Jump to content
Jack45

Help! 1975 C160 Solenoid

Recommended Posts

Jack45

The solenoid went out on my 1975 C160. What is the quickest way to get my machine back up and running? I have a hundred kids coming to my farm at the end of the week and I was going to give tractor rides.

 

Thank you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ZXT

Best way would be to run to a parts store and buy a new solenoid. If you can't find one that you can make work, you can either build a harness with a push button switch to bypass the solenoid, or just jump across the solenoid with a piece of wire. Touch across the battery lead to the starter lead. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

I will hit auto part store tomorrow and see if I get lucky there.  Is there any chance of long term damage by jumping across solenoid? Would hate to do any damage. Engine was rebuilt not too many hours ago.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ZXT

Zero chance of hurting anything at all. 

 

You might not find one for a WH specifically at an auto parts store, but a starter solenoid is a starter solenoid. Many have been changed to a Ford style solenoid, including mine. Looks like an Advance Auto in Mosinee will have a Ford solenoid that'll work. If you go there, tell them you want a Starter solenoid for a 65 Mustang with a 289. For about $14 you should be back in business. Part #84017

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
4 hours ago, ZXT said:

For about $14 you should be back in business. Part #84017

:text-yeahthat:

@Jack45 don't change the switch.

A C160 can have over 100 amps draw when starting.

That's why there's a solenoid.

Any old 3 or 4 post solenoid should work fine.

A lot of big box home repair stores sell them as well.

Best bet is to bring yours with you so as to ensure the bracket size is a good match.

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Racinbob

The Ford solenoid will be fine. I use them all the time. Keep this in mine though. It has two small terminals marked 'S' and 'I'. Connect the ignition switch wire to the 'S' terminal. Do not connect anything to the 'I' terminal. That's a bypass that Ford used to bypass the resistor when cranking. The ground is made through the mounting bracket so make sure it is grounded to the engine properly. :)

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
edgro

Also be aware that class 8 trucks (Freightliner) use a similar looking solenoid, also referred to as a "mag switch" where the second terminal is the ground circuit for the first terminal. Be sure of what you have!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

Ya'll are awesome! The wheel horse is my work vehicle on my small farm and having it down for more than a day or two is not good in the Spring.  Is this a common malfunction? Should I buy two and keep an extra on hand.

 

I will hit auto parts store after lunch.  I have meat chicks waiting in town for me too.

 

Thanks again!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
7 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

Ya'll are awesome! The wheel horse is my work vehicle on my small farm and having it down for more than a day or two is not good in the Spring.  Is this a common malfunction? Should I buy two and keep an extra on hand.

 

I will hit auto parts store after lunch.  I have meat chicks waiting in town for me too.

 

Thanks again!

Not super common, no. same basic failure rate as most any other electric part.

of course you know most of us five-year-olds are going to want to see lots of pictures of that rig.

Might as well take some pictures of the chickens too.

:handgestures-thumbupright:

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
pfrederi

Either one of these will work also.  Lowes has virtually same stuff.

 

 

s1.JPG

s2.JPG

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
bmiller0457
Posted (edited)

@Jack45 I buy mine from Amazon, It's here in 2 days.

This is the one use on my 16hp Kohler

1705791745_Stens435-103.JPG.c98ef47cef06105919d4cb262ec9b061.JPG

Edited by bmiller0457
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ZXT

I’d go for the one you can get today - a few bucks more expensive but if that doesn’t turn out to be the problem, you’ll still have time to diagnose what the problem actually is. How do you know the solenoid is actually bad?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

Neighbor helped me diagnose it.  I took the battery out to try out in a different lawnmower.  When I put it back in C-160, it started a couple of times but had to jump it. I figured maybe bad battery. Later I tried again and it wouldn't do anything when key was turned. I got out the multimeter and battery was fine (12.4 volts).  Ran the meter everywhere and had a charge everywhere. My neighbor came over and jumped straight to solenoid and the starter then cranked and he said it was the solenoid. I am running out to buy it now and will give update once I get the new one installed. Ever since a i bought it, it would occasionally not start.  I had to wiggle the wires underneath a little and that got it to start. It could still be something in wire harness but I am hoping this fixes it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
wallfish
Posted (edited)
35 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

It could still be something in wire harness but I am hoping this fixes it

Like a safety switch or corroded connections.

 

Edited by wallfish
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Razorback

My C160 had an intermittent no-crank problem. Diagnosed it down to the safety switch on the PTO lever. Actually, the shaft on that lever needed some adjustment to ensure that the safety switch got pressed like it should.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

New solenoid didn't fix problem. I am not seeing a safety switch or any wire going to the PTO. Could it be that regulator? How often do they go out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
2 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

New solenoid didn't fix problem. I am not seeing a safety switch or any wire going to the PTO. Could it be that regulator? How often do they go out?

Definitely SHOULD BE a switch at the PTO.

Can you post some pics so we can see what's cookin?

 

 

It's also possible you have something as simple as a bad ground.

 

Do you have a test light or DVOM?

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
953 nut
10 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

Could it be that regulator?

NO

421926433_1electrical.jpg.b601f8a23b48cbcd995e8d77e20588c9.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
oldredrider

Check the clutch pedal safety switch and it's connections. On the frame at the pedal.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

I had the model date wrong this is a 1976 C-160 Automatic. Not sure how much that matters.

 

I cleaned all the connectors I could get to.  I don't see any PTO wiring anywhere. I have a wiring diagram and I don't see any PTO interlock switch anywhere on my model. 

 

This is a hydro-static transmission so the brake pedal doesn't actually do anything that I can tell.

 

I checked for a safety wire on seat and there isn't one there. My lights don't work either although they did last year when I first got it. I never really cared enough to look. I did check the fuse (for lights) and it looks fine but I didn't replace it.

 

I have a voltmeter and tried testing between different points and I think the current is ok there. 

 

Any other ideas? Thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

I ran a cord from positive on battery to solenoid and it cranked over really good but would not start. Switch was turned on.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ZXT

Could be the ignition switch. See if you have voltage at the coil with the key in the run position. 

 

Could be a safety switch as well. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

Is there a way to test if it is ignition switch?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
ebinmaine
27 minutes ago, Jack45 said:

Is there a way to test if it is ignition switch?

Luckily for you, and the rest of us as well, those machines are very easy to work on.

 

That is also assuming that a previous owner has not bungled up something in the past.

 

Each individual component can normally be isolated and tested.

 

Forgive me if you already answered this because I don't remember but do you have a DVOM or test light?

 

Using the appropriate schematic diagram it's pretty easy to run through a battery of tests to see where your issue lies.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Jack45

What is the difference between a DVOM/Test light and a volt meter? Just testing for connection right?

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.


×
×
  • Create New...