Ignition Switch...again

[Macwrench 133]

Ok, I know this topic is all over this site and I've used the search and read quite a bit over the last few days.  Also, I read pretty much every ignition switch topic before I ordered mine.  Still, I haven't found anything that says plainly what changes, so I want to bounce this off of y'all.

 

1.  Old switch is a 5 pin connector (original for sure), with pins G-L-M-S-B

2.  New STENS 430-662 adds a 6th pin for 'G', and appears to replace 'L' (lights) with 'A' (accessory), and uses 'R' for regulator.

 

Currently, the power for the lights is shared with the regulator (weird afterthought I'm sure).  With the new switch, the lights and regulator will be separated.  Sounds like it should work just fine, but the connector will need to be rewired (so I got a new pigtail)

 

Also, in operation, the only difference (or change) will be:  no power to lights or regulator in 'START' position (don't think it needs that), and 'A' (accessory or lights in this case) are grounded in 'OFF' position.

It will still ground the magneto in off to kill the Kohler motor like it should.

 

Am I missing something?  Let me know your thoughts.

Edited November 10, 2019 by Macwrench

[pfrederi 17,129]

With your new switch in the start position you want continuity between B and S only. You are correct no power to A or R.   In run  position Continuity between B, R, A.

 

Obviously never any continuity between M and anything else except ground  and that only in Off

[Macwrench 133]

7 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

With your new switch in the start position you want continuity between B and S only. You are correct no power to A or R.   In run  position Continuity between B, R, A.

 

Obviously never any continuity between M and anything else except ground  and that only in Off

 

Ok, thanks pfrederi!  I've read a ton about "new switch worked great!", but nothing about anyone having to completely rewire the ignition switch wiring like I'm about to do.  Got no problem doing it, but misery loves company! 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

Are you replacing original switch 116338 for a 1992 312-8? Click on the picture for more details.

There is a note on the one diagram stating the original switch terminals may not be properly identified.

Stens shows no replacement for this switch.

Garry

[Macwrench 133]

1 hour ago, gwest_ca said:

Are you replacing original switch 116338 for a 1992 312-8? Click on the picture for more details.

There is a note on the one diagram stating the original switch terminals may not be properly identified.

Stens shows no replacement for this switch.

Garry

Ugh!  Thanks Garry!  This is the EXACT switch I need. 

 

I looked at a 3112K802 IPC, and not the 3112K804 thinking they would be the same.  They are not!  My dumb mistake.  The -804 shows the 116338 just like you say, and you are correct... no substitutions.  I think my suggested mods above would work just fine, but I'm going to go ahead and order the correct PN switch just to save some work.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,488]

This one I think has 5/8" threads for mounting where the other has 9/16". Depending where you look at Stens the other may have 13/16" threads. Conflicting info a Stens for the 103991 magneto switch to what they did have.

 

Garry

[biged77 107]

If you order the new switch and it works fine let us know.  If not there may be a problem separating the wires from the regulator and the lights since the seat switch is also in this circuit.  The old switch provided battery voltage to the seat switch in Start but the new switch does not.

 

Ed

[953 nut 51,541]

On 11/10/2019 at 5:16 PM, Macwrench said:

thinking they would be the same.  They are not!  My dumb mistake.

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