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bc.gold

Branch shredder

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bc.gold

The gasoline in the tank is so old that it turned back into tar.

 

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ebinmaine

WOW

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bc.gold

I salvaged a pair of these clutch packs, some pillow block bearings along with two love joy couplings.

 

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bc.gold

Just called the scrap guy to take the rest away.

 

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bc.gold

When I removed the cylinder heads this brass thing secured by a head bolt got my curiosity.

 

HIGH TEMPERATURE SAFETY SWITCH SYSTEM
As a safety precaution against overheating,engines can be equipped with a high temperature
switch mounted to the cylinder head at the No. 2 spark plug.

When cylinder head temperature becomes critically high, the safety switch will automatically stop the engine by shorting out the ignition system.

 

A waiting period of about 15 minutes will be required before the switch has cooled off sufficiently to re-start
the engine.

 

An overheated engine will score the cylinder walls, burm out connecting rod and crankshaft bearings, also warp pistons and valves.

 

The cause of the overheating condition will have to be remedied before the engine is re-started.

 

heat-sensor.jpg

Edited by bcgold
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bc.gold

The older VG4D Wisconsin engines used Babbet connecting rod bearings instead of shells, for those not familiar with Babbitt rods they used brass shims to obtain the proper bearing clearances.

 

My engine is probably old enough for Babbit, I've always wanted to learn the art of applying Babbit and may one day have that opportunity.

Edited by bcgold
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bc.gold

My Wisconsin VG4D uses a Zenith carburetor that is balanced, a bit of research informs me that a balanced carburetor is intended to be fitted to an engine operating in extreme conditions.

 

How it works, as the air filter conditions change with use a normal carburetor draws in a more rich fuel mixture, poor engine performance with increased fuel use.

 

Any carburetor using a float bowel maybe modified.

 

Credits belong to Steve S

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fatory.jpg

 

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bc.gold

How to tell if you have a balanced carburetor.

 

bal.jpg

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bc.gold

Silver paint ( aluminized ) a buddy of mine would use it when reinstalling a used head gasket, paint and dry before installing he had great success with the procedure.

 

I personally have not tried it but am considering.

 

Has anyone tried it.

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bc.gold

Just figured out how they got reverse gear on the swather, the friction disk is enganged either direction only released when turning or a steering correction is needed to maintain a straight line.

 

The drum with the brake band when the brake is applied a set of planetary gears inside the drum give the swather reverse.

 

I can see a new project coming up, we could use a new water well and this reversing drum will freewheel when the friction band is released.

 

Make a nice pile driver for a cable drilling rig.

 

clutch.jpg

 

 

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ebinmaine
2 hours ago, bcgold said:

Silver paint ( aluminized ) a buddy of mine would use it when reinstalling a used head gasket, paint and dry before installing he had great success with the procedure.

 

I personally have not tried it but am considering.

 

Has anyone tried it.

Heard of it but never tried it.

 

I do know both surfaces MUST be flat/straight/true to correct angles.

 

I've never installed a cylinder head on an engine that had just been resurfaced so always used a gasket.

 

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bc.gold
5 minutes ago, ebinmaine said:

Heard of it but never tried it.

 

I do know both surfaces MUST be flat/straight/true to correct angles.

 

I've never installed a cylinder head on an engine that had just been resurfaced so always used a gasket.

 

 

He painted the used gasket to assure of a good seal.

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bc.gold

Here's a very crude percussion drilling rig, this must be a very deep well that he is drilling.

 

 

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Stormin
55 minutes ago, bcgold said:

 

He painted the used gasket to assure of a good seal.

 

I can vaguely remember my father doing that. I think it was on his Morris 8's engine.

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bc.gold

The engine is buttoned up, just need to get a new distributor cap and spark plugs these can wait until spring as my new Lister generator is now priority one.

 

Shop manual says to torque head bolts to 24 ft lbs, run engine then re-torque since the engine is not yet running I heated the cylinder heads with a hand held propane torch then letting them cool down before re-torque the head bolts for the final time.

 

Nothing worse than having piles of sheet metal laying about the shop, this way it all goes back onto the engine.

Edited by bcgold
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bc.gold
1 hour ago, bcgold said:

The engine is buttoned up, just need to get a new distributor cap and spark plugs these can wait until spring as my new Lister generator is now priority one.

 

Shop manual says to torque head bolts to 24 ft lbs, run engine then re-torque since the engine is not yet running I heated the cylinder heads with a hand held propane torch then letting them cool down before re-torque the head bolts for the final time.

 

Nothing worse than having piles of sheet metal laying about the shop, this way it all goes back onto the engine.

 

I have never tried the pre heated method before but am pleased to report that each head bolt moved another eighth of a turn after the cool down.

 

The heads were only heated as to be uncomfortable to touch with a bare hand and no where near spit sizzling hot.

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ebinmaine
19 hours ago, bcgold said:

moved another eighth of a turn

The fact that the bolts moved after you heated and cooled the cylinder head is great and it clearly shows that your method worked to some extent.

It is important to remember that the bolts extend down around the outside of the cylinder jacket and on some engines also around the intake and exhaust pockets themselves.

 

What you did definitely has some effect but I don't think I would rely on that method exclusively.

Seems possible you could increase the interval a little before your first tightening after running the engine. That's a step I definitely would not skip.

 

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bc.gold
On 9/28/2019 at 12:09 PM, bcgold said:

Silver paint ( aluminized ) a buddy of mine would use it when reinstalling a used head gasket, paint and dry before installing he had great success with the procedure.

 

I personally have not tried it but am considering.

 

Has anyone tried it.

 

An alternative to using aluminum paint.

 

copper.png

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bc.gold

Bought this hole saw to cut in holes for the boiler tubes to make that steam needed for the essential oil project, I'm impressed.

 

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bc.gold

This past week I've been busy watching multiple Utube videos on mother natures janitors, fungi we know them as mushrooms. Aside from being tasty morsels I've learned that a number of species have medicinal benefits.

 

Mycelium is grown in a petri dish from a tissue sample taken from a mushroom, cuttings taken from the mature mycelium deposited into a bag of sterile grain, after a number of days the whole bag will be inoculated.

 

This inoculated grain, millet, wheat, rye, oats or birdseed is then spread throughout  your growing medium, wood pellets, wood shavings, sawdust or straw.

 

Hardwood dowels which have been inoculated are the perfect candidate to place into dead fall or a stump left over from felling a tree for firewood. The mycelium impregnated into the dowels will thread it's way through the wood in search of nutrients, Imagine a stump that feeds you.

 

Growing mushrooms is the perfect partnership to distilling essential oils, the branch shredder can be used to chop straw and the steam boiler used to sterilize the straw. The idea is to kill off errant spores floating around in the air which may produce unwanted results.

 

Instead of building a laboratory for culture work will use a bench top sandblaster cabinet to perform work requiring a sterile environment.

 

Mycelium from tissue culture in various stages.

 

 

 

cab.png

Edited by bcgold

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bc.gold

Stump be gone,

 

Through the mycelium, a fungus absorbs nutrients from its environment. It does this in a two-stage process. First, the hyphae secrete enzymes onto or into the food source, which break down biological polymers into smaller units such as monomers. These monomers are then absorbed into the mycelium by facilitated diffusion and active transport.

 

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mycelium

 

In layman's terms this is how you grow mushrooms, you feed them an old stump.

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bc.gold

Non GMO wheat from Vern's Ag seed cleaning plant, this is what has leaked from the shaker tables onto the floor, spillage gets swept into an auger installed in the floor to be reclaimed.

 

I was gifted three pails, some chaff with a bit of dust, I'll pass this through my grain cleaner.

 

I'll be doing about a dozen quart canning jars, each jar filled two thirds full. There will be plenty for my own used then some to gift friends. The grain is first soaked in water overnight, jars filled, lid set loosely then pressure cooked for about an hour, once the gran has cooled down it can be inoculated. Close lid tightly, make sure there's a breather hole and this is filled with upholstery batting it looks like cotton.

Set your jars in a dark room then in a couple of weeks you'll see that the mycelium has fully grown within the grain kernels. This is used to inoculate your sterilized wood chips, sawdust or straw.

 

I suggest watching a few utube videos growing mushrooms in a bucket. to get a better grasp on growing your own mushrooms.

 

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g1.png

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bc.gold

Cleaning out the shop to turn it into a mushroom barn, the walls a ceiling will get an old fashion whitewash.

 

Whitewash made from Lime has some antibacterial properties, commonly used on chicken coops and barns used to house other types of livestock.

 

Whitewash has been around for well over a century and is a simple means to spruce up your coop or barn while benefiting from its ability to help keep bugs from using the wood surfaces to breed.  

 

While many “old timers” remember whitewashing barns, coops, and tree trunks, finding much information on the subject is a bit complicated.  It would appear that this is one of those cases where it was such common knowledge 50 years ago that no one bothered to really cover the subject well.

 

https://www.theprairiehomestead.com/2014/07/whitewash-recipe-barn-coop.html

 

Edited by bcgold

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Darb1964

The stump needs to be hard wood also?

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bc.gold
18 minutes ago, Darb1964 said:

The stump needs to be hard wood also?

Table of Hard and Softwood trees.

Acacia Noncommercial  Hard Hardwood
Florida Maple Hard Maple Hard Hardwood 
Boxelder   Other Soft Hardwoods  Soft Hardwood 
Black Maple  Hard Maple  Hard Hardwood 
Striped Maple Noncommercial  Soft Hardwood
Red Maple Soft Maple Soft Hardwood
Silver Maple Soft Maple Soft Hardwood
Sugar Maple Hard Maple Hard Hardwood
Mountain Maple Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Rocky Mountain Maple Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Bigtooth Maple Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Buckeye, Horsechestnut Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Ohio Buckeye Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Yellow Buckeye Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Buckeye (Other) Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Ailanthus Noncommercial Soft Hardwood
Serviceberry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Pawpaw Noncommercial Soft Hardwood
Birch Sp. Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Yellow Birch Yellow Birch Hard Hardwood
Sweet Birch Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
River Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Water Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Paper Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Gray Birch Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Chittamwood Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
American Hornbeam Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Hickory Sp. Hickory Hard Hardwood
Water Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
Bitternut Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
Pignut Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
Pecan Hickory Hard Hardwood
Shellbark Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
Shagbark Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
Black Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
Mockernut Hickory Hickory Hard Hardwood
American Chestnut Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Allegheny Chinkapin Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Ozark Chinkapin Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Chinkapin Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Catalpa Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Southern Catalpa Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Northern Catalpa Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Hackberry Sp. Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Sugarberry Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Hackberry Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Eastern Redbud Noncommercial Soft Hardwood
Curlleaf Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
True Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Hairy Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Birchleaf Mountain-Mahogany Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Littleleaf Mountain-Mahogany   Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Flowering Dogwood Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Hawthorn Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Common Persimmon Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
American Beech Beech Hard Hardwood
Ash Ash Hard Hardwood
White Ash Ash Soft Hardwood
Black Ash Ash Hard Hardwood
Green Ash Ash Soft Hardwood
Pumpkin Ash Ash Soft Hardwood
Blue Ash Ash Hard Hardwood
Waterlocust Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Honeylocust Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Loblolly-Bay Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Kentucky Coffeetree Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Silverbell Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
American Holly Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Butternut Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Black Walnut Black Walnut Hard Hardwood
Sweetgum Sweetgum Soft Hardwood
Yellow-Poplar Yellow-Poplar Soft Hardwood
Osage-Orange Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Magnolia Sp. Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Cucumbertree Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Southern Magnolia Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Sweetbay Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Bigleaf Magnolia Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Apple Sp Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Mulberry Sp. Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
White Mulberry Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Red Mulberry Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Water Tupelo Tupelo And Black Gum Soft Hardwood
Ogeechee Tupelo Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Blackgum Tupelo And Black Gum Soft Hardwood
Swamp Tupelo Tupelo And Black Gum Soft Hardwood
Eastern Hophornbeam Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Sourwood Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Paulownia, Empress Tree Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Redbay Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Sycamore Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Cottonwood Sp. Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Balsam Poplar Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Eastern Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Bigtooth Aspen Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Swamp Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Plains Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Quaking Aspen Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Black Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Fremont  Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Silver Poplar Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Narrowleaf Cottonwood Cottonwood And Aspen Soft Hardwood
Cherry, Plum Spp. Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Pin Cherry Noncommercial Soft Hardwood
Black Cherry Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Chokecherry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Bitter Cherry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Plums, Cherries (Other) Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Canada Plum Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Wild Plum Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Oak Deciduous Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
White Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Arizona White Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Swamp White Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Scarlet Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Durand Oak Select White Oak Hard Hardwood
Northern Pin Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Emory Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Southern Red Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Cherrybark Oak Select Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Gambel Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Bear Oak, Scrub Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Shingle Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Turkey Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Laurel Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Overcup Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Bur Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Blackjack Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Swamp Chestnut Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Chinkapin Oak Select White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Water Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Nuttall Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Mexican Blue Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Pin Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Willow Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Chestnut Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Northern Red Oak Select Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Shumard Oak Select Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Post Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Delta Post Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Black Oak Other Red Oaks Hard Hardwood
Live Oak Other White Oaks Hard Hardwood
Bluejack Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Silverleaf Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Oak � Evergreen Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Scrub Oak Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Black Locust Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
New Mexico Locust Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Willow Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Peachleaf Willow Noncommercial Soft Hardwood
Black Willow Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Diamond Willow Noncommercial Soft Hardwood
Chinese Tallowtree Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Sassafras Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
American Mountain-Ash Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
European Mountain-Ash Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Basswood Basswood Soft Hardwood
American Basswood Basswood Soft Hardwood
White Basswood Basswood Soft Hardwood
Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Winged Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
American Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Cedar Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Siberian Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Slippery Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
September Elm Other Soft Hardwoods Soft Hardwood
Rock Elm Other Hard Hardwoods Hard Hardwood
Tung-Oil Tree Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Sparkleberry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Chinaberry Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Water-Elm Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Smoketree Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Mesquite Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Tesota(Arizona Ironwood) Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Unknown Or Not Listed Noncommercial Hard Hardwood
Edited by bcgold

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