Oldskool 6,585 #226 Posted June 28, 2020 12 minutes ago, pfrederi said: Maybe no markings on the plastic but are there any stampings on the terminal themselves Since you are using a Magnum with magneto system I would be very very sure about the wiring before I hooked anything up. Magic smoke is expensive... No markings on the terminals either. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,131 #227 Posted June 28, 2020 55 minutes ago, Oldskool said: I do not at the moment. There are no markings on the switch. I tested it with a continuity tester. 2 terminals have continuity when in the off position which I am using as the grounds to kill the engine. Yes, one of these will go to ground and one will go to the magneto. 2 other terminals have continuity when the switch is in the detent position then none when released. I am using them for the exciter wire for the solenoid. OK, one of these will go to the battery and one will go to the small terminal on the solenoid. The last 2 terminals have continuity when the key is turned back 1 click but not off. That would have one wire hot from the battery. The other would power lights, cigarette lighter etc. ? ? ? Are you sure that neither of these terminals go to the previous two? Most ignition switches have only one terminal going to the battery. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,189 #228 Posted June 28, 2020 Honestly I would not use that switch Switches are cheap. magnetos expensive 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 16,996 #229 Posted June 28, 2020 (edited) You can use a Toro switch for a Briggs V twin. It would have the ground terminal to the case. You need 12 volt hot on for Run circuit, ground terminal for kill circuit, starter excite wire and then Accessory. Edited June 28, 2020 by 19richie66 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,432 #230 Posted June 28, 2020 1 hour ago, pfrederi said: Honestly I would not use that switch Switches are cheap. magnetos expensive I gotta out another vote in for Trash the existing switch. I've seen so many previous owner "modifications" that have gone bad I WON'T use a switch anymore that doesn't have markings on the terminals. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #231 Posted June 29, 2020 IM CALLING A DO OVER! LOL. Well it was a bit of a trip but I now have the original wire harness for the engine. Now to figure out what I DON'T need 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #232 Posted June 29, 2020 I think I have it all figured out other than my amp gauge. One wire went to the starter solenoid. The other wire not sure. Can I attach that to the hot wire I have left over from not using an hour meter? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 52,131 #233 Posted June 29, 2020 1 hour ago, Oldskool said: I think I have it all figured out other than my amp gauge. One wire went to the starter solenoid. The other wire not sure. Can I attach that to the hot wire I have left over from not using an hour meter? You can use that wire for a volt meter. An Amp Meter is installed in series in the wire from the battery to the ignition switch. Do yourself a favor, throw away the amp meter and install a volt meter. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #234 Posted June 29, 2020 Sometimes it's the little things that really make it worth the time 5 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 63,432 #235 Posted June 29, 2020 27 minutes ago, 953 nut said: throw away the amp meter and install a volt meter 1 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 60,062 #236 Posted June 30, 2020 Like @19richie66’s Skittles tractor, I will never get sick of looking at those tires! 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #237 Posted June 30, 2020 Is this wire bail thing an actual part or did it just get lost between the tank and grille? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 16,996 #238 Posted June 30, 2020 (edited) 5 minutes ago, Oldskool said: Is this wire bail thing an actual part or did it just get lost between the tank and grille? Fuel tank hold down. Should be a spring and another wire too. I think I have a complete set if you need one. Edited June 30, 2020 by 19richie66 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #239 Posted June 30, 2020 22 minutes ago, 19richie66 said: Fuel tank hold down. Should be a spring and another wire too. I think I have a complete set if you need one. I may need one, but do you have a pic of the application? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 16,996 #240 Posted June 30, 2020 I’ll see if I can find one. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #241 Posted July 1, 2020 36 minutes ago, 19richie66 said: I’ll see if I can find one. You dont by any chance have an intake tube that you could measure? The piece between the carb and air filter. I dont have one. I'm making one and not really sure how long to make it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #242 Posted July 1, 2020 This piece 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 16,996 #243 Posted July 1, 2020 Yes I have one of those too. Send me a message with your number and I’ll get back to you this afternoon. I’ll fix you up 👍 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #244 Posted July 5, 2020 The fuel tank is in. I had the engine till I found the the top of the flywheel cover was in the way of the hood, and the intake tube was to close to the heat shield on the tank to be able to put the engine bolts in. AND the exhaust is in the way of the hood. So a bit of back tracking tomorrow 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #245 Posted July 5, 2020 The engine is finally in and running. NO magic smoke, and no leaks. I do need a bit of info to help me alone. 1 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #246 Posted July 5, 2020 QUESTION :1. I figure this is one of the battery hold downs. In what orientation is this supposed to work? Angular thru an angle iron type bracket? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #247 Posted July 5, 2020 QUESTION :2 Does anybody have a pic of where a return spring would be mounted for the brake pedal? Question :3 Which direction does the release lever get turned on the hydro to be fully activated? More questions to come on the hydro subject.. I'm this close to having a functioning tractor I really dont want to mess up the drive unit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 17,189 #248 Posted July 5, 2020 Long end of the roll pin forward for drive back for tow. Return spring hooks to cam plate and the 1/4" bolt just below the cross shaft 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 60,062 #249 Posted July 6, 2020 I can!t say this is textbook, but it worked for us! 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Oldskool 6,585 #250 Posted July 6, 2020 4 hours ago, pullstart said: I can!t say this is textbook, but it worked for us! Thanks for the pic. I'm using a lawn and garden battery which is apparently smaller than OEM. Looks like I'm headed back to the welding bench. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites