ZXT 2,401 #26 Posted October 28, 2019 2 hours ago, Treepep said: Silly question... I found the valve that I can turn to put the transmission in neutral so I can push this heavy tractor around. Is there a neutral valve for the lift cylinder? The pin holding the piston is only about halfway through and just about worn away. Obviously its not running right now so I cant operate the life with the lever and try and monkey in a new pin that way. Any thoughts? Thanks There is not a "neutral" for the lift cylinder; it needs pressure to operate. Might have to get creative or wait until the tractor is up and going again. Any luck pulling the engine? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 60,377 #27 Posted October 28, 2019 5 hours ago, Treepep said: I cant operate the life with the lever and try and monkey in a new pin that way. Any thoughts? If you lift the 3 point hitch with a jack you can move the lift lever to release any pressure. Not likely there will be any internal pressure as the unit has not been run for a while. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #28 Posted October 30, 2019 Thanks! I have a few two wheel tractors that need attention for fall planting and a neighbors green tractor needs belts (blech) then I will tackle the motor. Thank folks. I appreciate you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #29 Posted December 7, 2019 Good news! I got all of my other projects buttoned down and went back to the horse. I removed the front cover and the Bendix was stuck on the flywheel. A few hard cranks on the flywheel nut and the Bendix returned to starting position and the motor turned free with strong compression. I have removed the starter motor and cleaned it. It either free wheels and doesn't engage or engages and stays stuck. Searching for a new one now or a rebuild kit. Thank you for all of you input. The dreadful noise I heard was just the starter thank goodness. Happy horsing! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
19richie66 17,655 #30 Posted December 8, 2019 That’s great news. A new starter and you should be back in business. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #31 Posted December 12, 2019 New starter arrived and we a up and running. Tooled around the yard a bit and it began screaming from the other side. P.T.O bearing is roasted. I soaked it overnight with Pb blaster and it came right off with a puller That never happens. I have cruised here and assumed correctly like a lot of my older restorations that it is no longer available unless someone has it hidden in their barn. Has anyone rebuilt these? all great but the bearing. Thanks folks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Aldon 4,828 #32 Posted December 12, 2019 Search @pfrederi posts. He did a thread on rebuilding the PTO. Bearing wise. It should help you out as long as the electro magnet is still functioning. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #33 Posted December 12, 2019 (edited) Hope you didn't damage it pulling it. You are not to use a normal puller PB Blaster is not good for sealed bearings if one of them was still good. How to breakdown down an Electric PTO There are two bearings Once you figure out which (or both) are bad I can help you find replacements. Edited December 12, 2019 by pfrederi Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #34 Posted December 12, 2019 It's the front bearing. Roached. The electromagnet I rewired and functional. Just the one front bearing. It slid right off. I only lubed inside. Spends its life garaged most certainly helped just driving around like a kid. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #35 Posted December 12, 2019 The newer PTOs use a smaller Field coil bearing.. I have the number for that and the second inner Bearing (in the Pulley housing) Don't have a traceable number for your field coil bearing. (are the internal threads 7/8 NC??) if so it is a WEB 166-0161 but I haven't run down a modern number. Take it out and measure or take it to a bearing house. Did you pull the whole PTO off or just the field coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #36 Posted December 13, 2019 pfrederi, I did remove the entire P.T.O. It came off that way. I will probably take it to a machine shop and see about replacing both bearings. Thanks for the information. The bolt is 7/16th x 20 if that helps? Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #37 Posted December 13, 2019 1 hour ago, Treepep said: pfrederi, I did remove the entire P.T.O. It came off that way. I will probably take it to a machine shop and see about replacing both bearings. Thanks for the information. The bolt is 7/16th x 20 if that helps? Thank you The 7/16 is the bolt that goes into the end of the crankshaft. Inside the PTO you will see much larger thread. Maybe 7/8NC. They are what you are supposed to use to remove the PTO from the crankshaft by threading in a 7/8' bolt and it will force the PTO off the crank with out damaging it. It is also what you use to separate the PTO into its 3 parts the coil the hub and the pulley. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #38 Posted December 13, 2019 Ah, I stand under. It's a 1"nc. Got it taken apart. I dont think I will fuss with the inner bearing. Seems tight and sealed. They both must have been replaced in the first rebuild. It must have been cleaned and lubed. Bearing came out easily. Eaton clips no joke without the right tools. Didn't bleed but cussed a bit. Just gotta find this field coil bearing Thank you sir. Made my day a lot easier Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #39 Posted December 18, 2019 I found the bearing part number 60062RSJ. I assembled and in the process of trying to get the rear snap ring in several times and not block the slot for the key-way I ruined it. Is there an aftermarket ring that uses regular snap ring pliers? Or any idea where I could source a replacement and appropriate pliers available? Any answers would be greatly appreciated. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #40 Posted December 23, 2019 Rough dimensions. Green store has one the same diameter but less than half the thickness. Pretty sure that is not a great idea. I need a new one and I guess I need to find the external lock pliers as well online? I do not have a micrometer nor am I sure I bent it back enough for good measurements but I need a new one to finish my P.T.O. repair. Thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #42 Posted December 23, 2019 This is an alternative to the eaton ring. it is thinner but if you add a shim should be a snug fit. Some bearings used in older PTOs may require a couple shims. Does your bearing come up flush to the inside of the snap ring groove? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #43 Posted December 23, 2019 Yes the bearing comes up flush to the "bottom" of the snap ring channel. Thank you, I am trying to get that fixed so I can figure out how to get the mower going. Is that setup available somewhere? Many thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #44 Posted December 23, 2019 2 minutes ago, Treepep said: Yes the bearing comes up flush to the "bottom" of the snap ring channel. Thank you, I am trying to get that fixed so I can figure out how to get the mower going. Is that setup available somewhere? Many thanks Do you have snap ring pliers like in picture or can you borrow some I will send you the inverted external snap ring and a shim. That should make for a snug fit. Just PM me your mailing address. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #45 Posted December 23, 2019 I believe I have every other type of snap ring pliers just not the Eaton type. Thank you Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #46 Posted December 23, 2019 9 minutes ago, Treepep said: I believe I have every other type of snap ring pliers just not the Eaton type. Thank you PM your address i will mail them tomorrow. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #47 Posted January 8, 2020 I picked these two today and now I am more confused. The one is basically the same as that I have. The other??? Obviously a tensioner but I cant see how it would have mounted. Any thoughts? Or does anyone have any closer pictures of the original setup/pto deck belt route? Many thanks Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pullstart 67,084 #48 Posted January 8, 2020 1 hour ago, Treepep said: I picked these two today and now I am more confused. The one is basically the same as that I have. The other??? Obviously a tensioner but I cant see how it would have mounted. Any thoughts? Or does anyone have any closer pictures of the original setup/pto deck belt route? Many thanks These are on Rylee’s “Filly” 1076. Click on the link, there’s a picture in there you might be able to use. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
pfrederi 18,718 #49 Posted January 8, 2020 Ok it is 21 degrees 20mph wind blowing the snow around This isn't mower deck season.. I have not mounted it on the GT14 but pictures here should help. The pivot (blue arrow) slides on the stub shaft of the deck, blue circle, 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Treepep 698 #50 Posted January 8, 2020 Thanks again pfrederi. I wondered what that silly little pulley was for. It may work if I find a gt deck. .I don't know if all years interchange? It wont work with this 1976 deck without some fabricating I am not qualified for. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites