Picked up a clean tall shoot

[wallfish 15,919]

28 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

I seen them after I wrote that but the one is mostly gone... I have toyed with the idea of making them out of billet aluminium.

Oooo, Kinda like that idea. Let me know if you do. There's gotta be a better way to hold those chutes

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

28 minutes ago, nylyon said:

did you make that inner deflector does that help?

Yes to both... But you can buy from TORO https://www.partstree.com/models/79360-toro-42-snow-thrower-for-300-series-garden-tractors-sn-079000001-079999999-1997/chute-and-direction-control-2/... #19

[tom2p 2,393]

On 11/7/2019 at 2:30 PM, peter lena said:

just installed my 36x42  single stage blower , this my lubricant of choice  https://www.movingupgaragedoors.com/lubriplate-11-ounces-chain-and-cable-areosol-spray?utm_source=google_shopping&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=Cj0KCQiAno_uBRC1ARIsAB496IVUdPoVze1bZRr8-RTHXXtq85YJ8ysBqmCaR2_X_78VESnfy4Onqo4aAo-uEALw_wcB , you will notice and hear a smoothness and pick up with this. it also comes in a heavy black spray , i have never found another lube that penetrates and stays with rotational equipment like this. i also use this to rustproof mower decks , all of my decks are soaking now in lube over winter , zero rust and clean up easily. this is just moo , pete

wow - great price on a great lubricant 

 

that stuff is hard to find (and at almost double that price)

[wallfish 15,919]

19 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

. I have toyed with the idea of making them out of billet aluminium.

What do you think about using the billet aluminum but attaching small sealed bearings to them to ride on the bottom of that rail instead of a channel groove? And maybe 1 horizontal to keep the chute centered over the snowblower body hole? They're fairly inexpensive for 10 1/4 bore bearings and 9 should do it. Attached a quick half a$$ drawing to show what I was thinking about. Might just be over kill and maybe the bearings could just be added to a set of worn plastic guides.

https://www.amazon.com/PGN-R4-2RS-Sealed-Bearing-Lubricated/dp/B07GT739PV/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=1%2F4+in+ball+bearing&qid=1573590355&sr=8-4

 

[lynnmor 6,777]

My theory is that the plastic guides break from the tall chute meeting a stiff snow bank.  It just might be better to not have solid metal and have the plastic break rather than other damage.  If you keep this in mind, then you might attack those drifts with care.

[wallfish 15,919]

18 minutes ago, lynnmor said:

My theory is that the plastic guides break from the tall chute meeting a stiff snow bank.  It just might be better to not have solid metal and have the plastic break rather than other damage.  If you keep this in mind, then you might attack those drifts with care.

Very good point. Mine is a 2 stage so there's quite a bit of room before the chute can touch any drifts. My problem is they are worn, not broken and the chute can wobble around quite a bit. Hence the order I just placed with you for the replacement guides and this should've been done a couple of years ago.

Once the new parts arrive maybe I can add bearings to the old worn plastic guides which will still leave that factor of breaking the guide rather than bending something else but it might eliminate the quick wearing of guide channel and keep the chute tight and smooth. But, they might end up just breaking easier because of the removed material. Backyard engineering with lots of trial and error is my usual way

[lynnmor 6,777]

I make the guides with the same clearance as new factory guides, there is a fair amount of play when new.  I use both single and two stage tall chute blowers and haven't seen a lot of wear, just some breakage on the single that has more exposure to drifts.  I have removed snow that was higher than the top of the chute and now try to undermine the drift a bit and lift to break the overhang.  The three large driveways I do are all paved, so not a lot of grit to cause wear and that probably is the biggest help.

 

I am skeptical about the bearings as that will be only a few points of contact taking all the load.

 

[WVHillbilly520H 10,369]

My experience with the broken ones were more from sun exposure than damage... As they set out (no shed/garage) exposed to the sun the plastic they are made of become brittle then while we are removing snow most times the temps are 40° or less melting then frozen snow all come together creating this issue... My single stage sat in a dark building while not in use no broken guides but the 2stage and xi single both sat outside 2 out of 3 guides were brittle and cracked/broken on each... Luckily the fella I got the xi thrower from had bought new ones but never installed till I got it... And the duece I robbed off my original single so I haven't had to pony up the $ for a set yet... Honestly the billet aluminium with or without bearings has to be better than the hard plastic Just My (machinist) Opinion.

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,120]

Too cold to wash it down, has a lot of dust from sitting in a garage, but here's what I picked up 2 weeks ago.  Original paint, everything spins freely and without wobble, but it needs a coat of paint on the bare metal and the auger straightened out from where it picked up rocks on a gravel driveway. 

 

(don't mind those oil spots, Megan's A4 needed cam adjuster seals and was crying about that)

 

I just finished adjusting everything and making sure everything is well lubricated.   Of course we're not going to have any snow to use this on this year, so hopefully  the plan will work!

 

 

 

 

 

[AHS 1,411]

On 11/7/2019 at 12:19 PM, Herder said:

As for the caked up snow, spry down the inside of the chute and even the auger with WD-40 or something along that line.  This will reduce the amount of snow buildup and keep you moving along.  

I use fluid film to keep it from rusting, on my shute too. I mean, WD 40 would work too, that should keep it from rusting.

[peter lena 8,067]

those plastic guide pieces might be available at a local h/w store , in the small parts pull out drawer section. i regularly go over basic rotational function on w/h systems , they always lack a fit detail , and are very sloppy in their function. they work, but not easily. find using metal and Teflon washers really makes it work with out effort, i also use a silicone grease to enhance contact points. just trying and improving any of these  attachments gives you the opportunity to  make it work like it should. jmoo, pete 

[wallfish 15,919]

The worm gear needs adjusting which is why it's not turning great and quite possibly the reason it went up for sale. The worm gear should ride deep in the grooves of the chute. Sometimes takes a little playing with because the chute can move around on the guides. Push the chute away from the worm gear then adjust the worm gear into the chute. Too tight and it binds, too loose and it skips teeth. Find the sweet spot.

 

 

[nylyon-(Admin) 7,120]

I'll give that a shot on Friday.  The shoot is moving very freely now, if you look in the original photo from when I picked it up, there's an elastic cord from the top of the shoot deflector to the housing. I don't know why this was there, but I removed it releasing the pressure on the shoot and it rotates freely.  I do want to adjust it properly though and will give that a go tomorrow!  Thanks for the extra eyes.

[berriesandnuts 1]

I think I've fixed the issues I was having. Thanks to the replies,  and also buying the plastic guides. 

 

Just in time to test out with that recent storm,  but now,  I'm realizing another issue. 

 

Seems the blower is drooping/ hanging low on one side.  Not sure if it's from digging through built up snow on the edge of driveway.  But anyone know where I could get another one of these brackets?

 

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,498]

[peter lena 8,067]

two areas show up to me on function , first, the edge of the snow auger blade can easily be bent back , using  2 large adjustable wrenches working in oposet  ways on the same problem spot, easily brings the area back . second was the total lack of lubrication on any of the frictional mounting/ movement points ,preventing it from working smoothly and spinning up to belt drive speed. the upper slide bar stop appears to have slid out of its mounting hole , preventing the forward latch from securing itself. i would drop the plow frame hook up to the teck a matic , and look at the correct set up on the right side , then match the the setting to the left side, lubrication will help those rusted areas work in a smoother manner, jmoo , pete

[Mudrig150 298]

20 hours ago, berriesandnuts said:

I think I've fixed the issues I was having. Thanks to the replies,  and also buying the plastic guides. 

 

Just in time to test out with that recent storm,  but now,  I'm realizing another issue. 

 

Seems the blower is drooping/ hanging low on one side.  Not sure if it's from digging through built up snow on the edge of driveway.  But anyone know where I could get another one of these brackets?

 

Should be able to loosen the 4 tach-a-matic bolts and pop the lock back in. Unless it broke, then you'd have to get a new one.