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Oldskool

GT-14 A diamond in the rough

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Oldskool
12 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Maybe no markings on the plastic but are there any stampings on the terminal themselves  Since you  are using a Magnum with magneto system I would be very very sure about the wiring before I hooked anything up.  Magic smoke is expensive...

No markings on the terminals either.

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953 nut
55 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

I do not at the moment. There are no markings on the switch. I tested it with a continuity tester. 2 terminals have continuity when in the off position which I am using as the grounds to kill the engine. Yes, one of these will go to ground and one will go to the magneto.

2 other terminals have continuity when the switch is in the detent position then none when released. I am using them for the exciter wire for the solenoid.  OK, one of these will go to the battery and one will go to the small terminal on the solenoid.

The last  2 terminals  have continuity when the key is turned back 1 click but not off. That would have one wire hot from the battery. The other would power lights, cigarette  lighter etc.       ?   ?    ?  Are you sure that neither of these terminals go to the previous two? Most ignition switches have only one terminal going to the battery.

 

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pfrederi

Honestly I would not use that switch Switches are cheap. magnetos expensive

 

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19richie66

You can use a Toro switch for a Briggs V twin. It would have the ground terminal to the case. You need 12 volt hot on for Run circuit, ground terminal for kill circuit, starter excite wire and then Accessory.

Edited by 19richie66
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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, pfrederi said:

Honestly I would not use that switch Switches are cheap. magnetos expensive

 

I gotta out another vote in for Trash the existing switch.

I've seen so many previous owner "modifications" that have gone bad I WON'T use a switch anymore that doesn't have markings on the terminals.

 

 

 

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Oldskool

IM CALLING A DO OVER! LOL. Well it was a bit of a trip but I now have the original wire harness for the engine. Now to figure out what I DON'T need

20200628_200447.jpg

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Oldskool

I think I have it all figured out other than my amp gauge. One wire went to the starter solenoid.  The other wire not sure. Can I attach that to the hot wire I have left over from not using an hour meter?

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953 nut
1 hour ago, Oldskool said:

I think I have it all figured out other than my amp gauge. One wire went to the starter solenoid.  The other wire not sure. Can I attach that to the hot wire I have left over from not using an hour meter?

You can use that wire for a volt meter. An Amp Meter is installed in series in the wire from the battery to the ignition switch. Do yourself a favor, throw away the amp meter and install a volt meter.

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Oldskool

Sometimes it's the little things that really make it worth the time :)

20200629_182541.jpg

20200629_184800.jpg

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ebinmaine
27 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

throw away the amp meter and install a volt meter

:text-yeahthat:

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Pullstart

Like @19richie66’s Skittles tractor, I will never get sick of looking at those tires!

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Oldskool

Is this wire bail thing an actual part or did it just get lost between the tank and grille?

20200629_194500.jpg

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19richie66
5 minutes ago, Oldskool said:

Is this wire bail thing an actual part or did it just get lost between the tank and grille?

20200629_194500.jpg

Fuel tank hold down. Should be a spring and another wire too. I think I have a complete set if you need one.

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Oldskool
22 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

Fuel tank hold down. Should be a spring and another wire too. I think I have a complete set if you need one.

I may need one, but do you have a pic of the application?

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19richie66

I’ll see if I can find one. 

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Oldskool
36 minutes ago, 19richie66 said:

I’ll see if I can find one. 

You dont by any chance have an intake tube that you could measure? The piece between the carb and air filter. I dont have one. I'm making one and not really sure how long to make it. 

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Oldskool

This piece 

20200630_200220.jpg

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19richie66

Yes I have one of those too. Send me a message with your number and I’ll get back to you this afternoon. I’ll fix you up 👍

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Oldskool

The fuel tank is in. I had the engine till I found the the top of the flywheel cover was in the way of the hood, and the intake tube was to close to the heat shield on the tank to be able to put the engine bolts in. AND the exhaust is in the way of the hood. So a bit of back tracking tomorrow

20200704_084721.jpg

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Oldskool

The engine is finally in and running. NO magic smoke, and no leaks. I do need a bit of info to help me alone.

 

20200705_105514.jpg

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Oldskool

QUESTION :1. I figure this is one of the battery hold downs. In what orientation is this supposed to work? Angular thru an angle iron type bracket?

20200705_105701.jpg

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Oldskool

QUESTION :2 Does anybody have a pic of  where a return spring would be mounted for the brake pedal?

 

Question :3 Which direction does the release lever get turned on the hydro to be fully activated?

 

More questions to come on the hydro subject.. I'm this close to having a functioning tractor I really dont want to mess up the drive unit. 

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pfrederi

Long end of the roll pin forward for drive back for tow.  Return spring hooks to cam plate and the 1/4" bolt just below the cross shaft

 

 

 

 

 

IMG_0062.JPG

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Pullstart

I can!t say this is textbook, but it worked for us!

 

 
 

2ABC7132-29DA-4A54-893B-3A214D7B9D32.jpeg

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Oldskool
4 hours ago, pullstart said:

I can!t say this is textbook, but it worked for us!

 

 
 

2ABC7132-29DA-4A54-893B-3A214D7B9D32.jpeg

Thanks for the pic. I'm using a lawn and garden battery which is apparently  smaller than OEM. Looks like I'm headed back to the welding bench.

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