bc.gold 3,406 #51 Posted September 27, 2019 The gasoline in the tank is so old that it turned back into tar. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,386 #52 Posted September 27, 2019 WOW 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #53 Posted September 27, 2019 I salvaged a pair of these clutch packs, some pillow block bearings along with two love joy couplings. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #54 Posted September 28, 2019 Just called the scrap guy to take the rest away. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #55 Posted September 28, 2019 (edited) When I removed the cylinder heads this brass thing secured by a head bolt got my curiosity. HIGH TEMPERATURE SAFETY SWITCH SYSTEM As a safety precaution against overheating,engines can be equipped with a high temperature switch mounted to the cylinder head at the No. 2 spark plug. When cylinder head temperature becomes critically high, the safety switch will automatically stop the engine by shorting out the ignition system. A waiting period of about 15 minutes will be required before the switch has cooled off sufficiently to re-start the engine. An overheated engine will score the cylinder walls, burm out connecting rod and crankshaft bearings, also warp pistons and valves. The cause of the overheating condition will have to be remedied before the engine is re-started. Edited September 28, 2019 by bcgold 3 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #56 Posted September 28, 2019 (edited) The older VG4D Wisconsin engines used Babbet connecting rod bearings instead of shells, for those not familiar with Babbitt rods they used brass shims to obtain the proper bearing clearances. My engine is probably old enough for Babbit, I've always wanted to learn the art of applying Babbit and may one day have that opportunity. Edited September 28, 2019 by bcgold 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #57 Posted September 28, 2019 My Wisconsin VG4D uses a Zenith carburetor that is balanced, a bit of research informs me that a balanced carburetor is intended to be fitted to an engine operating in extreme conditions. How it works, as the air filter conditions change with use a normal carburetor draws in a more rich fuel mixture, poor engine performance with increased fuel use. Any carburetor using a float bowel maybe modified. Credits belong to Steve S 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #58 Posted September 28, 2019 How to tell if you have a balanced carburetor. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #59 Posted September 28, 2019 Silver paint ( aluminized ) a buddy of mine would use it when reinstalling a used head gasket, paint and dry before installing he had great success with the procedure. I personally have not tried it but am considering. Has anyone tried it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #60 Posted September 28, 2019 Just figured out how they got reverse gear on the swather, the friction disk is enganged either direction only released when turning or a steering correction is needed to maintain a straight line. The drum with the brake band when the brake is applied a set of planetary gears inside the drum give the swather reverse. I can see a new project coming up, we could use a new water well and this reversing drum will freewheel when the friction band is released. Make a nice pile driver for a cable drilling rig. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,386 #61 Posted September 28, 2019 2 hours ago, bcgold said: Silver paint ( aluminized ) a buddy of mine would use it when reinstalling a used head gasket, paint and dry before installing he had great success with the procedure. I personally have not tried it but am considering. Has anyone tried it. Heard of it but never tried it. I do know both surfaces MUST be flat/straight/true to correct angles. I've never installed a cylinder head on an engine that had just been resurfaced so always used a gasket. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #62 Posted September 28, 2019 5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said: Heard of it but never tried it. I do know both surfaces MUST be flat/straight/true to correct angles. I've never installed a cylinder head on an engine that had just been resurfaced so always used a gasket. He painted the used gasket to assure of a good seal. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #63 Posted September 28, 2019 Here's a very crude percussion drilling rig, this must be a very deep well that he is drilling. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Stormin 9,984 #64 Posted September 28, 2019 55 minutes ago, bcgold said: He painted the used gasket to assure of a good seal. I can vaguely remember my father doing that. I think it was on his Morris 8's engine. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #65 Posted October 20, 2019 (edited) The engine is buttoned up, just need to get a new distributor cap and spark plugs these can wait until spring as my new Lister generator is now priority one. Shop manual says to torque head bolts to 24 ft lbs, run engine then re-torque since the engine is not yet running I heated the cylinder heads with a hand held propane torch then letting them cool down before re-torque the head bolts for the final time. Nothing worse than having piles of sheet metal laying about the shop, this way it all goes back onto the engine. Edited October 20, 2019 by bcgold 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #66 Posted October 20, 2019 1 hour ago, bcgold said: The engine is buttoned up, just need to get a new distributor cap and spark plugs these can wait until spring as my new Lister generator is now priority one. Shop manual says to torque head bolts to 24 ft lbs, run engine then re-torque since the engine is not yet running I heated the cylinder heads with a hand held propane torch then letting them cool down before re-torque the head bolts for the final time. Nothing worse than having piles of sheet metal laying about the shop, this way it all goes back onto the engine. I have never tried the pre heated method before but am pleased to report that each head bolt moved another eighth of a turn after the cool down. The heads were only heated as to be uncomfortable to touch with a bare hand and no where near spit sizzling hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ebinmaine 72,386 #67 Posted October 21, 2019 19 hours ago, bcgold said: moved another eighth of a turn The fact that the bolts moved after you heated and cooled the cylinder head is great and it clearly shows that your method worked to some extent. It is important to remember that the bolts extend down around the outside of the cylinder jacket and on some engines also around the intake and exhaust pockets themselves. What you did definitely has some effect but I don't think I would rely on that method exclusively. Seems possible you could increase the interval a little before your first tightening after running the engine. That's a step I definitely would not skip. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #68 Posted October 22, 2019 On 9/28/2019 at 12:09 PM, bcgold said: Silver paint ( aluminized ) a buddy of mine would use it when reinstalling a used head gasket, paint and dry before installing he had great success with the procedure. I personally have not tried it but am considering. Has anyone tried it. An alternative to using aluminum paint. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #69 Posted February 22, 2020 Bought this hole saw to cut in holes for the boiler tubes to make that steam needed for the essential oil project, I'm impressed. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #70 Posted February 29, 2020 (edited) This past week I've been busy watching multiple Utube videos on mother natures janitors, fungi we know them as mushrooms. Aside from being tasty morsels I've learned that a number of species have medicinal benefits. Mycelium is grown in a petri dish from a tissue sample taken from a mushroom, cuttings taken from the mature mycelium deposited into a bag of sterile grain, after a number of days the whole bag will be inoculated. This inoculated grain, millet, wheat, rye, oats or birdseed is then spread throughout your growing medium, wood pellets, wood shavings, sawdust or straw. Hardwood dowels which have been inoculated are the perfect candidate to place into dead fall or a stump left over from felling a tree for firewood. The mycelium impregnated into the dowels will thread it's way through the wood in search of nutrients, Imagine a stump that feeds you. Growing mushrooms is the perfect partnership to distilling essential oils, the branch shredder can be used to chop straw and the steam boiler used to sterilize the straw. The idea is to kill off errant spores floating around in the air which may produce unwanted results. Instead of building a laboratory for culture work will use a bench top sandblaster cabinet to perform work requiring a sterile environment. Mycelium from tissue culture in various stages. Edited February 29, 2020 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #71 Posted February 29, 2020 Stump be gone, Through the mycelium, a fungus absorbs nutrients from its environment. It does this in a two-stage process. First, the hyphae secrete enzymes onto or into the food source, which break down biological polymers into smaller units such as monomers. These monomers are then absorbed into the mycelium by facilitated diffusion and active transport. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycelium In layman's terms this is how you grow mushrooms, you feed them an old stump. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #72 Posted February 29, 2020 Non GMO wheat from Vern's Ag seed cleaning plant, this is what has leaked from the shaker tables onto the floor, spillage gets swept into an auger installed in the floor to be reclaimed. I was gifted three pails, some chaff with a bit of dust, I'll pass this through my grain cleaner. I'll be doing about a dozen quart canning jars, each jar filled two thirds full. There will be plenty for my own used then some to gift friends. The grain is first soaked in water overnight, jars filled, lid set loosely then pressure cooked for about an hour, once the gran has cooled down it can be inoculated. Close lid tightly, make sure there's a breather hole and this is filled with upholstery batting it looks like cotton. Set your jars in a dark room then in a couple of weeks you'll see that the mycelium has fully grown within the grain kernels. This is used to inoculate your sterilized wood chips, sawdust or straw. I suggest watching a few utube videos growing mushrooms in a bucket. to get a better grasp on growing your own mushrooms. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #73 Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) Cleaning out the shop to turn it into a mushroom barn, the walls a ceiling will get an old fashion whitewash. Whitewash made from Lime has some antibacterial properties, commonly used on chicken coops and barns used to house other types of livestock. Whitewash has been around for well over a century and is a simple means to spruce up your coop or barn while benefiting from its ability to help keep bugs from using the wood surfaces to breed. While many “old timers” remember whitewashing barns, coops, and tree trunks, finding much information on the subject is a bit complicated. It would appear that this is one of those cases where it was such common knowledge 50 years ago that no one bothered to really cover the subject well. https://www.theprairiehomestead.com/2014/07/whitewash-recipe-barn-coop.html Edited March 2, 2020 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Darb1964 1,113 #74 Posted March 2, 2020 The stump needs to be hard wood also? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bc.gold 3,406 #75 Posted March 2, 2020 (edited) 18 minutes ago, Darb1964 said: The stump needs to be hard wood also? Table of Hard and Softwood trees. Acacia Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Florida Maple Hard Maple Hard Hardwood Boxelder Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Black Maple Hard Maple Hard Hardwood Striped Maple Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Red Maple Soft Maple Soft Hardwood Silver Maple Soft Maple Soft Hardwood Sugar Maple Hard Maple Hard Hardwood Mountain Maple Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Rocky Mountain Maple Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Bigtooth Maple Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Buckeye, Horsechestnut Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Ohio Buckeye Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Yellow Buckeye Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Buckeye (Other) Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Ailanthus Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Serviceberry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Pawpaw Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Birch Sp. Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Yellow Birch Yellow Birch Hard Hardwood Sweet Birch Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood River Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Water Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Paper Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Gray Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Chittamwood Noncommercial Hard Hardwood American Hornbeam Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Hickory Sp. Hickory Hard Hardwood Water Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood Bitternut Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood Pignut Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood Pecan Hickory Hard Hardwood Shellbark Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood Shagbark Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood Black Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood Mockernut Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood American Chestnut Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Allegheny Chinkapin Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Ozark Chinkapin Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Chinkapin Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Catalpa Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Southern Catalpa Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Northern Catalpa Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Hackberry Sp. Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Sugarberry Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Hackberry Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Eastern Redbud Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Curlleaf Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood True Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Hairy Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Birchleaf Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Littleleaf Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Flowering Dogwood Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Hawthorn Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Common Persimmon Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood American Beech Beech Hard Hardwood Ash Ash Hard Hardwood White Ash Ash Soft Hardwood Black Ash Ash Hard Hardwood Green Ash Ash Soft Hardwood Pumpkin Ash Ash Soft Hardwood Blue Ash Ash Hard Hardwood Waterlocust Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Honeylocust Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Loblolly-Bay Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Kentucky Coffeetree Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Silverbell Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood American Holly Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Butternut Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Black Walnut Black Walnut Hard Hardwood Sweetgum Sweetgum Soft Hardwood Yellow-Poplar Yellow-Poplar Soft Hardwood Osage-Orange Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Magnolia Sp. Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Cucumbertree Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Southern Magnolia Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Sweetbay Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Bigleaf Magnolia Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Apple Sp Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Mulberry Sp. Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood White Mulberry Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Red Mulberry Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Water Tupelo Tupelo And Black Gum Soft Hardwood Ogeechee Tupelo Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Blackgum Tupelo And Black Gum Soft Hardwood Swamp Tupelo Tupelo And Black Gum Soft Hardwood Eastern Hophornbeam Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Sourwood Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Paulownia, Empress Tree Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Redbay Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Sycamore Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Cottonwood Sp. Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Balsam Poplar Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Eastern Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Bigtooth Aspen Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Swamp Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Plains Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Quaking Aspen Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Black Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Fremont Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Silver Poplar Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Narrowleaf Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood Cherry, Plum Spp. Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Pin Cherry Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Black Cherry Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Chokecherry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Bitter Cherry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Plums, Cherries (Other) Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Canada Plum Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Wild Plum Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Oak Deciduous Noncommercial Hard Hardwood White Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood Arizona White Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Swamp White Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood Scarlet Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Durand Oak Select White Oak Hard Hardwood Northern Pin Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Emory Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Southern Red Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Cherrybark Oak Select Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Gambel Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Bear Oak, Scrub Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Shingle Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Turkey Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Laurel Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Overcup Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood Bur Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood Blackjack Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Swamp Chestnut Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood Chinkapin Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood Water Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Nuttall Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Mexican Blue Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Pin Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Willow Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Chestnut Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood Northern Red Oak Select Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Shumard Oak Select Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Post Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood Delta Post Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood Black Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood Live Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood Bluejack Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Silverleaf Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Oak � Evergreen Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Scrub Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Black Locust Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood New Mexico Locust Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Willow Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Peachleaf Willow Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Black Willow Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Diamond Willow Noncommercial Soft Hardwood Chinese Tallowtree Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Sassafras Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood American Mountain-Ash Noncommercial Hard Hardwood European Mountain-Ash Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Basswood Basswood Soft Hardwood American Basswood Basswood Soft Hardwood White Basswood Basswood Soft Hardwood Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Winged Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood American Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Cedar Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Siberian Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Slippery Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood September Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood Rock Elm Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood Tung-Oil Tree Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Sparkleberry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Chinaberry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Water-Elm Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Smoketree Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Mesquite Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Tesota(Arizona Ironwood) Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Unknown Or Not Listed Noncommercial Hard Hardwood Edited March 2, 2020 by bcgold Share this post Link to post Share on other sites