Jump to content
Ch_Indy

Old Electric PTO Clutch

Recommended Posts

Ch_Indy


I have a pto like the one in this post. Is there a post that has the way of disassembling this clutch? I took off the snap rings hoping it would move with some firm hits, but it doesn't. I have access to a press, but again how to hold it up on the pulley is the trick. It could easily trash trash the coil and or the pulleys if it's not held evenly and firmly. I've successfully put bearings in the newer style clutches, but this one is stuck. It really needs new bearings. Thanks in advance.
BTY my tractor is a mutt or perhaps a high bred in the horse world. C111 with a 12 hp Kohler. She is a great machine. I mainly blow snow with it and during the warm months I have a blade on it for moving dirt or stone. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Check out my thread on Electric PTOs.  You do not need a press.  however getting it separated requires some serious slamming...There are some TSBs in the thread that you should look at.  After you get yours open I can help you find bearings.. There were some changes over time.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ch_Indy

Thanks that's pretty slick. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
adsm08
12 minutes ago, pfrederi said:

Check out my thread on Electric PTOs.  You do not need a press.  however getting it separated requires some serious slamming...There are some TSBs in the thread that you should look at.  After you get yours open I can help you find bearings.. There were some changes over time.

 

 

 

After reading that thread, and see the issues supposedly caused by the sudden engagement of the PTO, do  you think there would be any value to having them on a rheostat, rather than a simple on/off.

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ch_Indy
21 minutes ago, adsm08 said:

 

After reading that thread, and see the issues supposedly caused by the sudden engagement of the PTO, do  you think there would be any value to having them on a rheostat, rather than a simple on/off.

I haven't had this problem with my electric pto. I ran a mower deck for a few years and now I run a snow blower. The key and keyways look great. I usually engage the pto at low RPMs which will relieve much of the shock. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

I do not blame the keyway damage on the electric PTO.  I just do not like the violent engagement ...not bad with a mower deck but risky with a snowblower that may be be full of frozen slush it is hard on the implement.  i have to use one on my sweepster tractor and i do engage at low speed and there is no serious resistance still shakes thing more than i like..

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966
3 hours ago, Ch_Indy said:


I have a pto like the one in this post. Is there a post that has the way of disassembling this clutch? I took off the snap rings hoping it would move with some firm hits, but it doesn't. I have access to a press, but again how to hold it up on the pulley is the trick. It could easily trash trash the coil and or the pulleys if it's not held evenly and firmly. I've successfully put bearings in the newer style clutches, but this one is stuck. It really needs new bearings. Thanks in advance.
BTY my tractor is a mutt or perhaps a high bred in the horse world. C111 with a 12 hp Kohler. She is a great machine. I mainly blow snow with it and during the warm months I have a blade on it for moving dirt or stone. 

Thought I recognized that picture...it is from my archives.  Here is another pic from my 'stash' that may help in taking the E-PTO apart to replace the bearings. The smaller Field Bearing is #6204-2RSR.   I have a good used larger bearing # 166-0144 shown here.  That 166-0144 bearing new is about $75 bux....   I can send you my good used bearing for $50...shipped.  It has no drag and no wobble...wouldn't know it from new.  

apart.jpg

bng 001.JPG

elect pto (3).JPG

Edited by daveoman1966
  • Excellent 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ch_Indy

I took it apart tonight. It went pretty well. The larger bearing is an odd size. I did find this part number is a match. Nachi 6207X40Mm 2Rs. My PTO is pretty old, but it works good. In the picture you can see the protective material on the winding is coming apart. That didn't happen from pounding on it though. It was that way already. I was thinking about IMG_0299.JPG.b25f05ccccadc2d421c81572e9239804.JPGg some epoxy on it to seal it up. Anyone had any experience with this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ch_Indy

Okay the picture ate my text. I'll repeat what is missing. The cracks and missing material was already there before pounding on it. Also I was thinking of putting some epoxy on it to seal it. Anyone had any experience with this?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
daveoman1966

I've used red silicone (or black) from a squeeze tube in preference to epoxy.  Just pick away the loose sand-like material and smooth over with the silicone sealer.  Silicone stays a little soft, unlike epoxy that gets hard.  Let the sicicone dry a few hours before use.    

Edited by daveoman1966
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ch_Indy
On 10/21/2019 at 10:05 PM, pfrederi said:

I do not blame the keyway damage on the electric PTO.  I just do not like the violent engagement ...not bad with a mower deck but risky with a snowblower that may be be full of frozen slush it is hard on the implement.  i have to use one on my sweepster tractor and i do engage at low speed and there is no serious resistance still shakes thing more than i like..

At low RPMs if the snow blower doesn't turn the engine will die. The belt and the spring loaded belt tensioner absorb a fair amount of the shock from engagement as well. Electric ptos are on the newer tractors, so it's not like it is outdated technology. The only real problems I've had with mine is the bearings going bad. Knock on wood.......

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Ch_Indy
19 hours ago, daveoman1966 said:

I've used red silicone (or black) from a squeeze tube in preference to epoxy.  Just pick away the loose sand-like material and smooth over with the silicone sealer.  Silicone stays a little soft, unlike epoxy that gets hard.  Let the sicicone dry a few hours before use.    

Using silicone had crossed my mind. I'll go that route. One concern was interfering with the magnet strength, but silicone shouldn't affect that. Thanks again your help is greatly appreciated. There is a person on ebay that has several of the larger bearings for about $35 with shipping. So far I haven't seen a better price.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Nachi-6207X40Mm-2Rs-Deep-Groove-Ball-Bearing-2-Rubber-Seals-40Mm-Bore/133113121733?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Tractorhead

The Magnet Strength wasn‘t irritated by Silicone at all.

Also epoxy doesn‘t irritate magnetic field.

 

The biggest advance by using Silicone instead of epoxy was,

silicone has a rubber like Surface and will not be harmed by shaking or vibrations.

 

After my Engineswap, i destroyed inadvertently my Clutch, because it was rusted to strong to the shaft

and i used too much force to remove it. A stupid fail at myself.

 

I try to repair it, but no chance at all, the destroy was to massive.

Then i ordered a new Clutch and it seems to work fine so far.

What i missed by using the new Clutch, was the forces.

 

That means the swapped 16 HP Engine has much more torque, that was too much for the 12 HP Electric PTO and on longer works,

the light friction on long term run based on that more of torque overheats the whole Clutch until it melts.

 

After i changed again to a new Clutch, i realized, that the new Clutch reaches a max. Temperature of 40 deg.C

even on continouse working. ( more as one hour continousely)

The previous Clutch can not be touched after 20min‘s of mowing higher grass.

First when i loosing the Magnetic field (clutch releases, even if Engaged by Switch) 

i realize, there was something wrong.

 

i searched on a worn belt or a to loosen Idler Pulley, but i was wrong.

 

Why i wrote this?

because Red (stove) Silicone was able to last Temperatures up to 200deg.C

much more than epoxy can.

Epoxy can last a max. Of 120deg.C, depending on resin.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...