New to me 656 (or b80?)

[Indoorsoccerfrea 3]

Hello all, I am just getting acquainted with the WH cult. I picked up a frankentractor off of Craigslist for $50 and a few trades. The decals on the hood indicate it is a B80, but the model and serial number tag under the steering wheel state it is a 656. Are there other markings elsewhere to indicate what it is? 

 

It has a newer 5.5 hp briggs Intec 206 on it, and the belt appears to be too long. The idler pulley is all the way up and the belt still slips. No matter what gear I am in it only can manage a crawl. I suspect swapping out the belt for a tighter one will resolve that issue.

 

One thing I am struggling with is the brake pedal/parking brake link up. The transfer rod from the brake pedal to the brake drum is bent a bit at the threads. It also was somehow put on between the drum and the frame, so I can't get it off without disassembling something else. Any tips or tricks?

 

I have the rear discharge deck off of it, needs a new wheel and a good cleaning but otherwise seems functional, anyone want to trade a plow blade for it?

Edited December 28, 2019 by Indoorsoccerfrea
Grammar

[stevasaurus 23,307]

Welcome to Red Square.  You have a 656 with a B-=80 hood...probably to get the Briggs to fit.  The 656 would have a 6 hp Tecumseh for the power source.  You will need to find a belt guard to cover the drive belt...or manufacture something.  The belt guard is your clutch.  When you step on the clutch/brake pedal, that tension pulley puts slack in the drive belt and the guard funnels the slack toward the engine drive pulley.  That will let the input pulley on the transmission come to a stop so you can shift gears without grinding the transmission.  The original belt guard may not fit correctly now with that Briggs in there, but you may be able to modify it enough to fit.  If you did not get the belt guard in the deal, see if the seller still has it.

   Your other issue, that piece of linkage, is fixable also.  I think we would like to see a good picture of what you have there.  All in all...not bad for $50  

[SylvanLakeWH 28,613]

 

Nice score!

 

 

[stevasaurus 23,307]

Here is a manual...

 

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

to

[Indoorsoccerfrea 3]

Here's a picture of the linkage back by the rear axle. I need to remove the connecting rod from the brake pedal to the emergency brake assembly, but there is no room between the emergency brake assembly and the frame to slide out the connecting rod. Is there a trick to this?

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

38 minutes ago, Indoorsoccerfrea said:

Here's a picture of the linkage back by the rear axle. I need to remove the connecting rod from the brake pedal to the emergency brake assembly, but there is no room between the emergency brake assembly and the frame to slide out the connecting rod. Is there a trick to this?

You will have to remove the brake 

to do this. Remove the two bolts on 

top.Actually got to thinking about it that will help but the only way to do this is to pop the pin out on the bake pad side

Edited December 31, 2019 by The Tool Crib

[wallfish 18,244]

4 hours ago, Indoorsoccerfrea said:

Here's a picture of the linkage back by the rear axle. I need to remove the connecting rod from the brake pedal to the emergency brake assembly, but there is no room between the emergency brake assembly and the frame to slide out the connecting rod. Is there a trick to this?

 

Depending on what you need to do, the rod is threaded into the trunion. Remove the rod from the brake pedal then unscrew it out of the trunion. Or unbolt the body panel so you have room to remove the trunion from the lever. Or, I'm not sure how much play there is on there but pry the lever away from the frame to see if there's enough room for the trunion to slide out of the lever. BE CAREFUL NOT TO BREAK THE LEVER. If it's going to slide ot should slide out fairly easy.  This may be easier if you remove the springs and loosen the nut on the rod to the brake band so the lever rotates forward so it's straight up.

 

[Pullstart 67,082]

With the adjustment trunion, why do you need to remove it altogether?  

[stevasaurus 23,307]

There is a roll pin holding (43) holding the pivot arm (42) on the idler arm shaft (41).  Open up the parts diagram in the above manual.  Roll pin is 1/8" x 1 1/4".