The Most DIfficult Job?

[N875ED 98]

OK, I read once on this forum about three months ago that removing the steering wheel from the shaft is about the most difficult task when working on these tractors....and that's what I now need to do. On my 520H, my thinking is to use a hole saw to remove about a 3/4" diameter disc of plastic in the center of the wheel's hub to expose just the end of the steering shaft. (This is where the plastic was injected into the steering wheel mold at original manufacture.) When done properly, I'll have a hole in the wheel center with the end of the metal shaft down inside, which will be covered when the center plate is snapped back on after completion. By doing this, I can then do two things; 1. Spray some penetrant on the shaft/wheel interface to loosen the wheel's metal hub grip on the shaft and, 2. I can then get a steering wheel puller to perform its function of removing the wheel.

Thoughts?

[ebinmaine 73,015]

From what I've gathered so far the two most difficult things in the life of a Wheelhorse owner are most likely to be removal of the rear hubs or removal of the steering wheel as you stated above.

 

I've had the... Pleasure... Of trying to remove several hubs and it can be fun.

 

I have not yet tried to remove a steering wheel.

 

The only steering wheel puller I've ever seen or used threads into holes in the face of the wheel itself and I don't know if any of these horses have those holes.

 

Can you post a picture of the steering wheel puller you intend to use?

 

[N875ED 98]

EB:

 

It really isn't a steering wheel puller, per se, but a two-jaw bearing puller.

 

But, you give me an idea....why not drill and tap a pair of deep holes into the plastic, one on either side of the embedded hub in the wheel, and use a real-life steering wheel puller to remove it? (After copious quantities of penetrating oil, and time of course)

[ebinmaine 73,015]

I have a strong feeling that the threads would pull right out of the plastic immediately.

 

You may want to take a few minutes and do some searching on this website, on a PC. Don't use a smartphone like I do. A computer will give you a bunch of different information.

 

I've kind of gathered that a jaw type puller is only going to damage the plastic.

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,525]

See if you can slip a bearing splitter around the wheel below the hub. Then use a puller to pull the bearing splitter.

 

Garry

[oliver2-44 10,782]

6 minutes ago, gwest_ca said:

See if you can slip a bearing splitter around the wheel below the hub. Then use a puller to pull the bearing splitter.

 

Garry

As stated above and you may have to find some washers to split to put under the hub so they contact the metal part of the hub. You don’t want your bearing splitter pulling on the bottom plastic ring of the steering wheel

[The Tuul Crib 7,339]

 One like this I believe is what you're talking about 

[bottjernat1 2,194]

I have a custom made steering wheel puller my late dad bought from a guy. I don't know where he got it but i have never found another one like it online. its square and works like a dream!! ill have to get photos when i get home today. its pretty slick deal.

[ebinmaine 73,015]

58 minutes ago, bottjernat1 said:

I have a custom made steering wheel puller my late dad bought from a guy. I don't know where he got it but i have never found another one like it online. its square and works like a dream!! ill have to get photos ....

Yes please do..

[pacer 3,177]

That puller tool crib shows is by far THE best one to pull a splined or keyed wheel (generally called a 'clam shell' puller) Put the flat side under the wheel and if possible use an impact wrench. If not popped loose after a good bit of force take the trusty ole hammer and whack the end of the puller, this will usually do it. Good ole HF has that puller in a set - iots the one I've got and I've used the honk out of it, good tool to have around the shop for other things also........

[Stormin 9,985]

Nobody seems to have mentioned one little item. Remove the split dowel first.

 

[N875ED 98]

Oh yeah, I remembered to do that...took a dozen or so good hits with the ball peen and a 3/16" punch to get that out.

[WHNJ701 4,165]

2 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

 One like this I believe is what you're talking about 

this works great, it's a must have.  sometimes they won't come off, some I already cut with the dremel if I wasn't saving the wheel

[peter lena 9,316]

agree with n875ed on the spiral  roll pin , they can be very tough, my suggestion is to have help and side of wheel , solid block support it to wall , then use the 3/16 drift pin with hammer and penetrating oil , you  DO NOT WANT WHEEL BOUNCE , you want solid hammer to drift pin impact , that will move the pin , use never seize to reinstall. that clam shell remover  will help out once the spiral pin is out. pete

[troutbum70 858]

Getting the role pin out can be impossible, I have tried drilling with no success, the pin must be extremely hard.

[oliver2-44 10,782]

Some have mentioned drilling with a carbide glass bit. I haven’t tried it but it’s an option

[squonk 43,944]

16 hours ago, Stormin said:

Nobody seems to have mentioned one little item. Remove the split dowel first.

 

On my 1267 that dowel /pin was frozen in. I had to shear it when pulling the wheel

[squonk 43,944]

17 hours ago, The Tool Crib said:

 One like this I believe is what you're talking about 

A small bearing  splitter backed up by a big bearing splitter. A big honkin gear puller on the big splitter and a 24" crescent wrench turning the puller screw.

[Shirk 14]

I had to remove my steering wheel to change to gear reduction steering. I was not keeping the old shaft so I was not gentle with the old one and ended up getting it out attached to the wheel. Put the old shaft in a bench vise and after the pin was completely out twisted the wheel back and forth and low and behold it popped off.  Not sure if you have a replacement shaft but on mine once the wheel broke free it popped off easily. Maybe try to lock the wheels somehow and turn the steering wheel once the pin is out to try to free it.

[doc724 925]

I have pulled off several steering wheels from as old as 1978 to as new as 1996.  I never did any of the stuff several have suggested (and I never broke one either).  Patience and Kroil is all it takes.  Spray the roll pin and the underside of the steering wheel where the steering shaft enters the center hub of the wheel liberally with the Kroil.  Do this every day for 3-4 days using the Kroil.  Then get a punch set and knock out the roll pin.  It does indeed come out.  Kroil is made by Kano Labs and I think they are in IL or IN. 

 

Position the tractor so the front wheels are prevented from turning.  Grab the steering wheel with your hands and turn it.  With the front wheels being fixed from turning, the steering wheel should break free from the rust on the shaft.

 

BTW, IMO the most difficult job?  Getting a rear hitch pin out of the transaxle (without the aid of a hydraulic press)