Whguy46041 10 #1 Posted May 16, 2020 My 310-8 won’t fire when I turn the key. Engine won’t even turn over. It started when I went to take it out to mow and I turned the pto on and the engine bogged down and died. I fired it back up and it did it again. I got off and looked and the belt was lodged under the pulley. Every since then it has not fired when I turn the key. I can start the tractor if I jump the solenoid with a screw driver but that’s the only time. I replaced the starter solenoid today and nothing. I took a test like to the ignition switch and there is no power to it at all. All my fuses are good and I’ve checked all the grounds. I’m also terrible with electrical issues, I just want to stay away from the shop if I can. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,503 #2 Posted May 16, 2020 Sounds like you may have a safety switch that is not working. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #3 Posted May 16, 2020 Just now, Achto said: Sounds like you may have a safety switch that is not working. That’s what I’ve read. I’ve researched for a few days now. Is there a way to test these switches ? Hell I only know where the seat switch is on this 310. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Achto 29,503 #4 Posted May 16, 2020 A simple test light will tell you if power is passing through the seat switch to the starter. Also will need to check the PTO safety and the neutral safety switches. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,559 #5 Posted May 16, 2020 What is your model number? The wiring changed a few ties as features were added. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #6 Posted May 16, 2020 24 minutes ago, Achto said: A simple test light will tell you if power is passing through the seat switch to the starter. Also will need to check the PTO safety and the neutral safety switches. Took a test light to every electrical connection possible. The only thing showing that had power is the positive terminal on the battery and the positive terminal on the solenoid. There’s no power to the ignition switch, seat safety switch, pto lever switch, what looks to me like a capacitor, Headlight switch etc. 3 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: What is your model number? The wiring changed a few ties as features were added. Garry My model number is 21-10k805 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Roblox 6 #7 Posted May 16, 2020 try unpluging the seat switch 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #8 Posted May 16, 2020 4 minutes ago, Roblox said: try unpluging the seat switch Tried that no luck. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,559 #9 Posted May 16, 2020 The correct diagrams Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #10 Posted May 16, 2020 11 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: The correct diagrams Garry I appreciate the schematics of the wiring but it’s a foreign language to me. I think it’s just going to usb to go to the shop and get fixed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
roadapples 6,984 #11 Posted May 16, 2020 Clean the contact's on the amp gauge.... You're not getting power to the switch.. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #12 Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) 14 minutes ago, roadapples said: Clean the contact's on the amp gauge.... You're not getting power to the switch.. I will get on that tomorrow morning. I gave up after 6 hours today on my 310 and my 69 charger 12 Edited May 16, 2020 by Whguy46041 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,559 #13 Posted May 16, 2020 Since you had a belt problem it is possible the clutch pedal switch got disturbed. If you look down past the shifters to the right side panel you will see the switch. The drive belt idler arm/pulley activates the switch with the pedal down to send power on to the starter solenoid. Here is picture of the switch https://www.partstree.com/parts/toro-110970/ They say it is no longer available but I don't believe that. Some dealers still show it as available. Garry 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SylvanLakeWH 28,841 #14 Posted May 16, 2020 It looks like the PTO handle is fully engaged, but have you tried simply jiggling it and re-engage / disengage? Don’t ask me how I know , but the PTO lever may just be partially engaging the safety switch... 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #15 Posted May 16, 2020 12 minutes ago, SylvanLakeWH said: It looks like the PTO handle is fully engaged, but have you tried simply jiggling it and re-engage / disengage? Don’t ask me how I know , but the PTO lever may just be partially engaging the safety switch... I’ve wiggled it back and forth when starting. It’s not engaged at all. It has to be something stupid easy I just can’t figure it out haha 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,669 #16 Posted May 16, 2020 Have you checked the engine oil level? There is a switch in the engine that will prevent the engine from starting from the key with low oil level. The safety switches on the PTO are a bit hard to get to, but half of that switch will prevent the engine from starting from the key if it is not all the way back. You do not have an amp meter so you can disregard that suggestion. Take another look at the fuse and fuse holder on the wire that comes from the "+" side of your solenoid going to the "B" terminal of the ignition switch. Being near the battery they tend to corrode inside. That fuse is the only component (other than the wire itself) that could prevent voltage from making it to the ignition switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Rob R 977 #17 Posted May 16, 2020 (edited) There is a clutch safety switch looks like a small ball bearing on the right side sitting on the tractor it is engage with you push the clutch in this is what gave me grief until I found it.... just follow the puley that moves when you push the clutch in the arm of this pushes in the ball bearing switch..... would be good to have two people that arm wears of gets bent out a bit and doesn't engage the switch properly. Take the belt cover off and you will find it. Edited May 17, 2020 by Rob R Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #18 Posted May 16, 2020 7 minutes ago, 953 nut said: Have you checked the engine oil level? There is a switch in the engine that will prevent the engine from starting from the key with low oil level. The safety switches on the PTO are a bit hard to get to, but half of that switch will prevent the engine from starting from the key if it is not all the way back. You do not have an amp meter so you can disregard that suggestion. Take another look at the fuse and fuse holder on the wire that comes from the "+" side of your solenoid going to the "B" terminal of the ignition switch. Being near the battery they tend to corrode inside. That fuse is the only component (other than the wire itself) that could prevent voltage from making it to the ignition switch. Engine oil level was good. Wiring looks good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #19 Posted May 16, 2020 4 minutes ago, Rob R said: There is a clutch safety switch looks like a small ball bearing on the right side sitting on the tractor it is engage with you push the clutch in this is what gave me grief until I found it.... just follow the puley that moves when you push the clutch in the arm of this pushes in the ball bearing switch..... would be good to have two people that arm wears of gets bent out a bit and doesn't engage the switch properly. I followed the pulley but didn’t see a ball bearing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,669 #20 Posted May 16, 2020 15 minutes ago, Whguy46041 said: Wiring looks good Looks can be deceiving, use a test light or meter and go step by step from a known good source of voltage (solenoid "+" side) and be sure that voltage is present. The sudden vibration from the belt problem could have caused a marginal wiring issue to become worse. Use a logical step by step approach to your trouble shooting. Print a copy of the wiring diagram that Gary @gwest_ca gave you and start at the battery and follow it item by item to the point where voltage no longer is showing up. 10 hours ago, Whguy46041 said: I took a test like to the ignition switch and there is no power to it at all. Without power at the ignition switch you are not going to have the engine crank over from the key switch. Don't spend time on other things until this is resolved. 16 minutes ago, Whguy46041 said: followed the pulley but didn’t see a ball bearing. With the belt cover removed look at the arm that the idled pulley is mounted on and follow the arch it makes. there is a switch that it makes up when it is near the bottom. It may be a small white lever, that is what my 310-8 has. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,559 #21 Posted May 16, 2020 Maybe this drawing will help. The starter circuit starts at the ignition switch tan wire and goes to purple and so on to get to the starter solenoid. Notice the related switches are closed to make that happen. The rear of the ignition switch illustrates what wires are where in reference to the 5-wire plastic connector. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #22 Posted May 16, 2020 1 hour ago, gwest_ca said: Maybe this drawing will help. The starter circuit starts at the ignition switch tan wire and goes to purple and so on to get to the starter solenoid. Notice the related switches are closed to make that happen. The rear of the ignition switch illustrates what wires are where in reference to the 5-wire plastic connector. Garry Garry I used this diagram and started with a test light. I have no power on start or battery coming off the switch. There’s no power coming from the relay as well. I have power going to the solenoid from the battery but that’s it Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #23 Posted May 16, 2020 28 minutes ago, Whguy46041 said: Garry I used this diagram and started with a test light. I have no power on start or battery coming off the switch. There’s no power coming from the relay as well. I have power going to the solenoid from the battery but that’s it This wire was set as a ground. I put this on the positive side of the solenoid I get power to the test light and the fuse is now hot. It appears to be black and orange Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,559 #24 Posted May 16, 2020 Does that wire go to that fuse? With the key OFF the red wires should all have power. That is what supplies the ignition switch. Get that working first. The relay will do nothing if it is working correctly and the oil is not low with the low oil switch working. Deal with that later. Use the battery negative post to ground the test light in case the grounds are bad. Keep us posted. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Whguy46041 10 #25 Posted May 16, 2020 19 minutes ago, gwest_ca said: Does that wire go to that fuse? With the key OFF the red wires should all have power. That is what supplies the ignition switch. Get that working first. The relay will do nothing if it is working correctly and the oil is not low with the low oil switch working. Deal with that later. Use the battery negative post to ground the test light in case the grounds are bad. Keep us posted. Garry All red wires are now hot and I have power to the ignition switch now. That wire runs to the 15 amp fuse. I moved it to the + side on the starter solenoid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites