171]

A or B ?

 

A:

 

 

Edited June 16, 2020 by 55reasons

[55reasons 171]

B:

 

[ebinmaine 63,157]

I'm not sure that it would bolt on in both directions. I feel like I put mine so that it was leaning towards the back because it would give a larger span they're by greater stability. But my logic may be flawed.

[55reasons 171]

1 hour ago, ebinmaine said:

I'm not sure that it would bolt on in both directions. I feel like I put mine so that it was leaning towards the back because it would give a larger span they're by greater stability. But my logic may be flawed.

Well, it definitely leans forward (B).  lol.

 

In any case, I’m pretty happy with this.

Since it’s an “off the shelf” bronze bearing, if it ever fails, it’ll be an easy fix.   But something tells me this is going to outlast the rest of the tractor.  Lol.

 

Anyway....   On to the rest of the seat re-assembly.

 

 

[55reasons 171]

Taking my time putting this seat back together.

 

Obviously using all new stainless steel hardware.

 

Making sure to put rubber or fiber washers to prevent bolts or washers from making contact with the powdercoat.

 

The vinyl turned out pretty good.

 

 

[55reasons 171]

[55reasons 171]