Timing light recommendation

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Hello good people of redsquare,

I would like to start off by saying, what an amazing forum and data base that has been built here.

the wealth of knowledge and experience that can be obtained here is just astonishing and has been very helpful to me thus far.

So to all of you i say thank you!

 

My story begins with a girlfriend ( fiancee now) and her dad's beloved 1977 B-100. (model # 71-10K801, ser#12047  , I know you all wanted to know lol)

 

She mentions to me that she had a riding mower , i said: where? i didn't see it in the barn.

She then proceeds to tell me, well i had issues (battery going dead she said) and took it too a friends because her friends husband races lawn mowers and is a backyard mechanic.

I said ok, so how long has it been there and when will he be done you think.....well its been there a couple of years now..............

SO - i stepped in and now the B-100 is back home in the barn and ready for me to "untinker" the tinkering lol.

the guy replaced:

starter, starter sol.,coil,condenser, carb,fuel pump.......

He has the wiring incorrect and in 10 mins of me reviewing it with electrical prints i retrieved from here, discovered that the ignition switch is the wrong one and its faulty to begin with.

hope you all enjoyed the little intro and recap.

onto my question.

Do any of you have a particular brand or recommendation for a timing light to use when i get to the point that i am checking and possibly setting the points on this K241?

Its not something i currently own and will add to the toolbox.

 

thank you

[JAinVA 4,636]

Timing on the K series Kohlers is controlled by point gap. If you don't have a timing light you really don't have to use one. Set the points gap at 0.020 thousands.This will get you up and running and allow you some time before need to look at a timing light.Clean the points with 400/600 grit sand paper if the points have been mounted for any length of time.Welcome to RedSquare, Luck JAinVA

Edited August 7, 2019 by JAinVA

[WHX?? 51,330]

 Walleye

As JA said set them at .020 and should get you running. Some of my engines like .018 some like .022...play with it to find the sweet spot.  I use a points file and dollar bill to clean. You can also static time. Procedure here.

Kohler static_timing.pdf

[formariz 12,016]

Here is the exact method I use . You get the precise timing for a particular engine which many times is not exactly what is specified.

 

[oliver2-44 10,564]

Multimeter method works GGGreat!

[953 nut 59,194]

Any inductive timing light will be fine for a Kohler engine. They can be found in pawn shops and flea markets for $10.00.

As stated above the static timing method works well too. You may need to remove the flywheel cover and clean up and paint the "SP" mark on the flywheel to be able to see it clearly.

The PDF Jim posted for static timing of the later model engines calls for an Ohm Meter to be used, I prefer a 12 Volt Test Light. The light will be connected between the battery “+” terminal and the lead that connects the points to the coil (disconnected from the coil). When the points are closed the light will be on, the moment the points open the light will go off. You don’t have to be focused on it like you would on a meter. With the test light situated near the sight hole for the flywheel (spark plug out so the engine will turn with ease), turn the flywheel slowly by hand in the clockwise direction (counter-clockwise if on the PTO end) until the moment the light goes out. If the “SP” mark is centered in the hole you are done, if not you have a little work to do. This was the point where extending the lines to the outside came in handy. If the points are opening too late, they need to be opened further, if it occurs too early they need to be closed up some. Make gradual adjustments until the “SP” mark on the flywheel is centered in the sight hole at the moment the light goes out. Now tighten the screw securely and turn the engine over several revolutions to be sure the points are consistently opening at the proper moment.

[stevasaurus 23,219]

I was going to tell you all of that, but I got in here too late.    Sooo, I will just say, "Welcome to Red Square" .    You do know we like pictures??

   I also think that this thread would be better served in the engine section...since these guys have probably talked you out of a timing light.

[gwest_ca-(File Mod) 11,388]

If the engine runs and you can't see the timing marks stick a wooden dowel in the hole and let it rub on the flat where the marks are. The dowel will polish the rust on the surface and leave the indented timing marks untouched making them easy to spot.

 

Garry

[RandyLittrell 3,894]

Lots of good info in this thread!! 

 

 

 

 

 

Randy

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Thank you all for the welcome and all the advice.

No reason to have another piece of equipment if i do not have too.

I'll make sure to get some pictures posted oh the B-100!

[WHX?? 51,330]

Really good tip ther Garry. I am in the habit if I have tins off for maintenance is to find them, clean them and high light them with white paint.

[Pullstart 65,701]

 walleye!  I pretty much do what they said up there...   it  anyway!

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Question for the team here,

I was reviewing the K241 manual and i could not find reference to what engine compression should be for this K241.

As i begin going through this B-100, one of the things im going to check is engine compression to she where the ol' girl stands and would like a reference to compare against.

 

thank you!

[953 nut 59,194]

3 hours ago, 1977walleyeguy said:

engine compression should be for this K241.

All Kohler K-241 engines built after 1965 were equipped with a compression release cam shaft that will slightly open the exhaust valve as it approached TDC on the compression stroke at low RPMs. As a result you will not get a good compression reading. A leak-down test is the best method of determining the engine's condition.

https://mobiloil.com/en/article/car-maintenance/car-maintenance-archive/how-to-do-a-leakdown-test

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Thanks for the info. 953 Nut, cylinder leakage tester kit ordered!

[1977walleyeguy 18]

As promised , a couple pictures of the B-100

 

Edited August 10, 2019 by 1977walleyeguy

[clueless 3,181]

That horse is damn near new , welcome aboard.

[953 nut 59,194]

1 hour ago, 1977walleyeguy said:

couple pictures of the B-100

                                       You may want to relocate the gas tank!           

[ebinmaine 71,789]

3 hours ago, clueless said:

That horse is damn near new , welcome aboard.

 

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Good eye, yeah I moved it so I could expose all the wiring.

ocd question.

should the positive side of the ignition coil face inwards towards the carb or outbound forwards the capacitor?

second ocd question - the hot wire from the ignition switch (black wire) runs across the top of the motor and secured in place by two clips, is this correct?

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Good thing I’m ocd ....

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Initial gap check on points as I received it, .035.

id be surprised if it even remotely ran decent with everything I have read on this ignition system setup.

[ebinmaine 71,789]

57 minutes ago, 1977walleyeguy said:

 

Nice catch.

That would run all kinds of hot...

[953 nut 59,194]

1 hour ago, 1977walleyeguy said:

Initial gap check on points as I received it, .035.

id be surprised if it even remotely ran decent with everything I have read on this ignition system setup.

You may want to read this post on points setting.

 

2 hours ago, 1977walleyeguy said:

Good thing I’m ocd .

Great catch!                    While the covers are off you can use a bottle brush to clean between all the cooling fins.

[1977walleyeguy 18]

Sorry to be a pain , dumb question, 

from flywheel side

clockwise rotation or counter clockwise rotation is correct?