1962-64, 502 Restoration. Need Help Getting Started.

[Volleballogist 18]

Hello all, 

I have owned this wheelhorse tractor since I was 5 years old. My grandfather bought this as a kit and we built it together. Unfortunately my grandfather passed a few years later taking his knowledge about this tractor with him. I need help getting this thing running again. I'm not sure on where I can buy parts, I have the original owners manual floating around somewhere but any tips or advice on where I should get started or certain questions I should be asking would be greatly appreciated. Thanks everyone!

[Volleballogist 18]

[pfrederi 20,834]

Welcome. You can down load manual here.  Looks to be in near perfect shape!!!

 

 

[ebinmaine 79,573]

 

I can't really help you too much with the reassembly of your particular tractor because my expertise, or lack thereof, is based a little bit later in years than yours.

 

But I'm pretty sure several other people that have the knowledge you are looking for will be right along shortly. You've absolutely tripped over the best place to get information for whatever you need to do with your tractor.

 

I will say... Keep asking questions. And we like lots of pictures.

 

 

[WHX?? 57,334]

All you need is right here. Does look to be complete and original aside from the air cleaner and throttle cable missing. 502 owners will be along to welcome and offer advise. First thing would be to get it running and go from there. 

[Achto 32,083]

24 minutes ago, Volleballogist said:

I need help getting this thing running again.

 

 

 

First off I would change the oil in the engine. After that you only need 4 things to run - fuel, air, compression, & spark. Check to see if you have spark. Clean the entire fuel system, some times Tecumseh carbs can be finicky some members from here have had luck with the $35 carbs from Ebay. After you have it running then I would move on to checking out the rest of the tractor. 

 

Just for reference your tractor is a 1962 model 502 

Edited March 26, 2020 by Achto

[Pullstart 70,525]

 @Volleballogist!

 

That’s amazing that you’ve had this since you were 5!  A 502 happens to be my favorite model!  It doesn’t look like you need a ton to get it running.

 

Here’s my 502, Putt Putt.  It’s been upgraded a bit, with a newer frame, 8 speed transmission, 8 horse Kohler and a few odds and ends.

 

 

[SylvanLakeWH 31,675]

[Volleballogist 18]

Thanks for the warm welcome everyone and the useful information! I'm going to get started on this in the next week or two, so I will keep you guys updated with pictures and questions. 

[WHX?? 57,334]

Please do ... many of us have 702's which is the same tractor just a different engine. Couple of Tecumseh experts here too. 

[WHNJ701 4,172]

roughly where in pa are you?  alot of members in that area.  nice looking rides! 

[Volleballogist 18]

1 hour ago, jabelman said:

roughly where in pa are you?  alot of members in that area.  nice looking rides! 

I'm from the Lehigh county region of PA

[Volleballogist 18]

So Im having trouble identifying exactly what kind of engine I have. (I am looking for a diagram so I can take it apart to make sure everything is still good.) When I looked at the pdf files for the manuals that were posted the 3 types of engines that are labeled are the:

1:Kholer 7 hp

2: Lawson 5 1/2 electric hp

3: Lawson 5 1/2 hp

I dont see anything in the parts list that labels anything as Tecumseh, so how do I identify what kind of engine it is and where can I find a manual or something for it? Also I tried looking for what was stamped on the carb. so I could buy a new one but after cross referencing the stamp with Tecumseh carbs I cannot seem to find the part. This is what was stamped on the carb... "113 7k18

[pfrederi 20,834]

Lauson/Tecumseh same thing. 

[ebinmaine 79,573]

20 minutes ago, Volleballogist said:

carb. so I could buy a new one

Curious to know why you want to get a NEW carb. Yours junk? Broken? Missing pieces?

 

Many of these older engines you are much better off to rebuild what you have if it is structurally solid.

[wallfish 20,184]

You can find some manuals here

https://www.wheelhorseforum.com/search/?q=tecumseh&quick=1&type=downloads_file

The engine numbers may be stamped into the flywheel shroud down low.

If original engine that may be a H55 but use H60 for reference and most parts will interchange, especially the carb.

Follow the advice above from Achto to get going on it.

If it doesn't have spark, the first thing to check are the points which are located under the flywheel. Clean those contacts well and you get spark.

[Volleballogist 18]

Started to take this apart, figured I'd show some pictures. The engine definitely needs to be cleaned. As far as the gas tank goes what's the best method for cleaning the inside of it?

[Volleballogist 18]

[Volleballogist 18]

On 4/1/2020 at 3:07 PM, ebinmaine said:

Curious to know why you want to get a NEW carb. Yours junk? Broken? Missing pieces?

 

Many of these older engines you are much better off to rebuild what you have if it is structurally solid.

Well I suppose my carb isnt the problem as much as the metal bracket that controls the throttle and choke. the white/rusty thing in the picture is what I need. The current one is seized up. however a little soak in vinegar for a few days should take care of the rust.

[Volleballogist 18]

On 4/1/2020 at 3:19 PM, wallfish said:

If original engine that may be a H55 but use H60 for reference and most parts will interchange, especially the carb.

Thanks for the info, I've looked everywhere I could think of on this engine and the only stamps I can find on it is one area that says 19-0-61. I'm assuming it's the year it was made. I was able to find my manual for my engine with your info so thanks. here's a picture of that stamp.

[wallfish 20,184]

29 minutes ago, Volleballogist said:

As far as the gas tank goes what's the best method for cleaning the inside of it?

Load some sheetrock screws (sharp edges) in there and shake away. Some people have tumbled them tied to a tractor tire or in the clothes dryer with a bunch of towels. Use that vinegar to remove the remaining rust inside. I found the cider vinegar works best and a bit faster but your results may vary.

Soaking and cleaning that control part with lubing it good should free everything up. Guarantee the carb will need a good thorough cleaning as well since they seem to be the biggest weak link on those engines.

The H55 engines will have an indentation in the case under the crankshaft opposite the flywheel because it has an oil pump, not splash lube. An H60 will be splash lube and have a flat case 

[ebinmaine 79,573]

2 hours ago, Volleballogist said:

Well I suppose my carb isnt the problem as much as the metal bracket that controls the throttle and choke. the white/rusty thing in the picture is what I need. The current one is seized up. however a little soak in vinegar for a few days should take care of the rust.

 

1 hour ago, wallfish said:

Use that vinegar

 

 

I'll second the vinegar. Or whatever your favorite rust remover is.

 

When you can get that area freed up you're definitely a lot better off to stick with OE parts and replace the gaskets, etc..

[Pullstart 70,525]

I’ve used mineral spirits and a handful of 1/4-20 nuts too.  

[Stepney 2,356]

Best thing I ever found for cleaning tanks, fill it half way with mineral spirits and acetone. Ass light coarse gravel. Strap the tank to the rear tire of another machine, and let it turn over slowly for an hour or 2.. good as new!

Put a lot of miles on my WH while suspended in the air, cleaning tanks..

[Volleballogist 18]

So I took off my flywheel today and found this stamp. Is this what I lookup for my engine model? I have been using the H60 as a reference to buy spare parts but I would just like to know.