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1977walleyeguy

Timing light recommendation

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953 nut

No problem, none of us were born knowing this stuff, we learned it from others. Clockwise from the flywheel side.

 

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1977walleyeguy
36 minutes ago, 953 nut said:

No problem, none of us were born knowing this stuff, we learned it from others. Clockwise from the flywheel side.

 

So true!

my younger self might not agreed with that lol

thanks for the verification.

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Digger 66
On 8/7/2019 at 1:34 PM, 1977walleyeguy said:

 

Do any of you have a particular brand or recommendation for a timing light to use when i get to the point that i am checking and possibly setting the points on this K241?

Its not something i currently own and will add to the toolbox.

 

 

 

 

I have an old Sun timing light that hasn't seen the light of day in probably 30 years .

I bet it still works though .

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1977walleyeguy
On 8/8/2019 at 9:22 PM, 953 nut said:

:WRS:

All Kohler K-241 engines built after 1965 were equipped with a compression release cam shaft that will slightly open the exhaust valve as it approached TDC on the compression stroke at low RPMs. As a result you will not get a good compression reading. A leak-down test is the best method of determining the engine's condition.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test

Update : 8-13-2019

I received my leak down test set yesterday and had a chance to test the cylinder tonight.

bad news - I have air leaking thru the carb , which can only mean the intake valve isn’t right in some manor.

while leaking down I rotated the flywheel full revs and the leak got less at some points and more when it should of been open.

so it looks like I need to dig into the valves....

 

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WHX??

Might not be a big as deal as you think Walleye but does mean you should pull the head and check things out. Might be a a sticking valve or a piece of carbon holding the intake valve open or somthing like that.. Head gaskets are cheap yet so that's where I would be headed. Sides it is always wise sometime to just pull the head for drill and check the bore.  Wouldn't hurt to pull the breather cover off and and have a peek in there at the springs/keepers either . Keep us posted.

Edited by WHX24
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pfrederi

Also check the clearance between the valve stem and the tappet. (Behind the breather cover)  The specification is in the service manual and in your engine they are adjustable.

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1977walleyeguy

Any recommendations for valve spring compression tool on this k241?

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pfrederi

conpressor.jpg

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1977walleyeguy

here is the other option i came across

which is better?

2019-08-14_12-34-12.jpg

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WHX??

This is the one I got Walleye.. kind of awkward to use but once you get the hang of it. Hobbyist quality too but beats two screwdrivers a load of French words.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/8-Universal-Adjustable-Valve-Spring-Compressor-Automotive-Engine-Repair-Tool/231614807887?hash=item35ed517f4f:g:gDEAAOSws6dcU4MV

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1977walleyeguy

Update : 8-14-2019

pulled the head and breather - lots of carbon on the surfaces , but nothing scary.

i can physically see that the intake valve isn’t seated all the way, but I can also see that the adjustment of the intake is higher (see breather photo) is higher than that of the exhaust valve.

perhaps it worked up over time?

bore doesn’t look bad for a 77 machine in my opinion but I’m a novice at this.

FF72D04A-8BFA-4FC6-995E-2B1632C49A39.jpeg

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1977walleyeguy

01860998-CB4D-49DD-AB14-44C285B3D1BF.jpeg

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1977walleyeguy

708031E1-D351-476D-A2C3-CFA9EAEC644B.jpeg

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1977walleyeguy

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1977walleyeguy

9A32C235-7282-4EC2-9298-1D8D4CE4162E.jpeg

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1977walleyeguy

Measurements : tappet to valves at TDC

exhaust .020 clearance between

intake .004 (.005 is snug) clearance between.

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1977walleyeguy

Best method to decarbonize ?

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