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HELP! WH newb - looking for recommendation

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wheelwhores
52 minutes ago, peter lena said:

baseline maintenance is verifying that all lubrication is new and fresh, greasing included , jack up front end so the lower end of axle bend gets grease, next up your electrical set up probably has some corroded connections , i would pull every slide on and lightly sand the slide on point, then lightly dielectric grease each point to insure the connection. i would change the trans oil and filter, that mower deck is probably packed  with rotted grass and wiped out blades. if its solid and no rust or rot, you can plan on rebuilding the spindles and belt set up, the blower chain driven gearing for the main auger can be replaced along with the pto driven pulleys and belt. i would go after getting it into a solid running state, much later if you want to do a paint and clean up . you have a lot to do,  that tall chute blower favors dry powdery snow , short chute for wetter snow. i can,t go into detail here on all of it , go after the worst or predominate areas first, let us know how you are doing , many of us have done similar recoveries , good luck , pete    

Thank you so much pete!

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wheelwhores
21 hours ago, peter lena said:

wheelwhores , my initial impression was a pretty good deal, that you might even improve on given the shape and neglect of what i am seeing. hours on tractor are good , its lack of care make it look like a train wreck. you will have to thoroughly baseline the service on the tractor to verify what you have. the finish is rough  , but if its a good runner , paint prep will make it new. the blower has to be rebuilt, those worn gears , reflect no lubrication during use. the mower deck is probably totally neglected also . what you manage to recover from the deal , is up to you. keep us informed , pete  

Also aside from good sheet metal and freely spinning spindles what should I check for on the deck?

21 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

How difficult and costly is a rebuild on the blower?  Mechanically I'd imagine their pretty simple assembly so not too worried about level of dificulty/effort.  Am I correct in that it's the more desirable tall chute version?  Not sure if it's 1 or 2 stage.

21 hours ago, peter lena said:

 

Pete when you say baseline what do you mean?...remember I'm a quick study but a rookie.  Do you mean do all the required service back a ways to make sure it's all good to go from that standpoint?

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wheelwhores

Pretty convinced I'll be going to look at this in the next few weeks.  What I've learned about 520H.  Onans can be reliable, but pricey to fix and prone to overheating.  1100 Eaton hydro is preferred unit.  Sounds like they tend to have electrical problems...any comments on these findings? 

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roadapples

I wouldn't expect that to be there in a few weeks....

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WVHillbilly520H

I can tell you from personal experience with a tall chute single hitched to a 520H it does not matter dry powdery or wet snow (unless it's plain slush or packed liked DOT plow banks) it will do just fine with either when the auger isn't in too terrible shape and the PTO belt is properly adjusted as well as the drive chain... Ran that exact set up for close 15 years the biggest issue is with the lighter snow usually you end up wearing it no matter which direction the chute is pointed without a cab vs the short chute version...which I have no :wh: experience only an older Cub Cadet short chute.

Snow2-3-09.jpg

Screenshot_2019-11-07-16-48-49.png

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WVHillbilly520H
19 minutes ago, roadapples said:

I wouldn't expect that to be there in a few weeks....

Take heed to this... Run don't walk don't wait it won't be there.

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Lost.soul.collecter
21 hours ago, ebinmaine said:

:wwp:

Soon as I can get there and get them

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wheelwhores
13 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

Take heed to this... Run don't walk don't wait it won't be there.

I get this 100%  I buy a ton of stuff on clist and know the market dynamics when there is a killer deal.  All that said i am going to play it cool on this one.  There are enough issues, 3hr drive just to look at it, condition, etc that i'm not going to race out there and throw a full ask offer at him.  I sent him a $300 offer which will offset all my travel/time costs.  If he bites i guess ill have to figure out the logistics from there as its late fall in MN and we have a ton of leaf collection to do this weekend.  I'm in a rough spot in life with time raising to kids under 3 while both my wife and i work 50-60 hour weeks so time for me at this instance is more valuable the $$$.  I am also not in a huge race to get my first hunt over this, its be a ton of fun looking and learning (here and online) about all the different WH machines out there and which one might be the best for me.  We'll be replacing a snow blower, mower, and cub leaf vac with the tractor, along with a nice honda tiller and blue bird dethatcher at some point so trading space for space should be no issue with the wife, i just want the machine to at least be initially successful / function so i can get the seal of approval from her and hopefully not submarine my chances at bringing more ponies into the stable as we grow :)   i'll keep you all updated!

 

I did have another question, what does a new set of tires (fronts and rears) cost for a 3,4,5 series?  i'm guessing around 200?  want to factor that into cost too as a bunch of the barn find ones seem to have dry rotted tires

 

You guys have been an awesome resource and i really appreciate all the input!   I was also wondering if its ok to post youtude links to videos of the tractor once i start work on whatever i get.  I'm a big visual learner and using videos to explain stuff is really what works for me....just want to play within the RedSquare sandbox.

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WVHillbilly520H

A cheaper alternative to new tires is to add inner tubes as long as the side wall and tread are intact but yes you close to the price depends on retailer and brand.

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Pullstart

YouTube links embedded into your post is encouraged more than uploading pictures direct to the site, things run much faster for the site in general and for the end user too.  

 

I get the whole time vs money thing with the kiddos, I left a good paying job to spend the time with my girls while “they still like me”. I figure they’ll always love me, but there is a time when a daughter doesn’t necessarily like their daddy.  We’ve been homeschooling for 4 years now and still seem to make things work!  On that day that they don’t “like” me, I’ll find another job or expand my business further again.  

 

Keep us updated, it’s always exciting to hear about the adventures of another wrangling!

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wheelwhores

Update.  I may have found (through NextDoor) a very nice condition 520hc with deck blower and blade, along with what looks like some after market tow behind spreader and lawn rake. Going to look at it next weekend.  The guy selling it thinks it has around 1000hrs.  Ask is $600.  From pictures to looks very clean and well maintained.  Any comments or concerns on the commercial version of the 520H?   How big of a deal is the lact gear reduction steering...is that basically like a mechanical power steering via gear reduction?

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WVHillbilly520H
18 hours ago, wheelwhores said:

Update.  I may have found (through NextDoor) a very nice condition 520hc with deck blower and blade, along with what looks like some after market tow behind spreader and lawn rake. Going to look at it next weekend.  The guy selling it thinks it has around 1000hrs.  Ask is $600.  From pictures to looks very clean and well maintained.  Any comments or concerns on the commercial version of the 520H?   How big of a deal is the lact gear reduction steering...is that basically like a mechanical power steering via gear reduction?

The HC or commercial version doesn't have the chrome air cleaner lid or muffler heat shield, I believe less electronic gremlins (as in less safety switches) and the final drive was geared to allow somewhat faster ground speed... As far as the gear reduction steering you probably wouldn't notice it missing if you've never had it as it really is just makes its easier to steer at slow speeds/sitting still or using a FEL.

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wheelwhores
16 hours ago, WVHillbilly520H said:

The HC or commercial version doesn't have the chrome air cleaner lid or muffler heat shield, I believe less electronic gremlins (as in less safety switches) and the final drive was geared to allow somewhat faster ground speed... As far as the gear reduction steering you probably wouldn't notice it missing if you've never had it as it really is just makes its easier to steer at slow speeds/sitting still or using a FEL.

FEL?  

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wheelwhores

Also, a 1,000 hours seems pretty high to me....is that getting into worrisome territory where thing are going to start wearing out?

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ebinmaine
Just now, wheelwhores said:

FEL?  

Front End Loader

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ebinmaine
Just now, wheelwhores said:

Also, a 1,000 hours seems pretty high to me....is that getting into worrisome territory where thing are going to start wearing out?

That depends greatly on owner maintenance.

 

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ohiofarmer
On 10/16/2019 at 10:03 PM, ZXT said:

By the way, I just looked through the craigslist in your area, and i have to say that I'm extremely jealous. I searched wheel horse, and there were actually results! I'm lucky if one pops up every 6 months.. and if it does, its 3+ hours away. You shouldn't have any issues finding one.

 

By the way, if you find an older Horse (Like a Raider or Charger) for the right price, don't be scared away. They use an older mule drive which uses different attachments, but a newer mule drive can be put on them to make them accept C series attachments. 

That older drive unit is what I like the best about my old raider. I have taken down bluegrass and weeds higher than the hood of the tractor. Not all at once but with time to dry out between cutting and maybe a little raking

  The shorter belts don't overheat as easily

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Pullstart
36 minutes ago, ohiofarmer said:

That older drive unit is what I like the best about my old raider. I have taken down bluegrass and weeds higher than the hood of the tractor. Not all at once but with time to dry out between cutting and maybe a little raking

  The shorter belts don't overheat as easily

 

Not that I have any proof, but how would a shorter belt not overheat as easily?  To me, a longer belt would have more air time to cool off?  I have no proof... just my thought process which has hiccups quite often too.

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ebinmaine
17 minutes ago, pullstart said:

 

Not that I have any proof, but how would a shorter belt not overheat as easily?  To me, a longer belt would have more air time to cool off?  I have no proof... just my thought process which has hiccups quite often too.

Shorter belt doesn't wiggle about or flex as much?

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ZXT
7 hours ago, pullstart said:

 

Not that I have any proof, but how would a shorter belt not overheat as easily?  To me, a longer belt would have more air time to cool off?  I have no proof... just my thought process which has hiccups quite often too.

I've never seen a V belt that wasn't slipping "overheat". Didn't know such a thing happened. 

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Shirk
On 11/13/2019 at 9:29 PM, wheelwhores said:

Update.  I may have found (through NextDoor) a very nice condition 520hc with deck blower and blade, along with what looks like some after market tow behind spreader and lawn rake. Going to look at it next weekend.  The guy selling it thinks it has around 1000hrs.  Ask is $600.  From pictures to looks very clean and well maintained.  Any comments or concerns on the commercial version of the 520H?   How big of a deal is the lact gear reduction steering...is that basically like a mechanical power steering via gear reduction?

Any updates to the 520HC? I have a HC and I love it. They seem to not get as much devotion as the standard 520h. I got mine outside of Pittsburgh with a deck and plow for $500. If it would have been a 520h it would have been at least twice that amount. I dont need all the chrome wheel caps because I put wheel weights on it anyway. As far as 1000 hrs, just look at it closely. Usually if something is taken care of on the outside of the tractor it's a good assumption it was taken care of internally. And if it looks abused from the outside it is a good assumption it wasn't cared for internally. The good thing is as long as you dont have a massive hole in the engine anything can be fixed if you have the time money and knowledge. 

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PeacemakerJack

Someday...I plan to find the “right” HC and I’m gonna ****** it up.  I want one for general property use including grass and leaf collection.  I want mine with a 48” SD, gator blades, and I’ll hook up my bagger.  I love the ground speed of JackRabbit (418-C). And I look forward to the ”beastieness” of the Onan with the increased ground speed.  

 

 

 

Someday:techie-hourglass:

 

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Shirk

I use mine for general property management. I dont cut the grass with it. I use my 312A for that. My HC is used for plowing or blowing snow, I've used the plow to grade dirt. I have a wood chipper attachment and a front mount sickle mower that I use occasionally as well and the HC is right at home with all those chores. Best thing I did to it was put gear reduction steering on it. 

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DBlackston
28 minutes ago, Shirk said:

I use mine for general property management. I dont cut the grass with it. I use my 312A for that. My HC is used for plowing or blowing snow, I've used the plow to grade dirt. I have a wood chipper attachment and a front mount sickle mower that I use occasionally as well and the HC is right at home with all those chores. Best thing I did to it was put gear reduction steering on it. 

 

 

Front mount sickle on a 312? Interested to see that. 

 

And a wood chipper?

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Shirk

The chipper is a mckissick mighty mac that doesn't do bad but you have to be careful because it's not made from the days of "safety first". The sickle mower is a homemade conversion. It was off a old Montgomery ward walk behind that I fabricated a mount to attach using my snowblower mount. Search front mount sickle mower and there is a thread from back in the summer with picks of it. But I dont use them on my 312 they are on my 520HC

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