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wheelwhores

HELP! WH newb - looking for recommendation

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tom2p
4 hours ago, wheelwhores said:

more questions, Onan or Kohler....any advantages/preferences and why?  Which is easier to work on, more reliable?   any know issues?   i'm leaning towards a 4 or 5oo series with a hydro so narrowing my options a bit, we have some tighter spaces in our yard so probably looking for a smaller 42" moving deck.


Kohler Magnum - single cylinder cast iron block 

 

simple and durable as an anvil 

 

8 speed might be a better choice with Kohler Magnum ; require little maintenance (many receive zero maintenance)

 

 

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12Horse Paladin

I will vote for an older c series. Specifically a c120. Manual or auto up to you, but auto is nice if you do any plowing or such.

That 12horse will do all you want n ask of it, and mu h more. Yes i want other models. But thats variety, thatsall, lol.

Fwiw, look at my username...and this pic.

Currently all i n my Dad own n use are 12Horses....and thats all he had ever used😉

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Edited by 12Horse Paladin
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ZXT
28 minutes ago, 12Horse Paladin said:

I will vote for an older c series. Specifically a c120.

:text-yeahthat:but without a Tecumseh!

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12Horse Paladin
47 minutes ago, ZXT said:

:text-yeahthat:but without a Tecumseh!

🤣

I get that comment tho...but they run pretty sweet, setup right.

Got two 46 yr old ones on both my snoblowers...

As to the tractors...well, all we have/run so far is the Kohler...and yea, love that motor👍

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wheelwhores

***UPDATE***  on my search of a redrocket

 

So i think i may have found a nice project machine, it's a few hours away but here is what i know.   Ask is $500.  520H, 434 hours.  comes with wheel weights, chains, snow blower and mower deck.  Good runner, but sheet metal is rusty.pulley on mower deck keeps jumping off and snow blower main gear teeth are worn down enough to make it inoperable, so that might be a good negotiation point. 

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wheelwhores

Not sure what you guys can glean from these photos but i would love the input!

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peter lena

wheelwhores , my initial impression was a pretty good deal, that you might even improve on given the shape and neglect of what i am seeing. hours on tractor are good , its lack of care make it look like a train wreck. you will have to thoroughly baseline the service on the tractor to verify what you have. the finish is rough  , but if its a good runner , paint prep will make it new. the blower has to be rebuilt, those worn gears , reflect no lubrication during use. the mower deck is probably totally neglected also . what you manage to recover from the deal , is up to you. keep us informed , pete  

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ZXT
1 hour ago, wheelwhores said:

Not sure what you guys can glean from these photos but i would love the input!

Looks rough but with that low of hours... Dang! Have you verified that the hour meter works? I'd check that for sure. Could be broken and have 2400 hours on it.

 

I'd negotiate a bit but I don't see how you could get hurt. Might be rough but it'll make a great work tractor.

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wheelwhores
2 hours ago, peter lena said:

wheelwhores , my initial impression was a pretty good deal, that you might even improve on given the shape and neglect of what i am seeing. hours on tractor are good , its lack of care make it look like a train wreck. you will have to thoroughly baseline the service on the tractor to verify what you have. the finish is rough  , but if its a good runner , paint prep will make it new. the blower has to be rebuilt, those worn gears , reflect no lubrication during use. the mower deck is probably totally neglected also . what you manage to recover from the deal , is up to you. keep us informed , pete  

Also aside from good sheet metal and freely spinning spindles what should I check for on the deck?

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

How difficult and costly is a rebuild on the blower?  Mechanically I'd imagine their pretty simple assembly so not too worried about level of dificulty/effort.  Am I correct in that it's the more desirable tall chute version?  Not sure if it's 1 or 2 stage.

2 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

Pete when you say baseline what do you mean?...remember I'm a quick study but a rookie.  Do you mean do all the required service back a ways to make sure it's all good to go from that standpoint?

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wheelwhores
1 hour ago, ZXT said:

Looks rough but with that low of hours... Dang! Have you verified that the hour meter works? I'd check that for sure. Could be broken and have 2400 hours on it.

 

I'd negotiate a bit but I don't see how you could get hurt. Might be rough but it'll make a great work tractor.

How do you verify the meter works...just run it for a while and watch?  I'm hoping for somewhere in the 3-400 range.  I figure even as a parts machine it's worth that.

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PeacemakerJack

I saw this one and was mildly interested but it is about 5 hours away for me...one way.  If it was closer, I would’ve pursued it for sure.  That said...if it has a functional battery on it and you turn the key to the run position, and wait a little bit, you will hear the hourmeter click and make some noise indicating that it is running.  With that kind of rust on the sheet metal,  look over the wiring and any parts that need to move and make sure that you have a good idea of what condition it is in.  Sometimes when they look like that, they are severely neglected in every way.  Sometimes, they have just been stored outside but yet the maintenance has been kept up...check the oil, rear end fluid, look for fresh grease at the spindles and pivot points.  

 

That said, anything can be fixed but you have to decide how much you want to put into something.  I think that you can try to deal on it as the others have mentioned but if it runs decent and functions, it would make a nice worker...

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wheelwhores
11 minutes ago, PeacemakerJack said:

I saw this one and was mildly interested but it is about 5 hours away for me...one way.  If it was closer, I would’ve pursued it for sure.  That said...if it has a functional battery on it and you turn the key to the run position, and wait a little bit, you will hear the hourmeter click and make some noise indicating that it is running.  With that kind of rust on the sheet metal,  look over the wiring and any parts that need to move and make sure that you have a good idea of what condition it is in.  Sometimes when they look like that, they are severely neglected in every way.  Sometimes, they have just been stored outside but yet the maintenance has been kept up...check the oil, rear end fluid, look for fresh grease at the spindles and pivot points.  

 

That said, anything can be fixed but you have to decide how much you want to put into something.  I think that you can try to deal on it as the others have mentioned but if it runs decent and functions, it would make a nice worker...

Only about 2 for me :) still a trek though

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roadapples

Steering should bring over $300...

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oliver2-44

On the mower deck look for:

Any holes are sever rust on deck shell, especially under pulleys where wet grass piles up.

What condition the semi circle baffels under the deck around the blades are in

What condition the rollers are in

What condition the blade spindle housings are in. if they are aluminum they get corroded away by wet grass

What condition the mule drive pulleys  bearings are in.

 

   

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Lost.soul.collecter

:text-welcomeconfetti: hope you love your first wheel horse I started with one the 520-8 and fell in love with them now I own 5 and I'm about to go and buy 2 more this weekend it's like a addiction lol

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ebinmaine
1 hour ago, Lost.soul.collecter said:

buy 2 more this weekend

:wwp:

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WVHillbilly520H

Yes that is the more desirable SINGLE stage tall chute thrower as long as the auger sprocket isn't worn off all the other pieces are easy fixes... I bought a '95 520 with 236 actual hours and it looked nearly as bad as that if they used it to throw salted snow that could explain the rust anyways it's worth what you are willing to pay and happy with in the end.

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Pullstart

@wheelwhores I’m not very interested in later model tractors, but I’ll let you in on a little saying that’s spoken here once in a while.  RUN, DON’T WALK!  That probably won’t last long at that price...  there is a lot of value in the tractor as just parts, if that is the case.  

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wheelwhores
3 minutes ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Yes that is the more desirable SINGLE stage tall chute thrower as long as the auger sprocket isn't worn off all the other pieces are easy fixes... I bought a '95 520 with 236 actual hours and it looked nearly as bad as that if they used it to throw salted snow that could explain the rust anyways it's worth what you are willing to pay and happy with in the end.

It sounds like it was primarily a snow mover...which would explain maybe why the blow gear is gone, near canada do heavy snow fall up that way.  It's a family machine that was passed from one cousin to another and then down to the son, so third own (I'd be 4th).

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WVHillbilly520H

BTW I have cut off the auger sprocket and machined/welded a new to the auger.

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wheelwhores

More pictures of the guts of the machine for your review :).  Sounds like the hour meter is working, he ran it for about a half hour and that is what ticked off on the meter.

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wheelwhores
18 hours ago, peter lena said:

wheelwhores , my initial impression was a pretty good deal, that you might even improve on given the shape and neglect of what i am seeing. hours on tractor are good , its lack of care make it look like a train wreck. you will have to thoroughly baseline the service on the tractor to verify what you have. the finish is rough  , but if its a good runner , paint prep will make it new. the blower has to be rebuilt, those worn gears , reflect no lubrication during use. the mower deck is probably totally neglected also . what you manage to recover from the deal , is up to you. keep us informed , pete  

Also aside from good sheet metal and freely spinning spindles what should I check for on the deck?

18 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

How difficult and costly is a rebuild on the blower?  Mechanically I'd imagine their pretty simple assembly so not too worried about level of dificulty/effort.  Am I correct in that it's the more desirable tall chute version?  Not sure if it's 1 or 2 stage.

18 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

Pete when you say baseline what do you mean?...remember I'm a quick study but a rookie.  Do you mean do all the required service back a ways to make sure it's all good to go from that standpoint?

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Pullstart

Good Lord that’s a lot of wires!  I still maintain the Run, Don’t Walk attitude...

 

If you can poke and prod the deck for rusted through spots, or run it while listening for quiet or noisy spindles, that should be enough inspection... however if the deck was total junk, it would still be a good deal.  All still coming from a guy who’d much rather stick with the 50’s-70’s models.

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Darb1964

I would buy that tractor, gem 💎in the rough!!

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peter lena

baseline maintenance is verifying that all lubrication is new and fresh, greasing included , jack up front end so the lower end of axle bend gets grease, next up your electrical set up probably has some corroded connections , i would pull every slide on and lightly sand the slide on point, then lightly dielectric grease each point to insure the connection. i would change the trans oil and filter, that mower deck is probably packed  with rotted grass and wiped out blades. if its solid and no rust or rot, you can plan on rebuilding the spindles and belt set up, the blower chain driven gearing for the main auger can be replaced along with the pto driven pulleys and belt. i would go after getting it into a solid running state, much later if you want to do a paint and clean up . you have a lot to do,  that tall chute blower favors dry powdery snow , short chute for wetter snow. i can,t go into detail here on all of it , go after the worst or predominate areas first, let us know how you are doing , many of us have done similar recoveries , good luck , pete    

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