C-100 with new 3 month old battery.

[Kelsey 54]

My C-100 has a new battery in it. Last week, I went to use it and I turned the

key and nothing not even a click. I visually checked everything i.e. battery connectors.

I jumped stared it and it took right off. The WH ran for about 45 minutes with no problems.

I shut the tractor off and hit the key again and nothing not even a click. Today, the same thing.

I jump started the WH and it ran again for about 45 minutes and shut it down. As it was winding

down I turned the key on and it started right up. Again, I shut it off with the key and I turned the key

back on and the WH's engine took right off. I shut it off and let it wind off next to nothing and

turned the key back on and it took right off again. I shut the WH off completely and waited a few minutes

and turned the key and absolutely nothing. The voltage regulator's needle stays in the middle. I cleaned the

key switch with cleaner and checked its connectors. Everything looked good.

Anyone have and idea?  Thank you in advance.

Kelsey

[Ed Kennell 35,769]

It sounds like your new battery is dead.      Put it on the charger overnight.

[953 nut 51,678]

[Kelsey 54]

On ‎10‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 6:32 PM, Ed Kennell said:

It sounds like your new battery is dead.      Put it on the charger overnight.

Yep the battery was low/dead. It was put on the charger for the

7 hours. Re-cleaned the posts and connectors and applied some

dielectric grease. The  C-100 started right up. Also, I restarted it 5 days

later and it took right off. I don't know what could have drained the battery.

I have the light switch disconnected. Oh well.

 

Thanks for the help!

[Pullstart 59,716]

Do you happen to have a volt meter?  A fully charged battery should be right around 12.3 volts or so.  When running, the tractor should be giving out 14 volts +/-.  

[Tractorhead 8,610]

If you have a multimeter, there was mostly a simple Ammeter built in, they mostly last 10- 20A of Current.

(Ammeter has a different pin to hook up for higher Ampere reading)

 

Use a proper charged Battery.

Disconnect the positive pole on your Battery, set the Ammeter in line between the batt clamp and batt terminal and see

if there was a Powerdrop.

 

switch the Ammeter before you clamp it in to Amperes (10A), and look if the value is close to zero without any connection.

If there is a light drift, get this as Zero value.

 

the Value shall be 0 if Ammeter was in line connected and ignition is off.

if there is a Powerdrop, disconnect the Regulator for control.

 

 

There was several reasons why battery‘s fail, 

once shaking, once lifetime, and bad luck.

a battery looses a bit of Power if not used, that‘s normal and also an issue,

while they shall be recharged from time to time.

 

As a normal lifespan of a Starter battery was handled at 4 Years,

on motorbikes and smallengines sometimes 3Years.

If your Tractorbattery lasts longer than 4Years, it is well conditioned.

[tom2p 2,393]

On 10/16/2019 at 11:29 AM, Tractorhead said:

If you have a multimeter, there was mostly a simple Ammeter built in, they mostly last 10- 20A of Current.

(Ammeter has a different pin to hook up for higher Ampere reading)

 

Use a proper charged Battery.

Disconnect the positive pole on your Battery, set the Ammeter in line between the batt clamp and batt terminal and see

if there was a Powerdrop.

 

switch the Ammeter before you clamp it in to Amperes (10A), and look if the value is close to zero without any connection.

If there is a light drift, get this as Zero value.

 

the Value shall be 0 if Ammeter was in line connected and ignition is off.

if there is a Powerdrop, disconnect the Regulator for control.

 

 

There was several reasons why battery‘s fail, 

once shaking, once lifetime, and bad luck.

a battery looses a bit of Power if not used, that‘s normal and also an issue,

while they shall be recharged from time to time.

 

As a normal lifespan of a Starter battery was handled at 4 Years,

on motorbikes and smallengines sometimes 3Years.

If your Tractorbattery lasts longer than 4Years, it is well conditioned.

We got great life from Sears Diehard batteries ... well over 4 years .... possibly double (7-8 years ... more ?)  ... and the tractors would sit most of the winter.

 

Also put a Diehard in every car / truck - with similar results.

 

So when Sears closed - I was not a happy camper.

 

Planned to get an Interstate battery - but then someone turned me on to Duracell (which might be rebranded Deka?).  Good cold crank amps - so far so good.  Time will tell how good.

Edited October 18, 2019 by tom2p

[Tractorhead 8,610]

@tom2p

 

It depends on, for what you using a battery and how you take care.

 

A battery in a camper has to provide less current over long term use and will be recharged with less current.

A battery in a Tractor ( or truck or Car) has to provide short therm huge current for starting and shall be immediately recharged.

 

This are the basic differents to choose a battery.

 

What i would say, Batteries in a Camper had a completely different use than a Starterbatterie.

in Campers we‘re used primary Gel batteries with best experiences.

 

some of our Customer ordered AGM Types, but they are no good Tractions batteries.

in the direct Compare i can say, a Gel battery in the Camper lasts at least 7-8 years (depending on use)

where the most AGM died after 3-4years under similar use.

 

my experiences are based on Exide batteries, we compared over the years.

 

 

Btw:

for the Camper’s actual the LiFePoy4 customer expanding much.

The only restrict was charging in Winter if batterytemp is below 5*C.

even the most don‘t shall  reached +50 deg. what can be happen in several circumstands.

some manufacturer told us „ aaaah, there is no problem for us, we can handle“,

 

but our own compares and tests show‘s different results.

But therfore charging systems are available with special LiFePo charging capability.

 

 

Except of that temp issue, the Li batteries has several Advantages.

 - much quicker charge current above 5 degC (means shorter charging times) 

 - better long term Use, voltage drop is much less in equal to Gel batteries.

 - the bigges advantage was the Weight, what is 1/2 a Gel type, sometimes more at same usable Rating.

 

 

At LiFePo i compared follow Brands:

 

Victron

Transwatt

Greenline

and 

Büttner 

 

What was important to know, a Lifepo battery must have an Battery Management,

if you don‘t like a disaster with your battery.

In my humble Opinion, the best is a intergated Batter Management,

less cabeling and simpler ability to exchange with actual used systems.

 

 

 

[tom2p 2,393]

I use lead acid batteries in the tractors and cars 

 

tempted to try AGM in a car - but have not done so 

 

used gel in a motorcycle (I think)

 

I'm not familiar with LiFePo batteries 

 

actually not too knowledgeable about the various types of batteries - but my one kid is (primarily due to RC, etc)

 

he has LiPo batteries - but I don't recall LiFePo ... hmmm

 

 

Edited October 19, 2019 by tom2p

[ZXT 2,394]

23 hours ago, tom2p said:

I use lead acid batteries in the tractors and cars 

 

tempted to try AGM in a car - but have not done so 

 

used gel in a motorcycle (I think)

 

I'm not familiar with LiFePo batteries 

 

actually not too knowledgeable about the various types of batteries - but my one kid is (primarily due to RC, etc)

 

he has LiPo batteries - but I don't recall LiFePo ... hmmm

 

 

 

IMG_3108.MOV 10.86 MB · 1 download

I've not had excellent luck with AGM batteries in cars. Had an Energizer AGM that died at roughly 3 years old, an Optima that lasted maybe a year longer, and the day before yesterday, the 3 year old Duralast Platinum AGM battery died in my Porsche. It got replaced with a lead-acid.

 

We've had far better luck around here with lead-acid batteries. We have an EverStart that was made in March of 2010 on our 83 Chevy pickup, just pulled a 2009 Super Start off of my step mothers 68 Camaro because she was scared of it dying on her, had a Duralast from 2008 die a few months ago that was on one of our Datsun 280zx's, had one just die on my Dad's truck that was a Duralast from 2011, and a EverStart from 2007 that I believe is on its last legs. There are probably 10 other batteries on the place that were made between 2013-2015, but I don't consider them that old yet. We had a Duralast from 1994 that was on my dad's Chevelle that lasted until 2012.. That's 18 years. It sat on a concrete floor for 6 years while my dad took his sweet time changing the transmission. Keep in mind that the only battery tender on the place is attached to a motorcycle battery.. and these cars sometimes sit for months at a time without being started. 

[Tractorhead 8,610]

@ZXT yup, same experiences on my Side.

 

In my Car i use actual a Calciumcloride, what last now the 6 th year without weakness.

Before i just used Lead Acid, but here they lost Quality - less Lead.

 

@tom2p

funny Mower you have, funny idea 👍

 

about Lithium Technologie:

i also Do some RC - Fly Planes ( beaver, corsair, Air Commander)

and a bunch of about 15 Copters half half some are Race dronez and few flying cameras.

 

but the LiFePo battery‘s are completely different to LiPo‘s you know at RC Modelling.

Lipos can be very dangerous under different circumstands, and must allway’s hadled with Care,

especially prohibited was impact or overdischarge or overcharge.

they burn immediately and can nearly not be stopped while burning.

i lost few Dronez and planes while had a crash or to ambitionated about Regulator and engine combinations.

Once on a deep highspeed flight, i see my Plane first smokes, than like a fireball coming to ground.

a good insurance is mandantory here whilst flying Modelaircrafts, and there was a reason for.

 

 

The LiFePo batteries are different, you can throw a nail in and they don‘t burn.

The safety is much higher than to simple LiPos.

They be normally offered as round cell’s to build in Packs.

weight per Ah ratio is a bit less than Lipo‘s but not that much,

but the Safety aspect is dramatical differently, they are 100% safer than simple Lipos.

cost was also a bit different, and both needs a Balancer and a restricted Charger and Discharge.

If a Lipo ignits itself, never use Water to extinguish, that is the worsest idea ever.

use Sand or dirt but never water.

 

 

Better batteries have all built in, but they expensive.

Another issue, they shall be no recharged below 5 deg.C

Some thell they can, but below 0 is finally stop without external prewarming.

the Y endowment brought the capability to be charged below 5 deg.C