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MikMacMike

OK I dont know if I did this right, Ill post a diagram. Please do correct it or let me know if its wrong ok.

Screenshot from 2019-12-22 10-52-53.png

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ZXT
9 minutes ago, MikMacMike said:

OK I dont know if I did this right, Ill post a diagram. Please do correct it or let me know if its wrong ok.

Screenshot from 2019-12-22 10-52-53.png

With the exception of B+ being the center post on the rectifier, everything else looks right. I cant speak for the rectifier power though, since you're using a generic switch.

 

Here's the most common diagram that circulates around here. 

WH ignition sw.jpg

Edited by ZXT

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MikMacMike

Ya I just moved the ac and the b+ on the rectifier for drawing purposes, the rectifier I have is with the 2 ac's side by side but above the B+....it is well marked on it....now connecting to the key switch that where I had queries....its got my goat good actually.

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Tractorhead
38 minutes ago, MikMacMike said:

OK I dont know if I did this right, Ill post a diagram. Please do correct it or let me know if its wrong ok.

Screenshot from 2019-12-22 10-52-53.png

 

 

Based on you Schematics,

i would clamp the Rectifier via the ACC Port on the Key Switch,

otherwise you are not able to stop your Engine, except fuel is running low.

 

As you wired them, the Rectifier will support the Coil with Power, even if you switch the Key to off.

 

I also would suggesting to insert fuses in follow lines:

 

main Fuse in row to Ameter a 30 Amps to protect wires and Keylock

 

Lights here you can choose once a 10 Amps for all lights to protect wires from a short after Keyswitch,

or to each light pair (front and crossed backlight) a10 Amps.

Last system has the advantage if one line is scratched and will have a short you have a redundancy light.

even search for the failure is more simple.

 

Charging system a 20A to protect the rect. And the Wires.

 

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MikMacMike
3 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

 

 

Based on you Schematics,

i would clamp the Rectifier via the ACC Port on the Key Switch,

otherwise you are not able to stop your Engine, except fuel is running low.

 

As you wired them, the Rectifier will support the Coil with Power, even if you switch the Key to off.

 

I also would suggesting to insert fuses in follow lines:

 

main Fuse in row to Ameter a 30 Amps to protect wires and Keylock

 

Lights here you can choose once a 10 Amps for all lights to protect wires from a short after Keyswitch,

or to each light pair (front and crossed backlight) a10 Amps.

Last system has the advantage if one line is scratched and will have a short you have a redundancy light.

even search for the failure is more simple.

 

Charging system a 20A to protect the rect. And the Wires.

 

-Ahhh yes I see exactly what you mean. I will switch the B+ from rectifier to ass post.

And thank you about the fuses too. Im actually going to get a small fuse panel installed so I can use the newer style 2 pronged fuses to protect said items you mentioned. I am going to run led lighting, will probably add more as time permits. How many led's do you think I could run max with a .....and I am guessing its a 15 amp stator.

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Tractorhead

That depends on the consumpt of the collected LED Lights current drops.

 

simply to calculate.

 

12Watts on a 12 System drops 1A of current.

just as a comparsion.

 

that means you can be use a max. Of 120W for led Lights, that drops about 10A.

At a 15 A charging system you have 5 A for charging the Battery.

 

 

but as more spare for charging, i would suggest to keep the consumpted lights less than 8A,

the more it has also on short term use available for the charging system to recharge the Battery.

 

just as a suggestion.

 

 

 

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MikMacMike
2 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

That depends on the consumpt of the collected LED Lights current drops.

 

simply to calculate.

 

12Watts on a 12 System drops 1A of current.

just as a comparsion.

 

that means you can be use a max. Of 120W for led Lights, that drops about 10A.

At a 15 A charging system you have 5 A for charging the Battery.

 

 

but as more spare for charging, i would suggest to keep the consumpted lights less than 8A,

the more it has also on short term use available for the charging system to recharge the Battery.

 

just as a suggestion.

 

 

 

Right on thanks brother.

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Tractorhead

Btw,

most of the LED‘s on 12V are the current consumpt calculations given at direct 12V, except on Vehicle LED‘s.

LED‘s they normally used for Inhouse lightning with transformer are working on just regulated 12V.

 

 

they can sometimes differ and draw a bit more at a Vehicle, 

because a Tractors Voltage can reached 13,8 -14,4 Volts at full throttle.

 

Just to keep in mind buddy

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MikMacMike
16 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

Btw,

most of the LED‘s on 12V are the current consumpt calculations given at direct 12V, except on Vehicle LED‘s.

LED‘s they normally used for Inhouse lightning with transformer are working on just regulated 12V.

 

 

they can sometimes differ and draw a bit more at a Vehicle, 

because a Tractors Voltage can reached 13,8 -14,4 Volts at full throttle.

 

Just to keep in mind buddy

The ones i was looking at were at a store called parts supply....there an auot motive place, well subsiduary of Canadian tire actually.....these led's will fit right in the sockets for the regulare head light bulbs on the WH's. If I can Ill look them up later tonight when I head back in......eventually and I mean down the road when Im not so busy I might try and rewind one of the larger stators to boost up to 30 amps, if its possible??? the 30 amper stats for wheel horse seen to be on the rare side to say the least. So figured id I got the largest stator plates I can and then find out the guage and number turns I might succeed in more amperage.???

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Tractorhead

Same counts of wire but thicker wire will do the trick to increasing the Amperage.

 

as long as you have enough space for, it‘s just a bit of work.

best will be if you have an secondary damaged stator, to try on one coil if it fits.

 

to find out what diameter you need, you can once precalculate or just double the wire diameter.

 

final result can be measured by an clamp ammeter with a resistive load.

 

the most common thing i guess will be to find a regulator for that increase of amps.

 

if you didn‘t find anything, i would take a close look to windenergy systems.

 

another simple solution will be to use a Automotive Charger, couppled at a separate Pulley.

so you are simply able to increase the Charging system with different values.

 

older Automotive chargers are most cheap to get and easy to adapt.

But take care to get a Charger pre 2000, 

mostly newer Automotive chargers will be handled via Data Bus, to interrupt charging.

 

GM Rulez !

 

 

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MikMacMike
57 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

Same counts of wire but thicker wire will do the trick to increasing the Amperage.

 

as long as you have enough space for, it‘s just a bit of work.

best will be if you have an secondary damaged stator, to try on one coil if it fits.

 

to find out what diameter you need, you can once precalculate or just double the wire diameter.

 

final result can be measured by an clamp ammeter with a resistive load.

 

the most common thing i guess will be to find a regulator for that increase of amps.

 

if you didn‘t find anything, i would take a close look to windenergy systems.

 

another simple solution will be to use a Automotive Charger, couppled at a separate Pulley.

so you are simply able to increase the Charging system with different values.

 

older Automotive chargers are most cheap to get and easy to adapt.

But take care to get a Charger pre 2000, 

mostly newer Automotive chargers will be handled via Data Bus, to interrupt charging.

 

GM Rulez !

 

 

Hahahah yuppers I love all the GMs actually but chevy is still my babe.....I did see some very small or they call them mini alternators. there 1 wire. and they wernt badly priced in US dollars.....a bit pricey in Canadian dollars though....we always get ripped that way. I do have a 120 amp alt from the RV.....but Id might as well go an all electric drive if I went that big hahahahaha just kidding. Oh there is a site too I was reading up on....youve probably already heard of it though, the guy is in the USA, anyways he has some really neat get ups that his group has come up with including the electrics for Tractors.....there DIY setups but look like theyd be a good ticket....when I head back into the house tonight Ill look that up again and send you the link....get your opinion on how hes going about it, either way it still good reading too. I know youd understand about the electrical far better then me.....Im just a dummer plumber who pretends to be a mechanic hehehehe

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Tractorhead

Hehehe, don‘t put you light under, i also started my career as a Plumber...

 

The GM‘s we had here are mostly Opel,or vauxhall in GB, that‘s Cars, based on GM.

i like the Smallengine Cars, but don‘t like they‘re sound.

Nothing beats a real V8.

 

At the smaller cars here they called Opel Vectra or Astra or Corsa, there are Alternators with 30 A in.

 

They connected really simple, a ground wire, a Line called Batt+ What goes directly to battery and a line called D+ what must be routed via an 1,2 W controll bulb to the battery via Keyswitch,  that‘s it.

The D+ is handled via Keyswitch, if Alternator stay still the check light illuminates after ignition.

If key switch is on and generator moves, it will charge until 13,8 until 14,4 V below 0deg.C in Winter.

The check light will go off.

 

But a battery is urgently recommanded to Charge, otherwise the Alternator damages.

 

if you found such Genny, the regulator is built in or bolted on, super simple and super compact.

Here you can find them on Scrapyard for a few bucks.

to remove it, just 4 Screws to open.

Edited by Tractorhead

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MikMacMike

Ahhhhh you blow me away.......my very 1st car was a 1968 vauxhaul called a viva. It was GM's prelude to the chevette. That dam British made car never quit. It had a engine in it that I could lift out with out a hoist hahahah, in fact my mum sewing machine had a bigger motor on it...(kidding) it was so tiny. I know I was in high school, grade 10 if im not mistaken. I drove that beast with over sized snow tires here even when there was 2 feet of snow......my 1st job pumping gas at Elden Weises Shell station.....hey I made all of 1.85 an hour i think, gas I forgwet but i think it was 21c a gal when we had gallons. OMGoshhh, the trouble I got into with that baby.....if I rem correctly we called her the Vaux hahahahah, nun of my buds had cars so I was the go to guy.......I wont devolge on the womens side.....but notice I said women in plural hahahahahah.....After that I baught a 1970 AMC Javlen, pulled the 304 c.i. out rebuilt a 401 c.i....thats like 6.6 L motor in metric terms. I ported the heads, camed it raised the compression, suspension mods for cornering, mum had a upolstering company then in a town called Stirling ....she put in a crushed velour speceled blue interior, I had 70's on the front and 60's on the rear, tranny I swapped out for a chrysler 727 after I locked it up with a wicked shift kit and ran......hmmm i for get now I think 3:55 or 3;66 gears in the real......for a 2800 pound car dry weight there were no corvettes that wanted to race any more.....even the big blocks. Well as long as they were stock anyways.....Top end was 147 mph, it could have gone faster by far if I had say 3:08 gears or even 2:92 but I loved it when it snapped you back in your seat and you wanted to grab your head cuz you thought it was headed for the back seat hahah.....Oh ya the Vaux....my paw got the Vaux after  me and put a mustange or capri for V6 in it with mustang suspension....I think and only guessing but origonally that car was only about 2400 or less pounds......not sure what that is in stones hahahah, I lived in UK for a bit 3 times over the years....Anyways when my paw passed I gave the Vaux to a freind  next county over......he is trying to massage the Vauxes sheet metal to fit a 454 big block chevy with a sweet root blower on top....actually my brother n I old drag motor......I told him.......oh **** thats a death with brodere...and said look a 400 small block destroked would give you far better et's in the quarter.....but nope he's got a boner for biggies hahahahah, yup hes going to make my old Vaux a Vulture in a sparows clothing hahahah.   I almost baught the doctors I think 1973 Opel GT but my buddy burger baught it , frig was I pissed, thats the last time I brought a buddy to chk a ride out....now he put a 427 big block in the opel.......that miniture looking corvette, or what we call a poor mans Vette turned some seriouse et's down the quarter....but he ended up having a seriouse crash racing one day......end for end 1/2 way down the track, he got band from racing cuz he aquired seriouse brain injuries.....he will never be burger again but we still luv em. Holy crap did i get diariea of the mouth, I gotta get my ass back to work here hahahaha, thats the worst thing having a pc in the shop and a few beers to prime the oil galleries heheheh, one day I might be back in UK.....my ex lives there and I am still partial to her but dang shes got that scotish/Irish/English temper that I couldnt handle....ok enough gabbing gotta work.....WEW!!!! Besides my finger hurt from this stupid keyboard.......there ment to have pipe wrenches hahahahah

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Tractorhead

Hahaha, 

 

Whilst searching of the Pict about the Alternator and about my old Chevy, 

i had found a few Picts they’re about 20 Years old,

Took them after i had finalized the rework of my Friends Car and get it ready for TÜV road approval.

It was a Lincoln Town Car 

 

after that i had this Car for a whole Weekend to celebrate my Mom’s Birthday and to have some Fun with.

Because in younger Times, my Dad was deeper involved into US Car scene.

 

I have no Picts from my Old Chevy Suburban i liked to show you, but i found these in my collection.

it seems i lost few Picts over the years...

 

FAFE1E7D-F3DA-4AA5-9E8F-E67571EC65A1.jpeg

E90E13BC-376F-47F7-8C88-F70127D10F64.jpeg

F7971300-EA5B-49B2-9665-EAFA951C225B.jpeg

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MikMacMike

Oh ya, those old what we call land yaughts were the best.....power fricking everything. Besides a nuc could go off and youd just think it was the base in the stereo hahahaha they were so quiet inside.....**** chevy suburban.....around the corner from my ex's sons place there was a full size suburban in London UK.....My ex didnt think we drove those....she thought it was like a cube van or dilivery truck hahahaha, I told her that they had full interior and anyone who owned one was always the fav for wknd road trips. One of my paws buddies had one with a 454 big block, straight from the factory....most normally had the 350 sbc.... Dont get me wrong I love the high tech of today, I just love yester years bemoths better then today.....could you imagine if we but all this tek into a old Big block ........jesus we'd have a new nik for them instead of bemoth, prob be like..... hmmmm NASTY hahahahah= Not A Safe Truck Yoooo hahahahah. Listen I had too many beers tonight. Kind of relaxing on Big Red cuz its not going to be ready.....besides between this last year of trying to finish projects I been going 7 days a week, min 12+ hours. I think Im just going to sit down in the shop and get drunk for once.......Hey Merry Christmas bro....kick back time. This Lakers for you. Oh PS try to get that pic of the Burb ok....Id love to see it......they wer the ultimate in transportation by far,

image20191223_173506780[1].jpg

Edited by MikMacMike

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Tractorhead

Wish you also a merry christmas Buddy,

 keep your Head up high !

 

I had a few day‘s to relax, hope you too, we had it required and earned

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MikMacMike
2 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

Wish you also a merry christmas Buddy,

 keep your Head up high !

 

I had a few day‘s to relax, hope you too, we had it required and earned

My time is coming.....I have to get about 4 years worth of work out of the way fast. By now I had hoped to start on my RV....its supposed to be a 4x4 fully contained puppy. 1973 chevy class C camper. Once thats dun Ill be on the road in winter, north and south America seasonally, heck if I new I could drive to Europe id even do a east to west hahahahah, the russians want to build a bridge right now to Alaska.....I think the Stadians, I call them stadians cuz they wrongly took the name american away from Canada and Mexico and the other 21 countries that reside in North America and the 13 countries in South America..........The way they profess it as America is the USA....absolutly not so....Either way they are our brother and sisters and though they can be over bering as long as they profess true freedom along with any country that does, Id fight for them. Sheeesh tractorhead I think Ive drank too much hahahah. lately ive been wondering so off a topic its not funny. I think I should have another beer and just sit. lmao

Tractorhead a very Merry Christmas......get that egg nog out and share the best of times with all your family members, tease them tickle them, consol them and make the biggest smiles with them.....they really are all we have right! Cheers Bro

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MikMacMike

I picked up a fuse block yesterday.....Id have rather had a beefier one but being in a hurry to get the heck out of town with all the crazy last minute shoppers was my goal hahahaha, the block is plastic but it does have a cover, besides Im going to put it right directly behind the dash panel or plate, and its only temporary for now till I get everything situated to there final position.

image20191224_131707281[1].jpg

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MikMacMike
On 12/22/2019 at 12:11 PM, Tractorhead said:

 

 

Based on you Schematics,

i would clamp the Rectifier via the ACC Port on the Key Switch,

otherwise you are not able to stop your Engine, except fuel is running low.

 

As you wired them, the Rectifier will support the Coil with Power, even if you switch the Key to off.

 

I also would suggesting to insert fuses in follow lines:

 

main Fuse in row to Ameter a 30 Amps to protect wires and Keylock

 

Lights here you can choose once a 10 Amps for all lights to protect wires from a short after Keyswitch,

or to each light pair (front and crossed backlight) a10 Amps.

Last system has the advantage if one line is scratched and will have a short you have a redundancy light.

even search for the failure is more simple.

 

Charging system a 20A to protect the rect. And the Wires.

 

Hey Tractor head I tried to research as far as my patients would go and heres what I found so far, the stator I have might be a 10 or 15 amp. Remeber when you said 20 amp for amp to protect the rect. and wires? If it is only a 15 amp, or worse a 10 amp, what size fuse is best to protect them? still the 20 or should i reduce the fuse to 15 or 10? Im wireing it right now to the fuse panel I showed you I baught. I baught fuses from 10 right up to 30 amp.

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Tractorhead

Not too honesty but 

 

let me explain a bit more about the why and what.

i like to compare it to beer....😇😂😎

 

 

 

Why we using fuses and what they are for?

Compared to

Let me compare with a Box of beer

We want to safe not the box or the bottles, we wanna safe loss of Beer.

 

In electricity primary not to protect a regulator or a Ignition coil or similar.

This pieces of hardware shall do a defined job, once they consumpt electrical Power, once the give electrical power.

this depends on their function.

 

If all goes well, normally no fuse is needed.

Compared to

if you put a Box of Beer on a desk, normally nothing will happen with.

it still sits there, util you open the bottles.

 

but while we didn‘t work on a clean desk, they work in a harsh and vibrational envoirement.

We wanna protect our Wire harness against destruction from shorts.

electric parts can be damaged about shaking, corrosion or a loosen cable that scrubs bit on grounded metal

Compared to 

if your box of beer is on a shakin trolley, the beer becomes internal movement, and some overpressure can happen.

open that bottle will maybe not really fun, except for others😂

 

A normal Battery has a lot of power, mostly enough, to melt wired and start a fire but with a fuse this can be prevented.

Compared to

a full Box of beer has the ability to knock you out, but if the box is smashed nothing will be happen.

 

Basically each part has it‘s job, like the genny (alternator) produces current to charge the battery, if all works well all is fine.

compared to 

in the brewery, they filled the Beer into bottles, if all bottles are well, all is fine.

 

But how about a scraped Wire, you have to endpoints, once the battery once the regulator.

if the wire scraped somwhere, both of our expensive parts have to be protected from the shorts

to don‘t damage them As result of that scraped wire.

compared to

when few bottles rips, they wouldn‘t keep their contend ( beverage) if it‘s the last beer for the Day, hum... 😂

 

ok now we have fuses, but the Wires should be also take care of.

they should be dimensioned not too small to their diameter, one step oversized wasn‘t a mistake.

compared to

a bottle of beer has its content, there are bottles with 0,33l and bottles with 0,5l and bottles with 1,0l available.

but to fill an 0,5l in an 0,33l bottle will definiteley fail. even if you try to fill all boxcontent into one bottle.

 

boy, what comparsion....😂🤪😎

 

The dimensioning of Wire gauge depends on the current consumption of the load.

there are some info‘s to find a good choice.

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Compared to

the Brewery and the Taste depends on individual, but the Alcohol is mostly restricted to sort.

like a

helles will be arround 4,5 - 4,8 vol%

weissbier will be arround 4,5 - 5,6 vol%

bock will be arround 5,8 - 7,4vol% and so on....

 

 

the biggest current consumpt will be the Starter,

what drops typically between 60 - 180A depending on summer/ winter and Engine size.

compared to 

the most consumpt will be in opposite, summer is much, Winter is - ok also much.. 😂

 

But while the battery must be able to fireup the starter, it must be able to deliver several CCA

( cold cranking Amps)

that is more that enough, to light up any cable in case of Short.

depending on batterysize even a wrench can be melted easily.

compared to 

a Box of beer can also be dangerous, if it will be in Sun too long or be shakin too hard, bottles can explode or rips.

 

😂😂😂😎😇🤪🤔😂

 

To answer your question i work here in metric squaremillimeter (sqmm)

i would keep the

 

wires for charging system at 2,5 sqmm fused close to battery at 20Amps.

wire from Batt to Keyswitch at 6 sqmm fused with 25Amps close to Batt.

wire from Keyswitch to Solenoid in 2,5 sqmm  

wires for lightning ( if needed) from keyswitch to Lightswitch at 2,5 sqmm

and from Lightswitch to lights fused with 10A each side separately

Maincable from Battery to Starter via Solenoid 25 sqmm mainfuse at 120A

 

Main ground from batt to chassis and Engineblock 25sqmm

all wires must have the same diameter in ground as they have in positive.

 

 

 

Edited by Tractorhead

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MikMacMike
5 hours ago, Tractorhead said:

Not too honesty but 

 

let me explain a bit more about the why and what.

i like to compare it to beer....😇😂😎

 

 

 

Why we using fuses and what they are for?

Compared to

Let me compare with a Box of beer

We want to safe not the box or the bottles, we wanna safe loss of Beer.

 

In electricity primary not to protect a regulator or a Ignition coil or similar.

This pieces of hardware shall do a defined job, once they consumpt electrical Power, once the give electrical power.

this depends on their function.

 

If all goes well, normally no fuse is needed.

Compared to

if you put a Box of Beer on a desk, normally nothing will happen with.

it still sits there, util you open the bottles.

 

but while we didn‘t work on a clean desk, they work in a harsh and vibrational envoirement.

We wanna protect our Wire harness against destruction from shorts.

electric parts can be damaged about shaking, corrosion or a loosen cable that scrubs bit on grounded metal

Compared to 

if your box of beer is on a shakin trolley, the beer becomes internal movement, and some overpressure can happen.

open that bottle will maybe not really fun, except for others😂

 

A normal Battery has a lot of power, mostly enough, to melt wired and start a fire but with a fuse this can be prevented.

Compared to

a full Box of beer has the ability to knock you out, but if the box is smashed nothing will be happen.

 

Basically each part has it‘s job, like the genny (alternator) produces current to charge the battery, if all works well all is fine.

compared to 

in the brewery, they filled the Beer into bottles, if all bottles are well, all is fine.

 

But how about a scraped Wire, you have to endpoints, once the battery once the regulator.

if the wire scraped somwhere, both of our expensive parts have to be protected from the shorts

to don‘t damage them As result of that scraped wire.

compared to

when few bottles rips, they wouldn‘t keep their contend ( beverage) if it‘s the last beer for the Day, hum... 😂

 

ok now we have fuses, but the Wires should be also take care of.

they should be dimensioned not too small to their diameter, one step oversized wasn‘t a mistake.

compared to

a bottle of beer has its content, there are bottles with 0,33l and bottles with 0,5l and bottles with 1,0l available.

but to fill an 0,5l in an 0,33l bottle will definiteley fail. even if you try to fill all boxcontent into one bottle.

 

boy, what comparsion....😂🤪😎

 

The dimensioning of Wire gauge depends on the current consumption of the load.

there are some info‘s to find a good choice.

https://www.powerstream.com/Wire_Size.htm

Compared to

the Brewery and the Taste depends on individual, but the Alcohol is mostly restricted to sort.

like a

helles will be arround 4,5 - 4,8 vol%

weissbier will be arround 4,5 - 5,6 vol%

bock will be arround 5,8 - 7,4vol% and so on....

 

 

the biggest current consumpt will be the Starter,

what drops typically between 60 - 180A depending on summer/ winter and Engine size.

compared to 

the most consumpt will be in opposite, summer is much, Winter is - ok also much.. 😂

 

But while the battery must be able to fireup the starter, it must be able to deliver several CCA

( cold cranking Amps)

that is more that enough, to light up any cable in case of Short.

depending on batterysize even a wrench can be melted easily.

compared to 

a Box of beer can also be dangerous, if it will be in Sun too long or be shakin too hard, bottles can explode or rips.

 

😂😂😂😎😇🤪🤔😂

 

To answer your question i work here in metric squaremillimeter (sqmm)

i would keep the

 

wires for charging system at 2,5 sqmm fused close to battery at 20Amps.

wire from Batt to Keyswitch at 6 sqmm fused with 25Amps close to Batt.

wire from Keyswitch to Solenoid in 2,5 sqmm  

wires for lightning ( if needed) from keyswitch to Lightswitch at 2,5 sqmm

and from Lightswitch to lights fused with 10A each side separately

Maincable from Battery to Starter via Solenoid 25 sqmm mainfuse at 120A

 

Main ground from batt to chassis and Engineblock 25sqmm

all wires must have the same diameter in ground as they have in positive.

 

 

 

Thanks Tractorhead, Im going to go back through my wireing again and make sure I got it right, hi5 brother. I just downloaded this diagram showing conversions from sq,mm to gauge. It looks very close to what you explained.

Wire Gauge Converter - AWG versus square mm .png

Edited by MikMacMike

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Tractorhead

The „close to“  results from metric to inch conversion.

 

We didn‘t have a 26,7sqmm we use instead a 25sqmm, our cable companies allway‘s rounds to next full Value.

 

 

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MikMacMike
2 minutes ago, Tractorhead said:

The „close to“  results from metric to inch conversion.

 

We didn‘t have a 26,7sqmm we use instead a 25sqmm, our cable companies allway‘s rounds to next full Value.

 

 

Ya we do this when we pipe fit too, its safer that way right. I was raised on what we call standard or i think its called imperial....but honestly I think the whole world should go metric....its just a far easier system and we wouldnt have to convert lol.

  • Haha 1

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