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Stephen Santospago

B-80 won't start

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JimmyJam

Steve, However I am not knowledgeable where you can purchase parts that you need.

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Stephen Santospago
46 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

Do an orderly check of the system as ED suggested. As you go along you will find out what works and what is Questionable, we will then diagnose the things that are in question. Some times it can be as simple as a bed cable or connection. We hate to see someone buy parts the didn't actually need.

Most parts you could need can be found at a good auto parts store or Tractor Supply.

@Stephen SantospagoSantospago

Thank you once again for your help. It's good to know there easy to get.

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JimmyJam

I think that parts are readily available.

Do diagnosis to determine what you will need.

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JimmyJam

I think other members may have additional information about where you can get good parts. Good luck!

 

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JimmyJam

Early B-80’s didn’t have a seat switch. Very possible that you are depressing the clutch and the switch isn’t making contact. Clean ball contact and make sure that that switch or PTO switch doesn’t have a broken wire.

Keep us posted Steve.

Edited by JimmyJam
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JimmyJam

Happy Birthday Steve!

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peter lena

you said it ran last month? i agree with others above on trying things for response, having had similar issues, with key on i would move any electrical wire contact point, or test light it. living out side your horse could easily have a contact corrosive issue . i went over entire wire systems and replaced terminals along with dielectric grease to insure conductivity and stop corrosion. i think you will find it on a corroded terminal, like the starter switch plug on ,  good luck , pete

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Tractorhead

Clean up all Terminals Is allway‘s a good way to start, to find and solve a Problem.

 

A relatively simple method to find the Issue is mostly search Backwards.

for a quick diagnosis i would suggest follow:

 

1. If PTO is disengaged and Clutch is depressed and Seatswitch is working the Solenoid must at least Click by Keystart.

if not, use a simlple testlight with a bulb inside or better a Meter.

(Testing lights with LED can maybe show a usable Signal, but they working mostly beginning at lower Voltages,

what can be shown a working condition, even it wasn‘t or the Terminal was corroded)

A older light (rearlight or similar) with a bulb at about 5-10Watts attached with a pair of cables is a much better Indicator instead.

 

To see how bright it must be, try it firstly on Battery terminals.

 

On the Solenoid you have two bigger Terminals and two smaller.

Put the Wires to the small terminals and try to start as you did normally.

if the bulb light and you didn‘t hear a Click noise, the Solenoid is passed.

 

if the Bulb stay‘s dark, whilst try to Start, do diagnosis as allready suggested from the other Fella‘s.

 

check each switch if they don‘t be corroded.

disconnect each switch separately, and check it by a meter in ohm‘s setting.

if a Switch is activated you shall read close to 0 ohms, if the switch is released, it must show open line.

look in the manual of your meter if you are not familar with.

if the switch is working, reconnect it and try the next switch.

if you found a defect switch, exchange it.

to build a short over a safety switch is no solution to work with.

 

while reconnecting, take a closer look also for good conducting and strong seat of all the the connectors.

if any connectors show‘s a light „green“ ambiente at the terminals,

clean them mechanically and protect them with a bit Battery Grease or Vaseline( what is the same stuff).

 

After all switches are „tested“ the last option is the Keyswitch.

Pick the suggested Lamp and put it on Terminal „S“ on the Keyswitch what mostly is signed along the Terminal.

 

Connect one cable from the lamp to S and the other to Ground and try to Start.

if the lamp stay‘s dark, the Keyswitch was the issue, also verify the connectors,

if they be clean and have a good contact.

 

When your Keyswitch have a all in one connector, remove it, 

search for terminal B and terminal s and meter it in ohms setting.

while keyswitch is activated it must be 0 ohms between.

if not, the Keyswitch was the issue.

 

after that diagnosis, you shall found your issue.

 

 

 

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