Advice on coil mounting on a now weak air shroud having previously broken loose

[arrkerr 54]

I've got an issue with my c-145 where the coil mounting had broken loose the relatively weak and thin area on the air shroud where it is mounted.  I was able to just tack it on with my welder, but it is such thin metal and some of it is just missing that I'm not thrilled with the result and it still really shakes and feels like it'll break off again at some point.  Just looking for some advice on if I should 1) source a new air shroud, which seems hard to find, and the serial number tag would be hard to move or end up not matching, 2) weld in some reinforcement behind it, although I'm honestly not great at welding material this thin its just so easy for me to blow through and you don't get second chances, or 3) move the coil to another spot - there appear to be some unused mounting space with holes already directly below, requiring me to extend the spark plug wire.

 

Pictures attached of the current mount and the possible area below.  I always try to lean towards authenticity, but while an excellent tractor it isn't intended to be show quality.

 

This is how it is now, you can see the missing bits and where I'd tacked the broken part back on.

 

 

This is directly below, not sure what these mounts were for but they're unused.

[JoeM 8,347]

As long as the rest of the cover is not rusted out and is in good condition, I think I would repair this one. Maybe source a person that can weld or braze the area. Could always go to the old stand by, JB Weld.

Those holes are used on some models for choke and or throttle connections / linkage. It would be fine to use them so as the coil wiring reaches.

[ebinmaine 72,706]

2 hours ago, OILUJ52 said:

As long as the rest of the cover is not rusted out and is in good condition, I think I would repair this one. Maybe source a person that can weld or braze the area

That is my thought as well.

 

Maybe pick up some 1/16 rod and practice on something else and fix it yourself or bring to a friend or shop with a MIG/TIG.

 

You could certainly get a replacement shroud but I'd be more prone to repair that one if it's otherwise solid.

 

Replacement labels with accurate numbers can be had from @Vinylguy Terry so no sweat there.

 

 

[Ed Kennell 42,016]

There should be room to weld in a backer plate on the inside of the cracked area of your shroud.  Then weld in the missing area and grind smooth.

When welding on these thin areas, I have found it helps to clamp a piece of brass to the back side to act as a heat sink to prevent blow thru.  When welding around existing tapped holes, I also screw in brass bolts to protect the tapped threads.

If you are not comfortable doing this, any welder could make the repair making the area stronger than new.

[peter lena 9,279]

often seeing  the need for a secure mounting point  makes this a  go to for me ,https://www.metalsdepot.com/aluminum-products/aluminum-perforated-sheet?gclid=Cj0KCQjwuNbsBRC-ARIsAAzITuep7gc9wrXef2zRPKvPDUQldhCUqpY8oEFZJRWk2FpQ_WWTlQoUjyIaAjxmEALw_wcB  , you can get this in just about any metal you want . i often use the existing bolt to add this on for an additional mounting . your local hardware store probably has some in stock. find it great to add a mounting point for for additional spring pull on  throttle and choke cables , making them work with no effort. pete 

[Pullstart 66,802]

If you decide to move the bracket down, I’d suggest using that bolt on the inside that attaches the shroud to the stator backing plate.  For the outside bolt, make sure you roll the engine over by hand to check clearance with the flywheel cooling fins.   A 1/2” long 1/4-20 bolt should do.

 

As for welding, a brass or aluminum chunk clamped to the back will definitely help as Ed mentioned.  You will be able to weld over the weak area and the aluminum or brass will twist right off the back side.  

 

 

[daveoman1966 3,841]

I can send you a replacement shroud....  pm sent    here is one pic....pm has others.

 

Edited October 3, 2019 by daveoman1966

[Burnerman 759]

Mine cracked in the same spot many years ago and the coil would shake all over. I need to weld mine also but ever since I put the solid mounts in the coil doesn’t shake at all. 

 A lot of great ideas here. I will have my son weld it back together. He’s gotten very good with the mig. 

[Ed Kennell 42,016]

12 minutes ago, Burnerman said:

 I put the solid mounts in the coil doesn’t shake at all. 

 

More evidence the shaker plate mounted engines were a costly design that did not reduce vibration.

[richmondred01 2,307]

Extend the points wire and move it to the starter side.

There should be pre-tapped holes to fit your bracket. 

[JoeM 8,347]

On ‎10‎/‎3‎/‎2019 at 4:32 PM, Ed Kennell said:

More evidence the shaker plate mounted engines were a costly design that did not reduce vibration.

 

It is hard to believe the WH engineers could not see this coming. Aside from better detection devises, vibration analysis and design laws were the same then and now. I know I had some pretty big electric motors and they could not tolerate not even a little bit of soft foot.

[arrkerr 54]

On 10/4/2019 at 9:19 AM, richmondred01 said:

Extend the points wire and move it to the starter side.

There should be pre-tapped holes to fit your bracket. 

Thanks, not sure why I didn't even look at this side of the shroud.

[arrkerr 54]

43 minutes ago, OILUJ52 said:

 

It is hard to believe the WH engineers could not see this coming. Aside from better detection devises, vibration analysis and design laws were the same then and now. I know I had some pretty big electric motors and they could not tolerate not even a little bit of soft foot.

 

I wonder - was it a wheel horse thing, or a kohler thing?  I've not seen many green tractors, but it looks like JD may have use both the upper AND lower mounts on the air shroud and instead of just having a band hold the coil on there was a more significant bracket.  Probably depends a lot on the year.

 

I wonder if this isn't as much of an issue on tractors that don't have the rubber "isolation mounts".  I just recently replaced mine as they were shot, causing significantly more vibration which I could attribute this to.  I'd say why not just mount it to the frame, but I suppose they wanted a self-contained engine unit (and shorter ignition wire), and its a non-issue on the earlier and later models where the engine was directly bolted to the frame.

 

Talk about design issues, my favorite pet peeve on the black hoods is the rear fender.  No one at WH must have ever put gas in one or they'd never have let it leave the design shop.  Was always jealous of the extension tube the green tractors had.  When the plastic finally broke and I put a metal fender from a 3-series on I kicked myself for having not done that immediately.  Best "upgrade" ever.

[pfrederi 18,682]

Make a plate and mount it like they did on k181s

 

 

[arrkerr 54]

On 10/4/2019 at 9:19 AM, richmondred01 said:

Extend the points wire and move it to the starter side.

There should be pre-tapped holes to fit your bracket. 

 

This seemed like the quickest option to get me rolling again as I look to still repair or replace the shroud.  My spark plug wire isn't long enough, and replacements are around $30 at the local auto parts store - who generally don't have generic wires just pre-packed auto-specific ones.  Trying to find one on amazon but still not having luck - where did you find this one?  Any pointers in search terms that'll yield a single wire instead of a 4/6 pack?

[richmondred01 2,307]

Let me go look for one.

Ill message you and send it to you.