Skmastaz 0 #1 Posted September 23, 2019 Hey everyone, I’m new to the lawn mower electrical repair world, but I have experience in other electrical repair (home, pinball and arcade machines, etc) so I feel like I should be able to figure it out with your help. So heres my story: we have had this tractor for a long time, it’s a 252H and has run perfectly for us up until this point. I do regularly maintenance, oil change, air filter, and spark plug. Recently my wife was mowing and the mower deck just stopped working. I figured it was a slipped belt so I climbed under to take a look and everything was fine. We drove it into the garage and I figured I’d mess with it another day. Then next time I went to use it the deck clicked right on when I hit the switch and I was off. Then after about 15 minutes of mowing the deck just stopped working. No matter what I tried, it wouldn’t engage. So I went through the parts diagram I could find and narrowed it down to the PTO switch I checked the seat safety switch with my multimeter and it tested fine. It starts up so I know the neutral safety switch is functioning. The problem is: it appears this switch no longer exists in the world. I called all my local Toro dealers hoping they had some old stock with no luck. I suppose my short story is: is there anyway to test the IPO switch I have to make sure that is the issue? Can I bypass some things and use a different switch? There has to be a work around for this, I was hoping to find a full wiring diagram so I could figure it out myself but I had no luck finding it. Any help would be great, I don’t want to push mow the whole lawn again!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,686 #2 Posted September 23, 2019 It is most likely a safety switch. I believe ther are kill relays in the circuits that might have something to do with it too. Another possibity but unlikely is the electric clutch might be getting hot and opening up. We'll see if we can find a wiring diagram for you. The PTO switch should be a common micro switch? 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Skmastaz 0 #3 Posted September 23, 2019 This is the PTO switch. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darb1964 1,012 #4 Posted September 23, 2019 Any possibility something is binding up after running for a while? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,686 #5 Posted September 23, 2019 (edited) Wow that is a morph guy. Did find a manual with wiring diagram if that helps. I had though it might be similar to my 246H but not even close. Almost looks like a triple pole switch throw switch but not quite. Did you try to read through the contacts with an ohmmeter? BTW Edit here IPL shows it as a 113178 PTO switch. A quick google shows it on fleabay,.... hope your sitting down when you see the price. https://www.ebay.com/itm/TORO-WHEEL-HORSE-PTO-SWITCH-PART-78-3030-OEM-NEW-200-SERIES-TRACTORS/202768978479?epid=1137144425&hash=item2f35f9122f:g:I6QAAOSwD5Bc8RaG I would be damn certain that's the problem before pulling the trigger on that one. A-Z tractors may have a good used one, wouldn't hurt to call him. Parts tree may have them as well. The IPL is here as well if you need it. I am guessing a more common 3 pole single throw switch would work after looking at the wiring diagram. Double check the 15 amp fuse running the clutch as well as it's fuse holder. Check the plug connections to the switch. Electric clutches are known to power hungry and bad connections can melt wiring. It appears you do not have the kill relays but two other tractor functions go thru that switch. Edited September 23, 2019 by WHX24 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tractorhead 8,571 #6 Posted September 23, 2019 Hi and to simple check first, disconnect your Magnetoclutch from Tractor, connect a Multimeter in V and engage the PTO. you have to read about somthing between 11 or 12V. If so, your switch seems to be ok., if not maybe a fuse is blown. if you PTO just engages after longer break while Engine is cold, or release after a longer intensive mowing, try to tip carefully onto PTO after Engine is stopped. but be carefully, maybe it‘s very hot. if the last issue is happen, your PTO seems to be worn or one of the Spindles of your Mowerdeck has eventually an issue with the Bearings. Friction can cause an overheat the Magnets and they loosing their magnetic field. After that happens, you are unable to engage the PTO until its cold enough. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #7 Posted September 23, 2019 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #8 Posted September 23, 2019 There are 6 terminals. Are there also 6 wires? Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
WHX?? 46,686 #9 Posted September 23, 2019 My bad Taz I forgot to post a link to the manual I looked at, thank you Garry. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gwest_ca-(File Mod) 10,478 #10 Posted September 24, 2019 If we can believe the wiring diagram the pto switch controls 3 circuits. 2 circuits are NO (Normally open) 1 circuit is NC (Normally closed) Normally is when the switch is in the OFF position. The status of each circuit in the ON position will change. Should be easy to determine the condition of the switch. Found many pto switches available at a Stens dealer but can not link you to them. Go here https://www.bantasaw.com/ Do a search using pto switch The ones at the top of the list are toggle like this one but no indication of how they function.. Many are push/pull and show how they function. Seems they are universal. Garry Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
biged77 107 #11 Posted September 24, 2019 (edited) When the mower deck stops working check the voltmeter. It should stay at 12+ volts. If it drops you could have a bad ignition switch or wiring issue.. I would also check continuity between the ignition switch case and battery negative terminal. The ignition switch case is grounded through the chassis and oxidation over time can cause high resistance. I have had this issue on two occasions and had to clean the contact surfaces at the switch and other points of contact to restore continuity between the switch case and battery negative. I also added a wire from the ignition switch ground terminal to the chassis at the battery ground lead to provide a more secure ground (spliced to the black wire going from ignition switch ground to seat switch). Ed Edited September 24, 2019 by biged77 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites