Mudrig150 315 #26 Posted July 7, 2019 UGH... As it turns out, this motor does NOT have 800-900 hours on it like I thought... It has 1700. The piston slap is awful at the bottom of the piston strokes and the rings are basically gone. Oil rings are both stuck. Time for a rebuild... Or not. Guess having no money is a reason to just bore the jugs and replace the pistons? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #27 Posted July 8, 2019 23 hours ago, Mudrig150 said: UGH... As it turns out, this motor does NOT have 800-900 hours on it like I thought... It has 1700. The piston slap is awful at the bottom of the piston strokes and the rings are basically gone. Oil rings are both stuck. Time for a rebuild... Or not. Guess having no money is a reason to just bore the jugs and replace the pistons? Have you mic'd the bore to see what it's at? It might take a re-ring and run for a long time.. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
953 nut 59,232 #28 Posted July 8, 2019 That cylinder wall will eat up a set of rings in no time. You will be throwing money down the drain if you don't do it right the fist time. Have both cylinders machined and use new pistons and rings. Have the crank measured bu a professional while you are at it. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
peter lena 9,187 #29 Posted July 8, 2019 mudrig150, quite the recovery on that, in addition to slowly bringing this back to life, i would recommend adding RISLONE ENGINE TREATMENT to your oil during your run in time, its vital that you slowly and steadily run this engine back to life. i found a number of oil changes after a thorough heat cycle really gets out the crud and typical milky gunk left by incorrect oils. i use rotella oil for flat tappet cams and it does a great job. you won,t suddenly have everything going well , it takes time, stay at it , i did a lot of road miles on my recovery , stopping to adjust and improve , also heating up oils for flushing. good luck with it , pete Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 315 #30 Posted July 8, 2019 So after working on the other side and having to turn the engine over multiple times, the rings have apparently worn the rest of the rust out of the cylinder wall. The cylinder is pretty nice and smooth now. Hone was unable to remove it, but I guess the rings seat better then the hone so they were able to get it out. Cylinder is still pretty nice and round, too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 315 #31 Posted July 8, 2019 4 hours ago, peter lena said: mudrig150, quite the recovery on that, in addition to slowly bringing this back to life, i would recommend adding RISLONE ENGINE TREATMENT to your oil during your run in time, its vital that you slowly and steadily run this engine back to life. i found a number of oil changes after a thorough heat cycle really gets out the crud and typical milky gunk left by incorrect oils. i use rotella oil for flat tappet cams and it does a great job. you won,t suddenly have everything going well , it takes time, stay at it , i did a lot of road miles on my recovery , stopping to adjust and improve , also heating up oils for flushing. good luck with it , pete Got it. 5 hours ago, 953 nut said: That cylinder wall will eat up a set of rings in no time. You will be throwing money down the drain if you don't do it right the fist time. Have both cylinders machined and use new pistons and rings. Have the crank measured bu a professional while you are at it. The rings wore the rust off the cylinder walls. It's not rough rust, just a smooth raised part that only added a bit to the bore. 12 hours ago, ZXT said: Have you mic'd the bore to see what it's at? It might take a re-ring and run for a long time.. I took a basic measurement and I got 1.122 in. Pretty dang close, eh? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ZXT 2,401 #32 Posted July 8, 2019 7 hours ago, Mudrig150 said: Got it. The rings wore the rust off the cylinder walls. It's not rough rust, just a smooth raised part that only added a bit to the bore. I took a basic measurement and I got 1.122 in. Pretty dang close, eh? I wouldn't say so... That's 2" shy of what it should've been new! What are you measuring with? If it's actually 3.122, I wouldn't be concerned, assuming you're measuring somewhere down in the bore rather than right at the top where there will be no wear. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mudrig150 315 #33 Posted July 11, 2019 I was measuring with a digital caliper to get a basic size measurement. Measured halfway down the bore. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
