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About ZXT

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  • Birthday 04/22/1997

Wheel Horse Information

  • tractors
  • favoritemodel

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  • Location
    Weatherford, TX
  • Occupation
  • Interests
    Women, Old cars, hit-or-miss engines, lawn tractors, etc.

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  1. ZXT


    I assume "Tecky" i short for Tecumseh? I didn't know that 857's came with them. At any rate, the Kohler is a better engine IMO. Edit: Nevermind, i see now that it's a 657.. Taking the load off of that switch is probably the best thing you could do. It might be rated for the load, but I still don't like to let a switch carry all of it.
  2. ZXT

    lawn ranger

    Very neat! Is that a Tecumseh?
  3. ZXT

    Wheel Horse anonymous

    Yes, there is a program! It's called moving to Texas. Move here and your supply will dry up completely. That's the reason I only have 1! Can't see why anyone would ever want to kick the habit, though! Any pics?
  4. ZXT

    New around here!

    Wouldn't surprise me, considering it is has a C160 trans. It also doesn't appear to have ever had the old style wheelhorse coil and flywheel pickup either, which i assume my tractor would've had.
  5. Thanks for the pictures, guys! I drilled a hole in the shifter mechanism so that I could use the side hole in the slide cam, and now everything lines up and works good, with the exception of one thing. When I took it on its maiden voyage, I forgot and left the one of the retainers and screw for the slide cam on the tractor and they vibrated off. I can make on easily enough, but it's still aggravating. I also changed the pump input shaft seal and it no longer leaks like a sieve. Its coming together slowly but surely!
  6. Richie, I thought it seemed odd the way I was describing it. Thanks for clearing it up! Thanks, Steve! I found the follow feature and I've been using it. I didn't know about the manage feature, but I do now! Yep, I do have a name. It's Jonah.
  7. Thanks for that photo! I came across it once when I first started working on it but couldn't find it in a manual again. I need to improve my searching skills. Does the pivot lever button simply adjust out against the plastic slide piece for friction? In order to get everything properly placed, I suppose I'll need to drill a new hole for the ball stud to the left of the current one. Thanks! EDIT: Thanks for the link to the manual! I didn't realize the thread had spilled over onto a new page.
  8. The shifter on this thing is confusing me. Can anyone help me out? I've already ordered a new slide cam and i'm waiting on that, but I was looking and the ball stud hits the pivot lever when pushed to the "forward" position. Is the pivot ball supposed to go in the hole that's in the middle of the "slide" part of the cam, or in the one off to the side? Knowing that this unit is from a C-160 makes me wonder if there were differences in the shifter placement. Thanks!
  9. Made huge progress today! I forgot to mention that yesterday I found that they flywheel was loose. That was my knocking sound. Engine is fine. I think it may have partially sheared the flywheel key, as it cranks hard occasionally and it pings some. I got some 1/4 inch stock earlier and cut it to length for the crank pulley and clutch. The hole that the tensioner shaft runs through is wallered out some and it throws the belt, but i have it rigged temporarily where it doesn't. I put my new fuel pump on it so that I could run it longer than I had been by just filling up the fuel bowl. I started it, and pushed the hydro lever to the forward position with a screwdriver since the plastic slide plate (not sure of the proper term) is broken. Nothing happened. Pushed it to reverse. Same result. I forcefully slammed it back into forward and it took off. It was binding on the remnants of the plastic slide plate and wouldn't fully go into forward gear. Reverse works now too. The tractor seemed extremely sluggish and was actually worse when it was revved up. I looked down to see that the axle was spinning in the hub on the side that the wheel was mostly slid off of when I got it. I didn't have a woodruff key for that, so I temporarily put a piece of 1/4 stock in it so that I could move it around. The hydro unit makes some noise but seems to be strong. I hooked it to my little 85 Toyota pickup and it pulled it with ease. I thought about hooking it to my V10 Dodge truck but I didn't want to push my luck. I'll have to do some closer looking in the daylight but It has a decent leak, either from the hydro shaft seal or from the oil filter. There was a little gouge in the oil filter sealing surface, probably from someone trying to chisel the filter off in the past, but it didn't look to be across the whole surface. Now I need to buy a throttle and choke cable and the slide part for the forward/reverse lever and I'll be in business! And most importantly, pictures!
  10. Thanks for the replies! My research also returned the verdict that it's 1/4 inch instead of 3/16. I'll try to get some today and see what happens! Thanks!
  11. Sorry for my slow response times! Midterms this week have had me up to my neck in studying. Between that and work, I haven't had time to do much of anything. The first filter change I did, I used a Wix 51410. The second time, I used a Napa 1410, as it is $5 as opposed to $15. I used Castrol 10w-30 the first time and Walmart brand 10w-30 the second time. Didn't see any reason to waste good stuff again. Being that it has a C-160 trans, the tow valve is on the front of the transmission facing the front of the tractor with a slotted head. I have had it loose and it is tight. The electric clutch is currently off of the engine so that won't be a problem. I'll do some more research and see if I can come up with some 3x16's square stock. Thanks for the help!
  12. Thanks guys. I'll have to see if I can find anything stating the dimensions and weight of the unit before I can get a quote on shipping. I thought Fastenal was a bolt company; I didn't have any idea that they shipped items until you suggested it. You learn something new every day! I know the pump is like 1' x 8"x 8", but I'm not sure how big it is with the brake assembly on it. I need to find a woodruff key for the crank pulley. I was running it earlier today after changing the oil and the tractor kind of "lurched" forward a bit and then I saw the pulley spinning on the shaft. It obviously hasn't had a key in it for a while and the set screws weren't even tightened down. It was simply being held in place by rust. I'm not sure if the pump started working and caused it to lurch forward or if it was a coincidence. Steve, I haven't elevated the front of the tractor any when changing the oil, but it is parked on a slight uphill slope. If I have to change it again, i'll jack it up. Meadowfield, thanks for the info! I'll look at your thread. Thanks!
  13. Richie, thanks for your offer! I might have to take you up on it. I'll talk to Fastenal and see what it might cost to ship something like that. The pump by itself isn't extremely heavy, is it? I've never held one in my hand so I haven't a clue. I certainly don't expect it for free. Steve, I know it was oil because it was the color of oil and wasn't the consistency of ATF. The "tiny bit of oil" I got out of it was drained from the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny. I'm not sure how else I would have drained anything from it. I put 10w-30 back in it and a Wix filter that did not have a bypass in it. I apologize if it appeared that I was rushing and cutting corners. After finding that it wouldn't move, I drained the "new" oil out of it. It was disgusting looking, and I believe it has had water in it. I only got about 2 quarts out of it through the drain plug, though I had poured just a hair under 4 in it. I pulled the new oil filter off of it, pulled the spark plug out of the engine and cranked it over with the starter. It pumped 2 more quarts out into the drain pan. Not sure if that was good on the unit, but I figured it was dead. The pump does appear to be pumping since it pumped oil out, but i know that doesn't mean it'll build pressure. The oil filter had some grainy particulate in it, which may have stopped it up. I bought another oil filter, and I plan on flushing it with some clean oil and trying again. It doesn't appear to leak where the case splits, but the axle seals were wet. I had planned on changing them but wanted to know if the unit worked first. It had an old Wix filter on it, and the trans is not original, so I know it's had some maintenance within the last 50 years. Tow valve is definitely closed. Thanks for your help, Jonah
  14. I'm going to start looking for a C series parts tractor... That way maybe I can use the hydro unit and the deck parts and make it a viable tractor again. In addition to the K321 that I mentioned in the previous post, I believe my neighbor has one that came out of a Deere. Not sure what's wrong with it, or if its even a 14 horse. We'll see.
  15. The fuel pump is bad, the engine knocks, it likes to throw the drive belt off and it doesn't move. The only thing that seems to work is the deck lift ram. It moves when you press the lever. On a happier note, the gas tank is fixed and installed, and it's temporarily wired up good enough to start it with the key. USPS delivered my fuel shut off valves today. I've never had anything delivered on a Sunday before, but I'm not going to complain! I'm a little discouraged at this point. I have access to another K321, but I'm not sure if it's any good. Even if it is, the hydro unit is apparently bad, and I don't want to spend $400 for a unit to fix a $100 tractor.